Yachtmaster
N/A
I am going to convert an old roller reefing boom to slab reefing Any advice would be very welcome
Convertion
- Thread starter Yachtmaster
- Start date
dulcibella
Active member
Is this an old round-section boom? My advice (based on havig done the same on my old Halmatic 30) is to ditch the old boom and get a new one. I suupose that it would be possible to convert it, but after looking at possible ways I decided that I could spend a lot of time and significant cash and still have an old, much used boom that was less stong than a modern extrusion.
janie
New member
[ QUOTE ]
but after looking at possible ways I decided that I could spend a lot of time and significant cash and still have an old, much used boom that was less stong than a modern extrusion.
[/ QUOTE ]I agree. It is good to have space to run the reefing lines through the boom. The new boom may be bigger and stronger than the old one, but it is definitely lighter! Unfortunately, you'll probably end up adding a new mainsail and new boom cover to your expenses /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
but after looking at possible ways I decided that I could spend a lot of time and significant cash and still have an old, much used boom that was less stong than a modern extrusion.
[/ QUOTE ]I agree. It is good to have space to run the reefing lines through the boom. The new boom may be bigger and stronger than the old one, but it is definitely lighter! Unfortunately, you'll probably end up adding a new mainsail and new boom cover to your expenses /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Bodach na mara
Well-known member
Been there, done it (twice) and worth it.
First time I did not run the line through the boom. Just set the sail on a calm day and pulled it down to the first reef at the luff end and lashed it down there. (later on I fitted a hook system at that end.) At the other end, I pulled the reefing crinkle down to the boom and marked the position on the top side of the boom. I then drew a line at 45 degrees down and aft from that mark to the boom mid-line and put a block at that point on one side and a "saddle" on the other side opposite. Reefing line ties to saddle, up and through sail crinkle, down through block and forward to a cleat which was screwed on to the boom near the mast end. Later on I filled a bullseye half-way along.
Second time, someone had already drilled the boom and fitted plastic eyes at the entry and exit points and fitted the cleat and block; in the wrong position. I only had to move the block and fit a saddle for the fixed end of the line. The block and saddle should be in a position such that the reefing lines lead aft and down at 45 degrees to give both foot tension and down force.
In use, the main is released, boom is raised with the topping lift, the halyard is slackened and the luff is pulled down and attached to the hook (or a snap shackle can be used.) With the boom raised, the reef is pulled in by the line. The topper is eased off and the main sheeted in. All takes less time than I have taken to describe it. Good luck.
First time I did not run the line through the boom. Just set the sail on a calm day and pulled it down to the first reef at the luff end and lashed it down there. (later on I fitted a hook system at that end.) At the other end, I pulled the reefing crinkle down to the boom and marked the position on the top side of the boom. I then drew a line at 45 degrees down and aft from that mark to the boom mid-line and put a block at that point on one side and a "saddle" on the other side opposite. Reefing line ties to saddle, up and through sail crinkle, down through block and forward to a cleat which was screwed on to the boom near the mast end. Later on I filled a bullseye half-way along.
Second time, someone had already drilled the boom and fitted plastic eyes at the entry and exit points and fitted the cleat and block; in the wrong position. I only had to move the block and fit a saddle for the fixed end of the line. The block and saddle should be in a position such that the reefing lines lead aft and down at 45 degrees to give both foot tension and down force.
In use, the main is released, boom is raised with the topping lift, the halyard is slackened and the luff is pulled down and attached to the hook (or a snap shackle can be used.) With the boom raised, the reef is pulled in by the line. The topper is eased off and the main sheeted in. All takes less time than I have taken to describe it. Good luck.
alahol2
Well-known member
I think Barton make a 'slab reefing kit' comprising of a length of track with 3 sliding blocks with 90 degree beckets (if that makes sense). The reefing line comes from the becket, under the boom, up throught the reefing eye, down to the block and then forward along the boom to cleats or jammers. It's not ideal but a whole lot cheaper than a new boom. At the mast end of the boom I have previously used a largish stainless hook attached to a piece of rope spliced round the gooseneck fitting, This worked very well, better than the 'horns' on my current boom.
