Coolant replacement/flushing with cast iron block

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I don't think the coolant has been changed on this cast iron block engine for coming up to five years. No problems to date but i worry bout ooh, waterways being blocked and that sort of thing.

1) Does it need changing anyway?

2) could i just drain it and replace if it does need replacing?

3) Can I use normal antifreeze?

4) what about flushing with limescale remover? Is that a bit daft really?
 
flushing with furnox (or similar like sentinel) scale remover from B&Q is a recommended procedure. Its cheaper than motor scale remover, and designed for central heating. seems to do the job!
 
<ul type="square"> [*]1 After 5 years it is probably sensible but no need to panic [*]2 Yes, just as you would in your car [*]3 Yes [*]4 It should not need it. How often would you descale the cooling sytem of your car? [/list]
 
i believe you can now buy long lasting coolant, up to 12 years.
Remember, coolant acts as anti freeze as well.
 
Think after 5 years provided the coolant is not all rusty and brown I'd flush with water and then refill with kewlant.

I'd not reccomend any kind of cleaning stuff, I bort some 'Fertan' for the jag engine and it did nowt. Nada. Zilch. Other than make a tremendous mess in the garage.
 
Flush it with fresh water, drain and re- antifreeze. No need for anything else as yours is a closed system, not raw cooled.
 
Is this a public service posting?

After all, this question hasn't been asked for - well - days really!

The obvious answer is RTFM - Read The F******G Manual, which no doubt will say Yes, Yes, Yes No.

Acshually, on reflection, you SHOULD flush with acid cleaner, always worthwhile, as long as you take the appropriate precautions.

You will need 2 - 45 gallon drums of the stuff (so you can do both engines at once), fed with a hose from the marina tap to keep the level up (use a y-piece to supply both at once).

Simply connect lengths of 1/2 inch hose to the strainers and let them suck what they need from the drums. You may need a couple of step down adaptors to get the hoses on your strainer inlets.

While you've got the strainer hoses off, how about a question on servicing seacocks, that hasn't been done for nearly a week.

All IMHO of course.
 
Re: Is this a public service posting?

You'll only need 10 Litres of HydroChloric Acid - just dont breath the fumes - Well you'll do it once (it don't half make your eyes water).

Very efficacious! but if there is a weak point in the engine or ancillaries it'll find it. But then - that point was going to pack up soon anyway.

Brian
 
Re: Is this a public service posting?

I agree with Brian, acid will find the weak points. On cars, I have had a radiator leak and a water pump fail, when using strong cleaners.

The amount of debris in an engine depends on how often it needs to be topped up. Thus adding lime and air. A modern sealed car coolent system should remain clear for a long time.

I slowly cleaned Pendragon's Perkins 4108 last winter by only adding a small amounts of acid each week. About half a cup full was added, when the water test showed low acidity.

Rather than undoing the bottom, difficult to get at, hose, I siphoned water out with the engine running. At the same time I added clean rainwater until it ran clear. Amasing how much crud there was in the run off bucket.

I used phosphoric acid, as used in many cleaners. No dangerious fumes.

Philip
 
Modern anti-freeze contains corrosion inhibitors. These are depleted with use and after five years, I'd reccommend replacement.....remember if yor boat is stored ashore in the winter, it'll get colder than if you keep her on the mooring so adjust the strength accordingly. You can get re-activators for your antifreeze which contains a higher proportion of the addatives but personally I'd stick to a simple flush and replacement. Every year is overkill, but I'd not leave it beyond five, myself.
 
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