Connectors for 'portable' solar panels

[bluerm166]

Where you might need to shift solar panel(s) from the optimum (the only fully effective ) position when mud berthed either to storage or to a sailing position have people found that using MC4 connectors (using disconnect tool) is convenient enough or have they employed another type of connector that is also effectively waterproof,reasonably easy to make onto cables,and easy to part ?
Details of your experience would be appreciated.

 

[RichardS]

MC4 connectors have always seemed to me to be an excellent waterproof choice, provided you use the tool as you say, especially with the 2-into-1 MC4s which are an absolute pain to disconnect with fingernails. :ambivalence:

Richard

 

[lpdsn]

MC4 connectors seem to be the way to go. They're not that cheap but you can get field installable ones quite cheap from Chinese websites. They seem to be pretty waterproof.

I'll have to get one of those tools one day as undoing them by hand sometimes requires quite a squeeze in the right place.

 

[Pete7]

Just to be different I cut off the MC4 connectors and fitted a bulgin waterproof connect in place which fits on the tiller pilot socket in the cockpit. We don't use the removable panel at sea or the tiller pilot in harbour so only one socket needed.

 

[VicS]

Just to be different I cut off the MC4 connectors and fitted a bulgin waterproof connect in place which fits on the tiller pilot socket in the cockpit. We don't use the removable panel at sea or the tiller pilot in harbour so only one socket needed.

Thar may be OK for a small solar panel but if you use an existing socket such as that how do you wire in the solar regulator for a larger panel?

 

[Dan Tribe]

The MC4 connectors that came with my solar panel were a clever design but not very robust. I managed to break 3 of the 4 [2 pairs] without any great force.
I guess they are designed to be fit & forget, not disconnected much.

 

[BabaYaga]

I also use Bulgin (Buccaneer standard 2-pole) connectors for this purpose. They work well IMO, water tight screw on caps on the sockets when disconnected. One thing though: They require a round section cable, whereas many panels come with flat type cable, in my experience.

 

[Pete7]

Thar may be OK for a small solar panel but if you use an existing socket such as that how do you wire in the solar regulator for a larger panel?

How big a panel do you were you thinking of? my portable suit case panel was 60w until sadly the wind smashed one side.

 

[VicS]

How big a panel do you were you thinking of? my portable suit case panel was 60w until sadly the wind smashed one side.

I was thinking a panel which is less than 10 watts and is within the 1 watt per 10Ah guideline is a small panel and does not need a regulator. Anything larger needs a regulator.

Normally the regulator would be wired fairly close to the battery but if you are using an existing socket there is no scope for that. You presumably have your regulator in the wiring between the panel and the socket.

Also using an existing socket means the isolator mut be closed and the domestic dis' board energized . Normally one would feed the solar to the battery so that the isolator would not have to be closed.

 

[Pete7]

Two fixed panels were wired through two PWM's as you would expect, recently upgraded to Victron MPPTs. The 60w suitcase panel wired directly to the battery via a the tiller socket and the charging monitored via a sterling battery monitor manually.
I also cut the MC4s off the other two panels when permanently wiring them into the boat as its easier to get a small cable through a waterproof gland that have a great big hole for the MC4.

 

[VicS]

Two fixed panels were wired through two PWM's as you would expect, recently upgraded to Victron MPPTs. The 60w suitcase panel wired directly to the battery via a the tiller socket and the charging monitored via a sterling battery monitor manually.
I also cut the MC4s off the other two panels when permanently wiring them into the boat as its easier to get a small cable through a waterproof gland that have a great big hole for the MC4.

so when the suitcase is in use you are tied to monitoring it manually !

 

[rich]

Try these guys www.kojaycat.com good quality fittings as used on motor bikes.water proof.

 

[laika]

so when the suitcase is in use you are tied to monitoring it manually !

Pete7 could well have something different to me so this could be irrelevant but those Bosch panel suitcase thingies tend to come with a pwm regulator bolted on (lensun solar told me they didn't sell them without regulators) so "directly" here may mean "directly from its own regulator".

fwiw mine came with anderson SB50-style connectors which obviously aren't waterproof, although you can buy rubber boots for them.

(EDIT: Mine is a 100W panel. Well, 2x50)

 

[BabaYaga]

so when the suitcase is in use you are tied to monitoring it manually !

Provided the portable panel is in use only when the boat is (fridge and other loads on) I don't think that would be a major issue.
FWIW, I have two portable panels, 80W in total, that come out for instance at anchor. They are connected directly to the batteries, no regulator. As long as the fridge is running, I see little risk of over charging.

 

[bluerm166]

Many thanks for sharing experience on this : MC4 seem the way to go although for smaller output panels I see the bulgin as a useful solution,being of assured quality and suited to smaller round twin cables.Not sure if voltage drop is a real factor when panel output is typically regulated right down anyway ?