Continuous Line Furling Single Handed

S

stevd

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Hi all,

Is it possible to use continuous line furling systems single handed? It is my understanding that both furling and unfurling needs to be done by the furling line. I am looking to replace my old system with a continuous line system but I do sail single handed quite a lot.

When currently unfurling the sail, it isn't too difficult to keep a little tension on the furling line whilst unfurling with the sheet, however, I would imagine it to be a little more difficult unfurling the sail with the furling line and keeping the sail under control, or is it easier than it seems? Obviously need to put on turn on the winch with the sheet but is a continuous line furler too much hard work sailing single handed?

Cheers

S
 
stevd said:
Hi all,

Is it possible to use continuous line furling systems single handed? It is my understanding that both furling and unfurling needs to be done by the furling line. I am looking to replace my old system with a continuous line system but I do sail single handed quite a lot.

When currently unfurling the sail, it isn't too difficult to keep a little tension on the furling line whilst unfurling with the sheet, however, I would imagine it to be a little more difficult unfurling the sail with the furling line and keeping the sail under control, or is it easier than it seems? Obviously need to put on turn on the winch with the sheet but is a continuous line furler too much hard work sailing single handed?
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I have the Sailspar single line system and have never had any problem using it single handed. It may help, of course, that my boat has a long keel and can be relied on to stay pointing in more or less the right direction while I pull furling strings. When furling a little tension needs to be kept on the sheet, but just pressing it between a leg and the cockpit seat does that fine, leaving both hands free for the furling line. If there is any wind at all, the unfurling does itself with some gentle pressure on the furling line to control it. It's possible to let the furling line run through one hand while the other pulls in the sheet (sing the self-tailling winch as a ratchet) but most of the time I just let the sail out as much as I want, then sheet in.

If you are thinking of the Sailspar, I can heartily recommend both it and the people who make it.
 
stevd said:
Hi all,

Is it possible to use continuous line furling systems single handed? It is my understanding that both furling and unfurling needs to be done by the furling line. I am looking to replace my old system with a continuous line system but I do sail single handed quite a lot.

When currently unfurling the sail, it isn't too difficult to keep a little tension on the furling line whilst unfurling with the sheet, however, I would imagine it to be a little more difficult unfurling the sail with the furling line and keeping the sail under control, or is it easier than it seems? Obviously need to put on turn on the winch with the sheet but is a continuous line furler too much hard work sailing single handed?

Cheers

S
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Why do you want to change to a continuous line furler?
To avoid overrides and reduce the tack height there are other solutions.

I have
-Facnor FD furler that is override free and low profile for my head sail.
-continuous line furler for code 0 and asymmetric

I can operate the continuous furler alone, there is enough grip/friction on the drum to operate without any special consideration for the "slack end".

My understanding is that a continuous furler is not well suited for reefing, for that use you would need to cleat both ends.
 
Well on that note, I have ordered it, and yes with Sailspar. They think they can get it to me as early as next week, and so far they have given me good advice, so I am hoping it is fairly straight forward to fit.

My only concern is that the luff of my sail is at its absolute maximum for my current system, which doesn't have a diverter, at least I don't think it does, so I am hoping that my sail isn't going to be too big.

Either way, looking forward to getting it. Thanks for the info. I will hopefully revert back with pics and info once fitted.
 
stevd said:
Well on that note, I have ordered it, and yes with Sailspar. They think they can get it to me as early as next week, and so far they have given me good advice, so I am hoping it is fairly straight forward to fit.
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Good luck. The system came with my boat, but Sailspar have been a delight to deal with on the few occasions when I have had maintenance queries. I have a much smaller single-line system on my wee boat (Hunter 490) which is a complete pain in the bum compared to the Sailspar.
 
No particular reason to change to one other than my existing gear is knackered, and the Sailspar seems to be good kit for good money, and with a lifetime guarantee. I was considering the Furlex 200, but I thought I would go with Sailspar because they are smaller and have given some good advice so far. They took the time to talk through it over the phone, I was just a little concerned with using it single handed really as I have never used one before.
 
stevd said:
No particular reason to change to one other than my existing gear is knackered, and the Sailspar seems to be good kit for good money, and with a lifetime guarantee. I was considering the Furlex 200, but I thought I would go with Sailspar because they are smaller and have given some good advice so far. They took the time to talk through it over the phone, I was just a little concerned with using it single handed really as I have never used one before.
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I don't know Sailspar but is looks like they know there business, seems the operate in UK mostly.
I see from the web site the the sell is as roller reefing, not only furling as others.

Make sure to get a little friction as possible for both ropes, friction here is your enemy.

Report back when installed :)
 
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Thanks for that. I think you are right re friction. The furling line runs through various blocks on the stanchions, so I guess I will need to arrange them so the line runs as 'straight' as possible. I have gone for their largest system, so I am hoping that the larger drum will make it easier to furl with the 'gearing' effect.

Thanks for the thoughts
 
stevd said:
Thanks for that. I think you are right re friction. The furling line runs through various blocks on the stanchions, so I guess I will need to arrange them so the line runs as 'straight' as possible. I have gone for their largest system, so I am hoping that the larger drum will make it easier to furl with the 'gearing' effect.
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The line on mine goes through three blocks en route to the cockpit and works fine. Unlike a single line system, the drive at the bottom of the sail always has the same radius, so you are not faced with the need for a colossal pull when the need for torque is at its most (full sail) and the driving radius is at its least. In other words, line friction probably matters less than with single line.
 
They supply 4 blocks as standard and you need to keep one fairly near to the drum, also worth putting a single block on the back end with shock cord to keep the rope under tension. The Sailspar kit is very easy to fit but if you get stuck they will always help on the phone, from memory the bolt rope needs to be 5mm so you may need to get this changed by your local sail maker. You will be very happy once fitted!
Nothing to do with Sailspar now but fitted many in my time.........
 
JumbleDuck said:
The line on mine goes through three blocks en route to the cockpit and works fine. Unlike a single line system, the drive at the bottom of the sail always has the same radius, so you are not faced with the need for a colossal pull when the need for torque is at its most (full sail) and the driving radius is at its least. In other words, line friction probably matters less than with single line.
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I was not talking specifically about the kit from Sailspar as I don't know this kit, but I have a continuous furler used for my Code0 and asymmetric.

A continuous furler will inherently have twice the friction points of a conventional furler
Friction on the lazy part of the line affects the overall friction and on top of that if the lazy part drag on the hauling part..

My first setup had bulls eyes on the stanchions and a double block at the end
I rerouted the line into an almost straight lead along the cabin - using blocks - the problem with this was lazy part sliding over the side of the block more than over the sheave.
Last change was to replace the leading block with the new selden guide for continuous furlers.
I also replaced the furling line itself because I found that it had grown in size adding more friction inside the furler. Today you will find furling lines that are made for continuous furlers with better cover.

The benefits of a constant diameter drum is as you say the force needed to operate is constant and on it's best all the way.
The downside is that you need to pull the same number of cm's for each turn, so having unnecessary friction adds up more.
 
merlin3688 said:
They supply 4 blocks as standard and you need to keep one fairly near to the drum, also worth putting a single block on the back end with shock cord to keep the rope under tension. The Sailspar kit is very easy to fit but if you get stuck they will always help on the phone, from memory the bolt rope needs to be 5mm so you may need to get this changed by your local sail maker. You will be very happy once fitted!
Nothing to do with Sailspar now but fitted many in my time.........
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A single block at the back end with shock cord is the key to trouble free working (previous boat). Wish I had one on my current boat!
 
I had a Sailspar furler on my previous boat - worked well but as I did singlehanding at the time I fitted a clutch to hold the line when hauling in and this worked well. At the time no-one did a clutch which could be dismantled and fitted to an endless line, until I walked into Foxs in Ipswich when the Rutgerson rep was showing a clutch which could be dismantled and I promptly bought it! I now believe Spinlock do a version which dismantles but you'll have to check. As mentioned, use a block on the end with either plenty of slack or with bungy cord.
 
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