when makeing a cool box and placeing a rubber seal around the lid should i use a locking catch or just a pull ring anyone got any answers???? cause its got me stumped!
Most of the cool boxes I have made have 2 lids, one that opens right out, or lifts off for packing or cleaning, the other lid is inside the first, much smaller to avoid cold air loss.
The best seal I have found to date is flat runner with an inner core of foam, only about 2 or 3 mm thick, the trick is to make the smaller lid with a taper of around 25 to 30 degrees, this means it just drops in onto the rubber and seals.
The grip is also simple, hollow out some of the foam and glass in a strip of suitable material; this leaves a level top, handy for stacking.
Also consider filling all the right angle corners with a fillet to make cleaning very easy.
Avoid drains as they can be a problem when heat is transferred from outside.
i kinda understand that,my worry is when i fit the 3 mm rubber i will recess 2mm so i have 1mm protruding as i am making a totally flush lid it means with out hinges and a locking type pull ring it will not close flush with my lamanated bench top,i am now thinking of removing the locking pull ring and replacing it with a standed pull ring hopeing the rubber will compress enough to shut the lid flush......i cant get my head around it......but at least my beers are cold now!
Having just one mm of seal to compress I doubt it will for long if at all, that's why I go for the 3 mm with a soft foam core, compresses easy for a good seal; if you must have a hinged lid, try spreading some runner lube on the seal next to the hinge, as this area gets a side loading on the seal as the lid closes/opens.
as cold air does not rise the seal for the lid is the least of your worries. However ,unless you want the contents of your cool box all over the saloon after a 360 I would suggest a mechanical fastener.