Cutlass bearing housing

john m

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I have just reffited the cutlass bairing housing on my aquastar 38 it was very tight to get on the problem I have is the 2 bolts that stop it spinning don’t seem to be going in to anything , should I be filling these holes with epoxy then insert screws or just fill with silicon then insert the screws or should I be doing something different I have sealed it all with ct1 silicone
 
If your bearings were in as tightly as mine !!!!! , I eventually gave up and press ganged a nearbye strong young man to thump them to gettem flush in the P bracket.
Used a blimming great big lump hammer and a hard wood drift.
Putting in the tiny pointy alan screw afterward was academic ,going to make no difference at all to stop them rotating.

Course the real fun the real fun is getting them out. ?Ask anybody who has done it.
 
The housing should have two tapped holes with grub screws. Once the new bearing is in the drill through the housing holes into the bearing shell a small amount so the grub screws can gain purchase, The grub screws should then be secured with Loctite.
 
I have just reffited the cutlass bairing housing on my aquastar 38 it was very tight to get on the problem I have is the 2 bolts that stop it spinning don’t seem to be going in to anything , should I be filling these holes with epoxy then insert screws or just fill with silicon then insert the screws or should I be doing something different I have sealed it all with ct1 silicone
Do you mean these fasteners? There should be nuts or a captive thread in there for the fasteners to screw into.
cutlass.jpg
 
Tricky, especially the lower bolt. I had this problem on my first Mobo - this is how I resolved the issue ...

1 With the shaft removed I drilled the hole out to 12 mm. 10mm is not strong enough. I then inserted an M12 bolt long enough to stick out of the hole and bracket plus 4 x the nut thickness. I had also drilled a small hole in the end of the bolt to a depth of ~ 12mm and tapped this M5.

2 The bolt's head and first few inches of thread below the head was liberally smothered in SIka 291 prior to insertion, I then pushed it all the way home from the inside, although once it is through the hole it can be gently drawn through. If access is difficult tie some string to the M5 stud and use this to gently pull the bolt through and into position. Two person job - one outside gently tugging the other inside gently guiding.

3 Repeat for the upper hole

4 Insert a short M5 stud into the end of the bolt, then position the bearing housing into place and over the bolts. The M5 studs give you something to hold onto as the housing pushes into place whilst keeping the bolts in their correct position.

5 Affix a washer and first nut, and gently nip up, but do not pull hard.

6 Leave it a week for the sika to cure then pull up moderatly hard to press into the formed sika gasket. Affix a second nut and lock nut this against the first.

7 The M5 stud can be removed and if you wish you can cut back the bolt flush with the outer nut.

Worked for me.
 

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