SAWDOC
Well-Known Member
Is there anything that can be done with crazed cabin windows other than replacement of the perspex and rubber? They are quite opaque and difficult to see through.
Crazed windows
- Thread starter SAWDOC
- Start date
Achillesheel
Well-Known Member
...and as a supplementary, is the strength compromised?
TopDonkey
Well-Known Member
You can flame polish it, i have done it before, and out of the 4 windows i tried it on, 2 were perfect, almost like new afterwards, 1 was a bit kinked and slightly distorted, and the other one i accidentally put my finger through whilst it was hot !, if you try it, you use a blowlamp about 3-6 inches away, never stop, always keep it moving and your just trying to melt the surface so that it reforms without melting it so much that it collapses
But be ready with some duct tape if you do try it as theres a high chance you will be needing it !!
But be ready with some duct tape if you do try it as theres a high chance you will be needing it !!
bazobeleza
Well-Known Member
if you can't see through them, they're compromised, I've just replaced mine with new acrylic, the old ones were only slightly crazed but I thought they were strong, until I removed them and the shattered very easily, they certainly woudnt have help up againgst solid water, a good thump was all that was needed!
the good news is I was able to re-use the rubbers and it only took about 15-30 minutes to cut the new perspex using a 5" grinder with thin blade and replace the windows. I used the old widows, taped up, as a template.
the good news is I was able to re-use the rubbers and it only took about 15-30 minutes to cut the new perspex using a 5" grinder with thin blade and replace the windows. I used the old widows, taped up, as a template.
PetiteFleur
Well-Known Member
When I replaced my crazed windows a few years back, I was surprised at how strong the old windows were - it took a club hammer with the window clamped in an engineers vise before I managed to break them. I suspect they were original, about 28yrs old.
Boomshanka
Well-Known Member
You might want to try polishing with Brasso and soft cloth on one window to see if it makes an acceptable difference. Before you remove the old ones, see if they are curved at all (ie. not flat)... if they need moulding (slow heat in an oven) then prepare yourself for the price
It seems the tricky jobs end up here: http://www.sunlightplastics.co.uk/
I visited this guy when I needed the window rubbers replacing and he was very helpful indeed: http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/ (no connection, just happy with the service/product). If you do replace the windows/rubber, it's worth forking out a tenner for the proper fitting tool!
It seems the tricky jobs end up here: http://www.sunlightplastics.co.uk/
I visited this guy when I needed the window rubbers replacing and he was very helpful indeed: http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/ (no connection, just happy with the service/product). If you do replace the windows/rubber, it's worth forking out a tenner for the proper fitting tool!
SAWDOC
Well-Known Member
To the best of my knowledge strength is not compromised - the windows are long and low if you know what I mean. Both windows and rubber are over 30 years old. Is it realistic to consider re-use of these rubbers or will they have lost all flexibility? My main concern is the 4 main cabin windows where visibility might be a (safety) issue.
ronmarson
Well-Known Member
SAWDOC,
if you do decide to replace them let me know where you are getting the Acrylic from as I have been trying unsuccessfully to find a local supplier.
Capt. RoN
if you do decide to replace them let me know where you are getting the Acrylic from as I have been trying unsuccessfully to find a local supplier.
Capt. RoN
Spyro
Well-Known Member
npf1
Well-Known Member
anyone know the approx cost per hatch of having the acrylic professionally replaced?
Thanks
Thanks
Nostrodamus
Well-Known Member
I remember someone putting down that you should try cleaning them with toothpaste, then brasso followed by a polish.
Don't know if it works though.
Don't know if it works though.
MoodySabre
Well-Known Member
There's a guy near me who does Lewmar hatches as a sideline - about £90 each with new O-rings in the handles. Excellent job. I spoke to Houdini at the boat show and they said it wasn't financially worth regalzing hatches and you might a well buy a whole new hatch. Yer
GrahamM376
Well-Known Member
There's a guy near me who does Lewmar hatches as a sideline - about £90 each with new O-rings in the handles. Excellent job. I spoke to Houdini at the boat show and they said it wasn't financially worth regalzing hatches and you might a well buy a whole new hatch. Yer
Cost me around £20 DIY to reglaze Lewmar 30, including new rubber, O rings and sealant.
snowleopard
Well-Known Member
There's a guy near me who does Lewmar hatches as a sideline - about £90 each with new O-rings in the handles. Excellent job. I spoke to Houdini at the boat show and they said it wasn't financially worth regalzing hatches and you might a well buy a whole new hatch. Yer
I'd be grateful for details of both of these. Some of my Lewmar hatches are very badly crazed. Strange really as they were installed at the same time as all my surface-mounted acrylic windows that have shown no sign of crazing at all (12 years old). I bought the hatches at a discount as old stock but they were still in their boxes so shouldn't have started being affected by UV until installed.
tudorsailor
Well-Known Member
I too would like these details for my 10 year old Lewmar hatches are all crazed
Thanks
TudorSailor
GrahamM376
Well-Known Member
If your seal rubber is in good nick, you should be able to get away without replacing it.
Bought new rubber and O rings from http://www.seaclear.co.uk/ I already had some weatherseal tape. There are different sizes of rubber for different hatch sizes. Used an Arbo mastic, far cheaper than Siko.
Simple job to do, cut around the existing perspex with Stanley Knife, against the frame, and it will push out. Take to local stockist to be used as template. Clean off the old sealant and fit the new rubber - this can be a bit tricky and may need a spot or two of superglue on corners as it often flips off when stretched around the radius. Run weatherseal tape around the top of the rubber (keeps mastic off it) bed new perspex in, place a weight on it and leave for a couple of days before fitting.
IIRC Seaclear sent an instruction sheet with the seal rubber.
akyaka
Well-Known Member
Try one of your local sign companies .
akyaka
Well-Known Member
This firm sells polishes and also has useful instruction leaflets on removal and replacement of plastic windows
stevensuf
Well-Known Member
You can remove some of the surface crazing by using very fine sandpaper then polishing, very tedious and tends to remove it only for a year or two then it will return, if you check polish for restoring plastic on cars , this can be used or lens polishers for glasses.
Seajet
...
snowleopard & tudorsailor,
Seateach chandlery at Emsworth, Hants has a large stock of Lewmar hatches.
Just grill them on what you're getting; my second Lewmar hatch from them, same size, the bolt holes didn't line up at all !
A chum bought a 'Houdini direct replacement' there and it was fine; except different bolt spacing AND wrong hatch aperture size - he was not at all amused...
However, an OK source if you're sure it's the right kit.
Seateach chandlery at Emsworth, Hants has a large stock of Lewmar hatches.
Just grill them on what you're getting; my second Lewmar hatch from them, same size, the bolt holes didn't line up at all !
A chum bought a 'Houdini direct replacement' there and it was fine; except different bolt spacing AND wrong hatch aperture size - he was not at all amused...
However, an OK source if you're sure it's the right kit.