I'm planning to sail down the west coast of Italy during June and July, from Elba to Sicily and wondered if anyone had up to date info on marina costs. Any information would be appreciated.
Unless things have changed a lot in the past two years, carry plenty of Euros! We did exactly the same in 2007. Our first payment, in Giglio Porto, for 10.6 metres was 40 Euros, that was for an unfinished berth with neither water nor a proper electricity supply, although we were offered a wander lead.
In various other marinas, where we could find no alternatives, we paid 45, 50 and 60 Euros per night. Slightly better situation at the southern end of the west coast, Vibo Valentia was 35 Euros from memory and Tropea was 29. We were told that Milazzo was likely to be about 60 Euros and met someone in a bigger boat who was charged 100. Riposto was 50 Euros per night but that was in June: it would have been 80 in July.
We did a similar trip last year. We paid from 45 to 85 euros per night (12m boat). Ports are supposed to have "free" berths but local knowledge is required. Be prepared to pay 50 euros for "water and electricity" (if you say they are not required there are no berths available) July and August is high season, up to 500% increase on low season.
Elba....plenty of anchorages(free)
Ostia....reasonable
Nettuno.....70 euro buiding site
Anzio was full
Milena....anchorage (Bay of Naples, north side). If it weren't for the Ribs and speedboats (1000's) this would be a nice place.
Capri....several hundred euros high season!
Salerno....10 euros plus 50 for water and power.
Just east of Camerota there is a bay (looks like the remains of a volcano) with about 15 mooring buoys (it is very deep). During the day it is full of motorised sun beds but as night falls they all depart. Beware of the bat cave. In 2008 it was free.
Vibo Valentia......reasonable marina, rubbish town.
Tropea......the best marina we saw in Italy (reasonable price) Interesting town. This appears to be a charter base so visiting yachts were asked/told to leave by friday so plan accordingly.
Messina...about 100 euros.
Reggio.....yacht harbour full (charter base). Main harbour free, best place is the north-east corner.
Forget marinas, Italian marinas last autumn were x3 those in France.
Eschew marinas (in any case you're unlikely to find space). Try small ports or anchor.
Here are a few I did 6 months ago:-
Darsena Traiano - Fiumicino
Cetara (ignore Rod Heikell's comments he's not been there)
Acciarola.
Both cost me nothing and were charming.
I'd suggest coming down Corse as far as possible, Bastia, Sollenzara, Porto Vecchio.
Avoid the Bay of Naples like the plague.
Sicilia is a bit more welcoming Portarosa, Marsala, Mazzara del Vallo. S coast of Sicilia is pretty badly served - try Gela, but be aware it's a Scilla Mafia town. Siracusa fantastic - BUT anchor and protect your dinghy - the marina is expensive and ropy.
In Calabria, there's le Castella (Roccella Ionica completely silted this winter) and Crotone.
I'm currently on Otranto public quay awaiting a weather window for Corfu.
So where are the anchorages down the Italian mainland? We managed to anchor at Anzio, Circeo, Salerno, Acciarolli and Tropea. The weather was very kind to us but every one was rolly and would have been untenable in any wind. These five are the only possibilities that we could find in a length of coastline 350 miles long. Some possible ones on the chart are too deep, some have been designated 'Nature reserves' where anchoring is banned, we anchored in one likely spot and were chased away by fishermen, and some were so exposed that even we would not risk them.
Fortunately, as Charles says, there are several free ports along this coast, and in between are some very expensive marinas. But anchorages are very rare indeed.
In Elba, Porto Ferraio is 100€ but you can anchor outside for free unless you leave your boat unattended at which point it will be towed away.
Marchiana Marina just along to the West is free.
On the mainland Senodi Campese is an easy anchorage and sheltered from the North.. You can anchor outside San Marinella and the marina has an odd policy of being reasonable for the first two nights and then expensive.. Fiumancino , Anzio, San Felice Cicero and Gaeta are all ok and can be free. Cetrano is another possibilityas is Tropea.
Don't forget the islands. Port d'Ischia is exorbitant (asking 250€ for 13m) but you can anchor below the castle or go to free moorings at Lacco Ameno.Several anchorages on the neighbouring Procida
The island of Ventotene is a "must go place" as is Ponza and is free.
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In Elba, Porto Ferraio is 100€ but you can anchor outside for free unless you leave your boat unattended at which point it will be towed away.
[/ QUOTE ] Not sure what you mean 'unattended'. We were there at anchor for a week or so and went ashore every day. No problems seen or officious officials around.
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Fiumancino , Anzio, San Felice Cicero and Gaeta are all ok and can be free.
[/ QUOTE ] I don't know of anywhere in Fiumicino that is free though there ought to be some space by rights. They move you on if you just want to tie up alongside waiting for the bridge /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif If you need to - as in our case to remove/replace the antenna/wind instrument due to bridge clearance - you need to call the harbour and ask permission.
We did this trip last summer. Here are the free or cheap places we found:
Loana - 1st night free - didn't even have to ask.
Carrara - 1 night free
Salerno (Porto Touristico) free (on the fuel berth)
Agropoli - free
Maratea - 1 night free
Cetraro - free but paid 20 Euros (gift) and had 3 nights there
My understanding is that all marinas in Italy should keep a number of free transit berths for one-night stops. If water or electricity is used then there will usually be a charge.
We learned to ask the local Coastguard where the free berths were. They almost always told us but the marina staff didn't like it much.
Knowing what I know now I would have found more free berths but we were on a learning curve.
<<< In Elba, Porto Ferraio is 100€ but you can anchor outside for free unless you leave your boat unattended at which point it will be towed away. >>>
I've heard from a couple of yachts that there is some sort of scam being worked off Porto Ferraio. If you anchor on the north side of the bay, i.e. fairly near to the ferry berth, you will quite possibly be left alone. If you go ashore you may return to find your boat gone. This happened to two owners I have spoken to. After some searching around they found that the boat had been towed into the town quay, where it could be recovered after paying a fairly hefty fee to the harbourmaster. The offence was obstructing the ferry. Having paid up, they were then taken aback to be told that they owed an equal amount to the skipper of the boat that towed them in. IIRC the total sum paid was 1200 Euros.
We anchored there long before I heard this story but fortunately we were well to the south and far away from the ferry berth, so did not suffer any problems.
We anchored there long before I heard this story but fortunately we were well to the south and far away from the ferry berth, so did not suffer any problems.
[/ QUOTE ]We anchored well to the south -- it wouldn't have crossed my mind to anchor to the north side with all that ferry traffic. That was the only downside of Porto Ferraio for us. Mind you, I was never 100% comfortable leaving the tender as there was no acceptable tender landing point. We ended up tying up by the most pigeon-pooped day fishing boats but I didn't leave it for long.
We debate which anchor to use, connectors, type of rode, markings, etc., all the time on these forums and the pilots (Heikell) usually mention holding but nobody ever discusses landing tenders -- often the most critical thing. And fresh water, of course, though doesn't bother me as we have a watermaker. I have some German guides to the anchorages of Ibiza and Mallorca which are excellent -- appropriate landing and water points are marked in all cases. We ought to try to get CA members to add this information for the updates.
As for moving the yachts being a 'scam', it is not easy to move a yacht. Someone has to board the yacht with the risk that they might cause damage, get unknown ground tackle up, maybe with no properly functioning windlass. You dare not re-anchor her in case she drags so all you can do is take her into a berth. Berths in Porto Ferraio are in pretty short supply so it seems to me that charging for the berth, the boat removal and a fine for inconvenience is perfectly acceptable. It is going to take between two and four men a good hour to complete the manoeuvre. One would hope that the anchor exclusion zone is marked on the official charts, though.
Hi Charles, when you say Roccella Ionica is completely silted this winter, do you mean it's blocked completely and no one can get in or out, or we need to use the "close to the beach route" as we did a few years ago?
john
Just to came back on the Elba story.
The people I spoke to were not in the front rank of the anchorage, conditions were calm but nonetheless their boat had its anchor lifted and towed away only to be returned at a total cost of €700. The validity of the procedure was confirmed by a sailing Italian policeman who we met later. There is a suggestion that foreign flagged yachts are more susceptible than Italian boats but-------you know how it is.
Regarding Rocella Ionica, we were ther in September and I remember 3m showing up on the "close to shore"route. That doesn't leave a lot to spare for winter silting up.
Not to be too despondent, but there was a silted up marina south of Cagliari (Marina Perde Sali) where boats had been stuck for 18 months while the debate about who should pay for dredging went on and on and on.!!
PS A good move may be to join the organisation "Lega Navale"
which has transit berths in many harbours. I think you can join at any Lega Navale club and it gives you two nights of free berthing and the use of club facilitie (preferably by short term booking). Their site is here in Italian http://www.leganavale.it/portale/index.asp
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There is a suggestion that foreign flagged yachts are more susceptible than Italian boats but-------you know how it is.
[/ QUOTE ]In the early 1990s I was in San Remo on business with a British company car. I knew San Remo very well as my parents had lived there since the late 1970s and I parked down a side street where everyone parks. When I got back, there was a traffic warden giving me a ticket. I protested to her that all Italians park down those streets. "Ah", she said, "that's true but you're not an Italian". She beamed me a huge smile, then handed me the ticket!
In 2007 we entered by the 'inshore route' in quite boisterous conditions and encountered some scary shallow depths. On quizzing others who had come straight in they reported sufficient depth all the way. When we left we headed straight out and found plenty of water.
Great pizzeria here, selling pizza by the metre. We loved it and ate there twice.
We were there in September 2008 and found sufficient water (about 3 metres) by following the 'inshore route' for about 100 metres from the entrance then turning out.
Where there was a shortage of water was the pontoon taps. But we could put up with that for 3 nights free berthing.
Have to agree about the half-metre pizzas - excellent.
as others have said this coast is a nightmare for moorings but full of anomolies and very difficult to get a good idea up front of costs because in many places the price is " variable" according to which of the ormegiatore get to you first. We passed through there last July (as quickly as possible) 11 metre boat cost us from 120 euros in Ischia to free in many places. the only place so far not mentioned is La Castella next stop from Rocella Ionica (still free and navigable then) . La Castella is about 25 Euros and a lovely little town, although not too much space or depth. If you are on a budget IMHO I would find another playground.