convert from in mast to slab reefing

deep denial

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A quick query: if a boat has been converted a few years ago to in mast reefing, how easy is it to convert back to slab reefing? Does it need a new mast track, and is it very expensive?
 

Tranona

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Depends on what the conversion was. If it is an add on like an Easy Reef then the extrusion can be removed and the original track will still be there, But if it is purpose built such as a Selden then you will need a new mast and boom. either way you will also need a new mainsail and all the gear for slab reefing. Rarely is this an economic proposition. Although the add ons are not brilliant and aa converted boat will be better without, boats with a proper in mast were designed for it and although the slab reefed versions may perform better, the inmast can be improved with a new sail for a fraction of the cost of changing the whole rig.
 

siwhi

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As the others have said, it depends on the system type. We were lucky. We had a pop rivetted on in mast furling extrusion system on our old boat, which was removed very easily by the local sailmaker. Easily drilled out and the whole system came away leaving the original mast with track in place. A new stack pack and lazy jacks took the sail makers a couple of days to make and fit. We put the original sail back on (it was in better condition than the furling one). I seem to remember the whole conversion back to original cost around £1200 for a 31' boat about 10 years ago (primarily including stack pack and lazy jacks, and the labour). In retrospect I could have taken it off myself, but I was ignorant of what was involved and anticipated it being a more challenging job.

We changed it because the in mast wasn't working very well and I couldn't find the parts to sort it out.
 

mrangry

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Very common to have an additional track (sparcraft and selden for example do have this) but do you use it for a normal main sail or for a storm sail? It’s supposed to be for a storm sail only.
It has been for the normal mainsail since 2006 with no issues
 

Elemental

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My boat originally had an in-mast furling system from Z-Spars - as fitted by Beneteau. Fortuitously, the entire rig was condemned by ZSpars after the mast froze and split one winter. I elected to switch to conventional slab reefing and haven't looked back. ZSpars, had previously confirmed that the section used in the furling set-up wasn't strong enough to take the loads of conventional slides.
 

Dan Tribe

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I removed an EasyReef add on system from my Selden mast. Best modification I ever did.
I drilled out the rivets and filled the holes with new blind rivets but Selden said that was not necessary, but it looks neater.
I just had to buy a new gooseneck from the Selden dealer at Foxes. I assume they are still available.
 

Crisby

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I removed an EasyReef add on system from my Selden mast. Best modification I ever did.
I drilled out the rivets and filled the holes with new blind rivets but Selden said that was not necessary, but it looks neater.
I just had to buy a new gooseneck from the Selden dealer at Foxes. I assume they are still available.
We did exactly the same on a Hunter Horizon 27 many years ago, converted to slab reefed main with a stacpac system, made the boat much nicer to sail and the stacpac was very simple to install and use.

Chris
 

dankilb

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Absolutely depends on the mast profile/extrusion. Not sure who made our furling mast - bits are mainly Hood so could be them or Spar Craft - but the extrusion around the furler is little more than a ‘fairing’. I cannot see it having much strength. There’s no track fitted, but if you tried I reckon it’d open up like a sardine can!
 

Stemar

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If you're going to need a new mast, I reckon you'd be better off getting the current system working properly and having a new, vertically battened sail - way cheaper, and little loss in performance over slab reefing on a cruising boat. You're also likely to appreciate the in-mast more as you get older, especially if the slab reefing can't be done from the cockpit.

If you're having to ask the question here, I'd strongly suggest talking to at least a couple of riggers before committing yourself to spending any money. If they all say the same thing, they're probably right, not just thinking about what's the best way to separate you from your hard-earned or following a bias.
 

Tranona

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Absolutely depends on the mast profile/extrusion. Not sure who made our furling mast - bits are mainly Hood so could be them or Spar Craft - but the extrusion around the furler is little more than a ‘fairing’. I cannot see it having much strength. There’s no track fitted, but if you tried I reckon it’d open up like a sardine can!
Selden mast sections for furling and non furling are distinctly different, particularly older masts and have a different internal construction for obvious reasons

support.seldenmast.com/files/1585034108/595-808v6-E.pdf
 

Elemental

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Never heard of that. Was blocked drainage the cause?
It was a few years ago (maybe 2013?) and we had a series of minus 10C freezes. ZSpars reckon that the drain holes froze over and then never really thawed out allowing a column of slush and ice to build up over a few weeks. It is, apparently, not uncommon in some more northern countries.

Here you go ....

SDC10857.JPG
 

deep denial

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If you're going to need a new mast, I reckon you'd be better off getting the current system working properly and having a new, vertically battened sail - way cheaper, and little loss in performance over slab reefing on a cruising boat. You're also likely to appreciate the in-mast more as you get older, especially if the slab reefing can't be done from the cockpit.

If you're having to ask the question here, I'd strongly suggest talking to at least a couple of riggers before committing yourself to spending any money. If they all say the same thing, they're probably right, not just thinking about what's the best way to separate you from your hard-earned or following a bias.
The main reason that I am considering it is not so much to do with performance, but because I don't really trust inmast systems not to jam at the worst moments. Am I worrying too much - do they jam when vertically battened sails are used?
 

cmedsailor

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The main reason that I am considering it is not so much to do with performance, but because I don't really trust inmast systems not to jam at the worst moments. Am I worrying too much - do they jam when vertically battened sails are used?
Learn how to use it and don’t let anybody else using it. This is my rule. I had in my previous boat in mast for 10 years with no problems. I have with my current boat again in mast (with vertical battens) and again no problems.
 

NormanS

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I have in-mast Selden. Works perfectly. I wouldn't have it for racing, but for a "mature" couple cruising, it's great.
 

Elemental

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Learn how to use it and don’t let anybody else using it.
Which is precisely why it should be replaced or repaired. On my boat, I have no space for something so sensitive to use. I want my boat to be useable by all, in all conditions, whether I'm on watch (or even onboard).
The main reason that I am considering it is not so much to do with performance, but because I don't really trust inmast systems not to jam at the worst moments. Am I worrying too much - do they jam when vertically battened sails are used?
I didn't trust mine. Vertical battens help with shape but Z-Spars advised against it on mine because the mast slot width was fairly narrow and if the battens don't go in precisely vertically then getting them out again could have been very difficult. I suppose, on a thoroughly modern system, properly set up and with a trained operator they could have a place (there are plenty of boats that sail with them). You have one already, so maybe keep it - it's expensive to replace the rig. But I don't trust them.
 

Tranona

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The main reason that I am considering it is not so much to do with performance, but because I don't really trust inmast systems not to jam at the worst moments. Am I worrying too much - do they jam when vertically battened sails are used?
No reason why the mechanism should jam if used and maintained properly. A common cause of jamming is a worn and baggy sail - and possibly battens. You need to be sure if you are going down the battened route that the section of your mast, particularly the slot will accept a battened sail of the weight and fabric you wish.

In your original post you said the furling gear was add on. Some makes of add on such as Easyreef were designed to take a battened sail - that is what he promoted, so leaving aside that the mechanism is not the best, no reason why a battened sail should give problems. on the other hand if a new mainsail looms the alternative of removing the the add on and reverting to a slab reef is possible - the original track is part of the mast extrusion. However you will need to consider the cost of additional hardware if you want to take the lines back to the cockpit.
 
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