Converting anchor locker to self draining. Fibreglass noob

timmygobang

timmygobang

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Does anyone else have a anchor locker that drains into the bilge?

I would rather it be self draining.

I've never ever done any fibreglassing, but im guessing its going to involve resin, fibreglass matting and a piece of marine ply to make the partition?

(and of course drill a hole at the lowest point of the locker)

If anyone has any tips or advice on what materials to use id be really grateful. I can only see tutorials on making subwoofer boxes or entire boats on tinternet.

Thanks
 
timmygobang said:
Does anyone else have a anchor locker that drains into the bilge?

I would rather it be self draining.

I've never ever done any fibreglassing, but im guessing its going to involve resin, fibreglass matting and a piece of marine ply to make the partition?

(and of course drill a hole at the lowest point of the locker)

If anyone has any tips or advice on what materials to use id be really grateful. I can only see tutorials on making subwoofer boxes or entire boats on tinternet.

Thanks
Click to expand...

You can use Epoxy or polyester but I prefer working with epoxy.
There are also other epoxy manufacturers than West system :)

West system have shared documentation on working with epoxy here http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/
look at this pdf http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf chapter 6.1 Repairing delaminated soles and decks

You will have to do something similar (except removing the old stuff ;).
I would cover the whole plywood in fibreglass/epoxy to protect it from water.

Alternatively you can use a temporary backing plate and laminate the whole thing and remove the backing plate.
If the finish on the side with the backing plate is not critical a "trick" I have used with success is to cover the backing plate with soft plastic (plastic bags or similar) as epoxy wont stick on that (Note this will not work with polyester), plastic tape work fine as masking tape when working with epoxy.
 
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The anchor locker on my little boat is self draining. There are 2 holes from the bottom of the locker out through the hull. Of course this requires that the bottom of the locker be above normal water level. (By some margin).
Obviously if your locker goes down deep such that it is below water line then you will be stuck with draing into the bilge or have a separate pump to empty the anchor locker. Fibreglass work is fairly easy. As said use epoxy but you will need some warmth like 15 degrees fro proper setting. good luck olewill
 
William_H said:
The anchor locker on my little boat is self draining. There are 2 holes from the bottom of the locker out through the hull. Of course this requires that the bottom of the locker be above normal water level. (By some margin).
Obviously if your locker goes down deep such that it is below water line then you will be stuck with draing into the bilge or have a separate pump to empty the anchor locker. Fibreglass work is fairly easy. As said use epoxy but you will need some warmth like 15 degrees fro proper setting. good luck olewill
Click to expand...
Putting some 'clam' type shells in stainless on the outside helps on the grounds that when it the boat is heeled and the holes go underwater, then you are moving and it helps keep the water out...
 
Just depends what you have in bottom of chain locker, on my Westerly Fulmar there was just one drain hole into bilges. I Sykaflexed a bolt with penny washer on it into hole drilled a hole through side of hull, fitted clam cover over hole gave locker a coat of bilge paint, job done
 
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