Cutlass-bearing removal - locating grub screws in P-Bracket?

[Robert Wilson]

Where should I look for them?
Yet another job for engine re-fit - replacing cutlass-bearing, shaft and propeller.
In this PBO article:-

http://www.pbo.co.uk/practical-projects/diy-cutless-bearing-extractor-26496

Graham Swetman mentions removing the grub screws. My P-bracket looks almost like the one shown. I don't want to grind away at it looking in the wrong place; or if the grubs crews aren't there at all!

As usual, all advice/warnings much appreciated - even if not welcome

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Best option may be to use a wire brush in a drill to remove the AF which should expose the head of the grub screw.

 

[Robert Wilson]

Sound thinking.
I just hope they haven't been counter-sunk and epoxied in (as with the retaining screws of the skeg/rudder shoe :disgust

 

[PetiteFleur]

As pethb says, carefully remove any A/F on the P bracket, grub screw is usually located in the centre on one side. Once located fully clean out the hex hole and use a good quality hex wrench to remove the screw. If impossible to remove, you'll have to drill it out and either retap the next size up or better still drill and retap a thread in the opposite side. Don't use any Loctite or similar locking fluid.

 

[Pete7]

Robert, sadly all cutlass bearings are not made equal. I was disappointed that the standard chandlers bearing only lasted 4 years before there was several mm of play. A thread on the Moody Owners Association explained that standard cutlass bearings supplied by the likes of Vetus have a moulded liner. Slightly more expensive are bearings from people like Countrose Bearings who mould then machine the bearing liner to size. They also offer several different linings.

The new Countrose Bearing has only been in for 6 months so too early to say if the better quality has made a difference. However, at £45 for the bearing compared to the cost of lifting out wasn't worth worrying about. The are not really set up for retail customers so the payment method is a little odd, but it all worked and arrived promptly. You get a quote via e mail and then ring them up and pay over the phone with the reference number etc.

http://www.countrose.com/content/lining_material.asp

Oh, the one other thing we found is my P bracket has a lip on the forward end meaning the amount of cutlass bearing material you have available to press against or hit with a big hammer is reduced.

 

[Robert Wilson]

Robert, sadly all cutlass bearings are not made equal. I was disappointed that the standard chandlers bearing only lasted 4 years before there was several mm of play. A thread on the Moody Owners Association explained that standard cutlass bearings supplied by the likes of Vetus have a moulded liner. Slightly more expensive are bearings from people like Countrose Bearings who mould then machine the bearing liner to size. They also offer several different linings.

The new Countrose Bearing has only been in for 6 months so too early to say if the better quality has made a difference. However, at £45 for the bearing compared to the cost of lifting out wasn't worth worrying about. The are not really set up for retail customers so the payment method is a little odd, but it all worked and arrived promptly. You get a quote via e mail and then ring them up and pay over the phone with the reference number etc.

http://www.countrose.com/content/lining_material.asp

Oh, the one other thing we found is my P bracket has a lip on the forward end meaning the amount of cutlass bearing material you have available to press against or hit with a big hammer is reduced.

Thank you.
At least with Khamsin out of the water already I don't need to cost-in the lift-out.
I note your comment regarding the "lip" on the forward face of the P-Bracket.

Why, oh why, can't boats be simple?

 

[vyv_cox]

There are several different types of retaining screws. Some are Allen type, a hexagonal socket, whereas others are a countersunk screw with a semi-domed head. Usually three, all on the same side. I would not use a power drill as you may damage the heads of the countersunk type, which in my experience have a straight slot, not a cross-head, drive. Make sure you scrape all the paint out of the slot before trying to unscrew.

 

[Neil_Y]

Sadly as Pete says they are not all equal. If it is one of ours (Composite and yellow/brown in colour not rubber) then it is likely it will be bedded on epoxy with no grub screws. To remove you can heat the bearing carrier to 80-90C and the epoxy will soften, alternatively the epoxy will crack away with a sharp chisel from the carrier as the epoxy is only a thin layer.

 

[Robert Wilson]

I have no idea what material is mine. I haven't looked yet, and won't be doing so until the engine comes out, along with gearbox, shaft and propeller.

But thanks for the pic and advice.