Correct engine start procedure

[MidlandsOnSea]

Maybe a silly question, but...

RYA diesel course and others have said that you should not have engine idling for long after starting because the engine likes to be under load to get it up to temperature quickly.

The engine user manual says you should run the engine at idle speeds and not apply a load until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

So, which is correct? Or am I missing something here?

 

[hlb]

Well volsplutter have found a new way of stopping engines from smokeing. It's called. try to start the buggers up on no revs. Course it fails misserably but avoids smoke. It's politically corect, but like most things PC unatatainable.

 

[trev]

Where d'y get this 'starting with no revs thingy'? My AD41s smoke all the time - I'm trying all sorts to reduce it, so any advice welcome.
Blueish smoke at start up and grey/brownish at revs. Not using any oil, but performance is down - takes a while to get up to 20kts and only turning 3500 revs.
Presently undergoing change of all filters, including air. Did have the dreaded fuel bug a couple of years ago and brought in the 'experts'. Could this be something to do with the stuff they put in, even after more than two full tanks have gone through?
I think maybe I have a sticky injector (or two) as a result of above mentioned bug- do any of these fuel additives do what they claim ?

 

[MapisM]

If you can heat the engines under a limited load, that is perfect.
Probably the manufacturer suggestion is due to the risk of being "forced" to increase rpm once you move the boat (i.e. against a strong tide).
Definitely, try to avoid high load on cold engines.

 

[spannerman]

Our rule of thumb in the dealership is to start them, run them at fast idle 12-1500rpm to get the charging system working to recharge the batteries after cranking. Then run at about 2,000rpm to get the temp up to 80c, then use normally, this is to get the oil warm and thinner before running everything at full speed especially the turbo as this is what shortens the life of the turbo bearings, hard use when its cold, also allowing the turbo to wind down after full throttle before switching off.

 

[oldgit]

Normally give engine 10 secs for heaters.
Crank with throttle open for 1800/2000 rpm start.
Quickly throttle back to 1200/1000 rpm for short warm to prevent stalling.
Repeat.
Zip round and release all but one rope(2 mins?).
Shut both throttles to idle 600 rpm.
Untie last rope and off.
About 5 mins the lot.
25 year old 2500 hours AD40.
Bit of smoke on start up no smoke on running but outdrive exhaust under water.

 

[Nauti Fox]

Come, come Fred. I know that you have to rake out the boiler first, I've seen you. When are you going to switch to the infernal combustion engine.
Personally, I let go all but bow and stern lines, start up,1500 revs, then back to 1000, make sure the oil pressure is ok and the electrics charging, undo the lines and off we go. Saying that we are on a stretch of the river with a speed limit so they are under a lightish load until they warm up. If we are somewhere near the open sea then we just take it easy until they do, then we take it.. er.. easy cos they are 32 years old!
In our engine manual not making any smoke is listed in the fault finding section!I kid you not.

 

[mjf]

Re: my way

Well I do my routine completely differently.

I single up to a spring, then start each lump when oil pressure and charging showing - let go and then using no revs put each in gear alternatively and move off into the fairway.

Then out towards the lock / or open water still at 600/700 rpm as this when used together gives 6/7 knots. Once temps up open up to 1000 until reach open water which is normally 15/30 mins then off at whatever speed required.

No smoke, just a smallish 'puff' when getting over the hump.

I reckon this OK as engines only really running under load conditions albeit slight but I have never run them at idle ever!

 

[stelican]

I took the air filter ouit of mine and it ran much cleaner

 

[whisper]

Re: my way

Oh dear, I suppose I'm doing it all wrong again.
My performance is as follows :- Check we are in Neutral , start up at tickover revs, choke all bystanders with a cloud of light coloured smoke, let go all lines , piss off and potter down the estuary at up to 1500 revs. This is with a KAD 44 with semi "fly by wire" controls (EDC).
There is no more than a 30 second gap between "start-up" and "piss-off" conditions.

 

[oldgit]

Re:A quick once over

Also like to add that always open engine hatch before starting firstly to check if any water has dared to infiltrate inner sanctum of bilges and then to observe if any thing lets go in the hose or belt dept on start up.
As boat is in the "late afternoon" of its existance,will always check everthing for weeps and seeps without fail even on shortest journeys.Do it all again on shut down(well nearly always).

 

[tcm]

ah well, see, the best route is not to read the manuals. seriously, the rya diesel course is the correct one - it would take yonks to warm a diesel on tickover. But you can apply tickover idles speeds like bumbling out of the marina, and often it'll be warm after a few minutes 5-10 say. As others say, no whamming from cold, and no idling for twenty minutes on the pontoon which is a bit daft really imho.

 

[Trevethan]

Correct engine start procedure in the real world

No No No all wrong.


Procedure

Let go most of the ropes. Turn battery switches on, open seacock etc.

Set throttle to 3/4 revs out of gear and turn key.

Listen to engine go "whu" the stop. Check batteries and note voltage at 11.0 volts. Plug charger back in after swmbo removed it to use hairdryer after final shower last trip and you have had the dridge on since night before

Wait an hour or two.

Turn engine over. Hear strange clacking sound from engine bay. Check voltage showing 13 v plus. open engine bay and peer at starter.. Note bendix is already engaged and hasn't returned to position.

Persuade bendix to return with help of gentle application of hammer blows to starter motor.

Return hatch covers. Fire up engine. burst into life. throttle back but when after a few minutes it starts to stutter.remember you turned the fuel cock off last time. Tear hatch open and open the valve, cos you cannot remember for life of you the proedure to bleed the thing without the manual, which is conveniently at home cos you wanted to order some spares..

Listenn anxiously whiel engine gets very slow.. giving it lots of throttle to keep it ticking over, finally when fuel flow is restored properly, set throttle to about 1/4 to warm.

Start to edge out, but just as departing do quick glance astern and notice nice bright yellow mooring line. Apply reverse gear before line gets tight.

Send crew ashore to disconnect shore power cable. While waiting call up the lock keeper on radio to let him know you are finally ready to leave.

Finally shut down engine, apply mooring warps and get the beer out when lock keeper tells you there is only 3 foot of water above the cill and you draw 4 cos you spent too much time buggering around and missed the tide.

All the best

Nick

 

[hlb]

Upps This was ment for Trev.

In this picture below you will see an example of normal startup procedure.

Course this can only be achieved with regular doses of Soltron, otherwise realy bad smokeing wil occure.

Once warm, then there should be no smoke, just a whisp of steam.

Either your engines are labouring with a mucky bottom. Or they need servicing, injectors?? But stick some Soltron in anyway.

 

[Col]

Wareham??

 

[hlb]

Why. Is it cloudy in Wareham??

 

[BrendanS]

you must never have been to Wareham - no houses on hills in those parts - it's a bit flatter /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif and no open water /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[whisper]

Interesting photo. Does this smokescreen happen with Soltron bought from any scource or do you add a secret ingredient yourself ? The reason I ask is that your picture shows a very similar situation to that of when we start up and we've only ever used Soltron purchased from you !!!!! Presumably it can be quite useful for hiding the boat from the prying eyes of other forumites.

 

[BrendanS]

He supplies the Red Arrows too, but in various colours

 

[tr7v8]

I was always taught not to let engines idle excessively. Camshaft lubrication on OHV engines is effectively splash and long idle periods mean knackered cams. Instructions from Piper cams is do not let engine idle run fast enough to ensure enough oil splash eg 2000RPM on a petrol about 30-40% of peak revs