Converting to Wheel Steering

[scottb34300]

Hi, I own a Contest 25 sailing cruiser and wish to convert from tiller to wheel steering. Can anyone offer any advice such as what I would need, estimate costs, where to obtain the items etc etc. Any information would be kindly received.

Many thanks.

Scott

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[oldsalt]

I am not familiar with the Contest - but why change? Wheel steering is expensive, you loose the "feel" of a tiller, and will probably not increase the second hand value. Wheels are usually used on larger boats because their gearing will reduce the loads on the helmsman.

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[scottb34300]

Thanks for that, however, I do find the steering heavy on the Contest when the wind gets up. I also prefer the feel of the wheel to tiller.

Any more information would be appreciated.

Scott.

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[Captain Coochie]

I had to replace the steering "loom" on my 18ft cruiser about 2 years ago from the old pully and ropes, the stock to fit the wheel in too and around 5m of loom and fittings cost me around £160 but this was to an outboard and i fitted it myself
hope its of some help
Jason :O)

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[pvb]

First steps...

Start by getting hold of a copy of the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.edsonintl.com>Edson catalogue</A>, which is full of advice, drawings, dimensions, etc.

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[john_morris_uk]

I still agree with oldsalt. If the steering is heavy when the wind gets up wheel steering is not necessarily the answer. Have you had a good look at the way you are trimming sails/sail balance etc etc? What about a redesign of the rudder? I don't know the Contest 25 very well, but many boats were built to a budget where some aspects of the design were compromised to assist the builder. It might be hassle, but it is a lot cheaper to add balance to the rudder than any sort of decent wheel steering system.

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[tome]

Have you experimented with the mainsheet traveller? Easing this can have a huge effect on helm.

I wouldn't even contemplate wheel steering on less than a 35 ft boat.

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[LadyInBed]

. . . and it takes up a lot of space.

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[LadyInBed]

Yes, a 2 or 3 inch strip down th front edge of the rudder works wonders for heavy steering.

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[oldsaltoz]

Adding around 12% or the total area in front of the rudder stock provides a good balance without loss of feel, any more and you are in danger of breaking or bending depending on how well the original design was.

For wheel or tiller stearing.

Hope this helps

Andavagoodun. Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif



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[Sybarite]

I tend to agree with the others who suggest remaining with the tiller. Unless your cockpit was designed with the option of a wheel, to make it fit will either involve a fairly small wheel - with heavy loads - or having a larger wheel set much higher which does not improve looks or comfort and may impede locker openings.

If the helm gets heavy it may suggest that when the wind gets up you are not reefing the mainsail early enough. Many people begin with the furling genoa because it's less hassle.

John

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[stretch33]

Had my boat just over a year now with wheel steering, its 33 ft but would still prefer a tiller, the wheel clutters the cockpit a bit and its only a small one, plus l reckon tiller is better for single handing. Still have to reef as steering gets heavy with the wheel.

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[qsiv]

I'd agree. My current boat (51') is wheel steered, even with big (60") wheel the feel is poor. The new boat (40') is tiller steered, and it is so much more direct.

There just isnt any excuse for heavy steering - either the rig is angled too far aft (tilt it forward a few degrees), the leech of the main is too tight (ease the kicker and/or sheet), or just possibly if you have a big overlapping genny, the slot is too tight at higher winds (increase twist by either moving sheet lead forward or cracking sheet an half an inch or so).

With a modern hull shape it's also possible there is just too much sail up - modern boats present an entirely different shape to the water when excessively heeled and like to be kept on their feet.

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[oldsalt]

If the steering gets heavy in strong winds, then your sail balance/trim is wrong, mast rake is wrong or possibly the rudder needs adjusted. I wouod check the sails first.

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[Guest]

HEJ
I have a 27" wheelhouse motorsailer. i can disconnect the wheel and go to tiller stearing by releasing the wheel from the rudder shaft. a simple locking devise.
and i go for tiller every time when we are under sailpower.
far more feeling no matter where the wind is comming from.
i once owned a S&S 26" it was a sod in hard weather.the tiller needed two hands and both feet planted solid.
we sailed a lot of reggata at that time. winning as well.
i broke the tiller once and the welding gave up another time.
the tiresom was. that if there wasnt any weight on the rudder you were getting no speed.
one of my competiters split his rudder. so when reparing it he made a rudder with the same area but 1/2 as wide and 2xdeeper. the result was a baby could steer it.
the reason for altering the rudder the way descriibed was the ruder stock was in front of the whole depth of the rudder.
the minus would maybe that the rudder was getting close to the keel depth.
anyway the points are
1: wheel isnt better than stick under sail
2: there are some boats that sail on the rudder. no matter what you do with the trim if you want to keep moving optimalt.
good wind


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[andy_wilson]

A wheel won't 'cure' heavy steering when the wind gets up, your problem is your sails, or rig, or the way they are set (reference other responses). Heavy steering is an indicator, not a problem.

Pro's. Easy(er) for unacustomed crew to steer the boat.

Con's. Lack of feel compared to tiller.
Unacustomed helm might have 1/2 lock on before they start to realise sails / rig / settings are wrong.
Weight aft where you least want it (about 1 mans worth for a decent system).
Complexity.
If a cable etc. goes you can bet that the emergency arrangement will be less effective than the current tiller (e.g. too short, or angled up in the air to clear the binacle.
Need to find somewhere to stow length of bent scaffold pole.
Dimunition in cockpit space that is probably at a premium in a 25 footer.
Cost (well it's for a boat i'nt it).
Devaluation? Who can say.

It's getting harder to find good performance 40 footers with a tiller, which I venture is what they should have.

STICK WITH THE TILLER!

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[vyv_cox]

Whilst I have to agree with most of the others that a tiller is preferable to a wheel for a whole variety of reasons, especially on a smaller boat, I realise that your question has barely been answered.

Simpson Lawrence can provide all the equipment for such a conversion. I spoke to them at last year's Amsterdam Boat Show and they showed me several examples of recent projects. I think another post mentioned Edson, who can do the same thing. I would expect the cost to be horrendous, like two or three grand.

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[richardandtracy]

How much are you willing to make?

If the answer is 'Everything', then I doubt if it'll cost more than £150, and dependant on your foraging skills, much less than that. Otherwise, how deep are your pockets?

To build everything, you'll need access to a scrap yard, a lathe (possibly a shaper or mill for shaft keys) as well as a welder.

You'll need a length of motorcycle chain & sprocket (for the wheel hub), some s.s wire (2.5x the length of the wire run to be safe) and a number of shackles & swage fittings. Budget for making 10 hardwood pulley sheaves at least plus enough side plates, pivots & supports. Possibly a quadrant from steel plate & a boss (dependant on where the rudder is -I don't know your vessel type). A wheel (naturally) - home made from rolled steel tube with bonded teak grips is nice and a pivot shaft along with 2 bronze journal bearings. 2 grease nipples. Don't forget the pedestal tube (4" dia OD x 1/4" wall steel tube) and cap. Nuts & bolts: 100 of various sizes up to M10 should do.
Key steel, one length. Paint - 3 times as much as seems reasonable.

And the most precious and difficult to obtain commodities - Elbow grease and enthusiasm.

Regards

Richard


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