Corrosion free electrical connections?

[Tim Good]

I'm going through my new boat and replacing loads of rusted electrical connections. I want to replace what is there with a better connector that will stand the test of time and keep the terminal ends in relatively good shape.

Should I also put some grease over things afterwards for added protection?

(Many at the moment I am finding are just standard block connectors where the terminal end or the block has rusted)

 

[nigelmercier]

Should I also put some grease over things afterwards for added protection?

Apply ContraLube 770 as you assemble the joint: http://bit.ly/Contralube770

 

[captainboo]

Or for half the price:- http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/contralube-770-connector-lubricant-8g-sachet-n78dd

 

[KristiferColumbus]

Or for half the price:- http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/contralube-770-connector-lubricant-8g-sachet-n78dd

Or for 1/5 the price of that the rubber silicon type goo I plastered over my terminal block yesterday which I reckon makes it more than just "weatherproof"

 

[Tim Good]

Or for 1/5 the price of that the rubber silicon type goo I plastered over my terminal block yesterday which I reckon makes it more than just "weatherproof"

So you literally just squirted silicone all over it, effectively making it watertight? Not neat but suppose that would do the job.

ContraLube looks good but strikes me your just paying inflated prices for general grease?

 

[KristiferColumbus]

So you literally just squirted silicone all over it, effectively making it watertight? Not neat but suppose that would do the job.

ContraLube looks good but strikes me your just paying inflated prices for general grease?

I used some stuff that was only a quid in the local 99p type shop that was something more than just silicon (I think it was all weather outside type stuff used for gutters & facias etc).It was directly under the sink & in an area that gets wet at the moment because of a leak.It was'nt neat but you can't see it & I reckon it is all but bomb proof.For something less permanent (like the mast deck plugs that I also did) I use Vaseline.

 

[rob2]

It depends just how far yo are wanting to go... In an ideal world, all the wire used on board would be tinned. It's relatively expensive as each strand is individually tinned, but it will never corrode in the salt atmosphere where ordinary copper goes black and can no longer make a connection. The type of connection chosen has often caused long and bitter arguments on the forum, but for speed of work and cnvenience i like the crimp connectors used with a glue-lined heat shrink strain relief. As the description tells you, the heat shrink acts as a strain relief and the glue within it seals the connection and prevents the salty water (including humidity) from getting at it and down the wire. If you're installing a new untinned wire, then such a connection gives it the best chance of a long and reliable service life.

Dependiing on application, you can use spades, bullets or ring terminals with the option of distribution via a brass bus bar. Now a bit of Contralube or similar for the actual contact and you've got a connection you can forget about in daily use - just give it a visual check, a wiggle and a fresh spray each winter.

Rob.

 

[prv]

I have relatively few electrical connections hidden around the boat, because wherever possible the wire runs are continuous from the distribution board to the equipment. Where a joint is necessary for some reason I solder the conductors in individual heatshrink tubes and then apply glue-lined heatshrink over the whole joint, checking for a continuous glue-line right round the cable at the end of the sleeve. Inside the panel behind the chart table, all the joints are either crimped-on spades or crimped-on forks onto screw terminals. Demountable connections elsewhere generally use Superseal connectors. All the wiring is tinned. The only chocolate-block on the boat is in the toolbox for very temporary repairs.

Pete

 

[nigelmercier]

ContraLube looks good but strikes me your just paying inflated prices for general grease?

See this link to see why not: http://contralube.com/contralube-770/

Or for half the price:- http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/contralube-770-connector-lubricant-8g-sachet-n78dd

Good find, even if it is Maplin (spit!).

 

[lw395]

Or for 1/5 the price of that the rubber silicon type goo I plastered over my terminal block yesterday which I reckon makes it more than just "weatherproof"

A lot of silicone 'gorilla snot' contains acetic acid or releases it as it cures. It can be destructive to metal contacts.
1) Have as few joins as possible
2) Keep the joins dry
3) Silicone grease or Vaseline is good for plug/socket connections.
4) A branded electrical grease might be a bit better.
5) Silicone spray or GT85 or similar can help.

 

[KellysEye]

I used Vaseline on electrical connections it's cheap and works.

 

[captainboo]

Good find, even if it is Maplin (spit!).

I thought it was a good find as I knew you don't like Maplin!

 

[Daydream believer]

For block connectors I solder nipples on the wires ( forget correct term) & this protects the exposed end of the wire a little & also allows one to tighten the screw down fairly tight without cutting or distorting the wire itself

 

[prv]

For block connectors I solder nipples on the wires ( forget correct term)

Ferrules.

I still don't like that kind of connector, though.

Pete

 

[nigelmercier]

I thought it was a good find as I knew you don't like Maplin!

I have occasionally bought stuff in Maplin, but it is almost invariably available cheaper elsewhere, and better quality. A bit like PC World (Double Spit!).

 

[oldbilbo]

Plea - would gentlemen-contributors please stop spitting while making posts. It is gumming up the insides of my computer screen....