Cracked rudder hunter horizon 21

PhilSparks

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Hi, just wondering if anyone can help me decide what to do about these two cracks that I have noticed in the rudder of our hunter horizon 21.I can see light through them so think they go all the way through. They only just extend beneath the waterline, so there is no visible cracking in the lower half of the rudder. Have got lots of coastal cruising planned for summer. Wondering if best just to keep an eye, repair or replace? Thanks!
 

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Welcome to the forum.

The construction looks like wood. I dont know anything about the boat construction but the rudder doesn't look like an original.
I would repair using epoxy resin as a glue. Needs sanding, etc first. The sanding could well expose problems below the waterline. Could also put some stainless strips either side bolted in place as reinforcement.
 
I would agree with Boathook on this one. My Hunter 23 split in the same way. I gently prise it apart the cracks and filled it with epoxy. If you are still worred I would use some long stainless screws to hold it togeater
 
Simple enough to epoxy and clamp. Such a quick job that I personally wouldn't go sailing without having done it - that rearmost part is a big chunk of your control surface.
 
I agree that it is an easy fix but would suggest it is a sign that the cascamite (or whatever glue was used) has become old and brittle. The glue under the water is just as old. Better off taking the rudder off, disassembling it and doing the job properly. I have had dinghy rudders go like this and to quote Mr Musk undergo sudden unscheduled disassembly.
 
I agree that it is an easy fix but would suggest it is a sign that the cascamite (or whatever glue was used) has become old and brittle. The glue under the water is just as old. Better off taking the rudder off, disassembling it and doing the job properly. I have had dinghy rudders go like this and to quote Mr Musk undergo sudden unscheduled disassembly.
Totally agree that a proper job is the way to go - but if sailing now is the priority then I'd still opt for filling the void to prevent rot and putting (and leaving) clamps around it - long jubilee clips end-to-ended would do nicely for the season
 
If I was going to bodge, I would run a saw blade down the gaps to clean them out , then fill with sl thickened epoxy and bolt cheek pieces on to support
 
I had exactly the same on my Hunter Duette. I first sanded off all the old paint, back to bare wood. I then cut out each side of the seams into a v , cleaned out the crack as best I could and then got as much epoxy into the cracks as I could. I then sheathed the rudder both sides with fine woven glass cloth and epoxy. After that, cleaning up, sanding smooth and repainting.
 
After some cracks began to appear on our similar Hunter Delta rudder I stripped it back to wood, filled all the crack with Wessex resins epoxy mixed filler and sheathed the blade in woven glass fiber and epoxy before covering it in a couple of layers of paint . It weighed about 2-3Kg more but I was much happier that it would take the next 20 + years without any structural worries. So I recommend you do this when you have the time for peace of mind
 
I am assuming it is wood
Remove paint in the area of the crack both sides
Lay the rudder on its side. Run a saw down the crack to open it up. Apart from access this exposes fresh wood for the resin
Drill some 10mm diam holes through the rudder at max 70mm ccs through the crack line so the hole is 50/50 on the cut.
Clean the crack up with the saw again to remove fluff at the hole
On one side of the hole & crack apply duct tape Make sure it is well adhered
lay rudder flat & pour in west resin in to the holes & agitate with coffee stirrer so the resin runs along the saw cuts
Also try to work some resin in the saw cut if it will go. But keep topping up the resin in the holes until full & no more goes in
Take care not to push the duct tape off the opposite side. Rest it on some rags for support
When resin is hardened remove tape, Fill or sand any indents & sand smooth & paint
Refit rudder & go sailing
 
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Maybe clean out and fill the crack, and/or put a couple of glassfibre tape and resin straps around the rudder/and/or add timber cheeks .

Full sheathing of the rudder probably optimally requires it to be dried out, which will take time, so you could optionally defer that to the off-season.

Seems to be a good design for this sort of maintenance task
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions here. Think I will sand off, grind out a v groove maybe with a router, fill with epoxy. Then add some stainless/timber cheeks to support
 
While you are working on the rudder here is a couple of tips - these also work for the Hunyer 23 etc.

These rudders have a vortex shedding issue which causes all sorts of problems - Vibration and wieght on the tiller.
To cure this vortex issue, cut the bottom of the rudder so it is square and then cut the trailing edge of the rudder at 45 Degrees. This totally transforms the boat's handling,
 
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