coppercoat and the saildrive leg

[Birdseye]

just coppercoated the hull but left the alloy saildrive leg with a coat of epoxy. But it seems unlikely that coppercoat would be a conductor and for that reason no more likely to cause electrolytic corrosion of the alloy leg than the bronze prop that is connected to the leg. In any case there is an anode attached.

what is the view of the forum? has anyone coppercoated an outdrive / saildrive leg?

 

[Daydream believer]

I would not do that if I were you. Some have coppercoated too near to the aluminium shaft of the rudder with the result that the shaft has pitted rather badly. I would keep the coppercoat back by the width of the rubber fairing . There are antifoul paints for aluminium A small tin of trilux 33 lasts for ages . However, i am told it may be discontinued so an alternative may be needed

 

[Chiara’s slave]

I would not do that if I were you. Some have coppercoated too near to the aluminium shaft of the rudder with the result that the shaft has pitted rather badly. I would keep the coppercoat back by the width of the rubber fairing . There are antifoul paints for aluminium A small tin of trilux 33 lasts for ages . However, i am told it may be discontinued so an alternative may be needed

The first question the pros who copper coated ours was ‘what is your rudder pivot made from?’. Ours is stainless.

 

[Tranona]

Definitely not AMC specifically say do not use it on saildrive legs, primarily because to achieve the desired thickness will restrict the water intake slots. I have had 2 saildrives, the second with Coppercoated hull and have found the spray on International Prop -O- Drev or Hempel Ecopower very effective. Not so good on propellers because it erodes quickly and Velox is best here. You can also use Velox on tthe leg if it has only the original epoxy on it, but difficult to remove other coatings to get back to the original.

This is my Bavaria 33 with Hempel on the drive and prop hub and Velox on the blades.

 

[Elessar]

just coppercoated the hull but left the alloy saildrive leg with a coat of epoxy. But it seems unlikely that coppercoat would be a conductor and for that reason no more likely to cause electrolytic corrosion of the alloy leg than the bronze prop that is connected to the leg. In any case there is an anode attached.

what is the view of the forum? has anyone coppercoated an outdrive / saildrive leg?

Coppercoat is non conductive and won’t hurt it.

But there is so much misinformation about this (because it’s true about regular copper based antifoul) that it might make it hard to sell your boat.

So I wouldn’t do it.

 

[Elessar]

I would not do that if I were you. Some have coppercoated too near to the aluminium shaft of the rudder with the result that the shaft has pitted rather badly. I would keep the coppercoat back by the width of the rubber fairing . There are antifoul paints for aluminium A small tin of trilux 33 lasts for ages . However, i am told it may be discontinued so an alternative may be needed

You are wrong in assuming the Coppercoat caused this. You are applying the rules for cooper based regular antifoul which is proud and therefore conductive to Coppercoat. Put a meter on it on the resistance scale.

 

[Daydream believer]

The first question the pros who copper coated ours was ‘what is your rudder pivot made from?’. Ours is stainless.

If you are directing that to me, then Hanse yachts use Jefra rudders. They are nearly all use aluminium posts. I am not sure about the 45 Ft + boats but the rest are, as far as I know.

 

[Daydream believer]

You are wrong in assuming the Coppercoat caused this. You are applying the rules for cooper based regular antifoul which is proud and therefore conductive to Coppercoat. Put a meter on it on the resistance scale.

So you are suggesting that copper coat does not contain copper! Perhaps that explains why it does not work

 

[Tranona]

So you are suggesting that copper coat does not contain copper! Perhaps that explains why it does not work

Not suggesting at all - just that it does not leech out in the same way as copper does from conventional aF. My Bavaria was coppercoated right up to the stock.

You are right with boats that use aluminium rudder stocks and bearing housings like Bavarias and Hanses using conventional copper based AF should leave a 10cm ring around the entry point and use Trilux or similar there.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

If you are directing that to me, then Hanse yachts use Jefra rudders. They are nearly all use aluminium posts. I am not sure about the 45 Ft + boats but the rest are, as far as I know.

I meant to reinforce your point about alloy. The boatyard checked before doing the job, as they should

 

[Birdseye]

Coppercoat is non conductive and won’t hurt it.

But there is so much misinformation about this (because it’s true about regular copper based antifoul) that it might make it hard to sell your boat.

So I wouldn’t do it.

I agree so I wont coat the leg.