Connecting instruments on switch panel

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Hi all,

My new (and I use the word in its loosest possible sense) boat has no 12v. I've stuffed some in to get me back ok but I need to do a proper job sometime. At school, we have an laser cutting machine, and I can easily bosh a switch panel together in the style of those units made by VicS and PRV.

The boat came with a Target Log. If it works (haven't yet tested) I guess it would be silly not to wire in, though I have to admit to not being overly fussed - I use Navionics which is enough info for me. I would, though, intend to fit a depth sounder. If the log works, it would look neatest to get a Target Depth Sounder. If it doesn't, I'll just probably get a clipper Duo.

Now - the question is - can I wire both of them to the same switch/fuse on the panel and call it 'instruments', or should they be separate and I then label them and connect them separately on the switch board? As the switchboard will be custom made, I'd rather get it right first time.

So - one switch/fuse/label for two instruments, or two separate ones?

Thanks
 
Hi all,

My new (and I use the word in its loosest possible sense) boat has no 12v. I've stuffed some in to get me back ok but I need to do a proper job sometime. At school, we have an laser cutting machine, and I can easily bosh a switch panel together in the style of those units made by VicS and PRV.


The boat came with a Target Log. If it works (haven't yet tested) I guess it would be silly not to wire in, though I have to admit to not being overly fussed - I use Navionics which is enough info for me. I would, though, intend to fit a depth sounder. If the log works, it would look neatest to get a Target Depth Sounder. If it doesn't, I'll just probably get a clipper Duo.

Now - the question is - can I wire both of them to the same switch/fuse on the panel and call it 'instruments', or should they be separate and I then label them and connect them separately on the switch board? As the switchboard will be custom made, I'd rather get it right first time.

So - one switch/fuse/label for two instruments, or two separate ones?

Thanks
My gps, log, echo sounder, compass light all go from one switch. However, i am always aware that a fuse blow would stop the lot.personally i would go for individual switches which also means that at times of power shortage one can have the essential item on . For me on the thames estuary that would be the echo sounder
 
My gps, log, echo sounder, compass light all go from one switch. However, i am always aware that a fuse blow would stop the lot.personally i would go for individual switches which also means that at times of power shortage one can have the essential item on . For me on the thames estuary that would be the echo sounder

how would that work with seatalk all daisy chained
 
how would that work with seatalk all daisy chained

Op did not suggest raymarine so the issue does not arise
However , since you ask, i do have some raymarine bits & there are 3 fuses in the system
One trip type breaker on the main on off, one in the ac100 control box & one on the atopilot wiring.
A second autopilot, also raymarine has a fuse in the line

Over the years i have had the breakers trip several times & had fuses blow to several individual items
 
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Experience is irrelevant; properly installed equipment rarely blows a fuse. I blew a main 250A MegaFuse many years ago when I foolishly shorted an alternator connection. Apart from that, no problems.
 
I've blown the fuse for the lighting circuit and the Seatalk a couple of times each, foolishly forgetting to switch them off before doing some wiring job. I've never had one just go spontaneously while sailing, and I would suggest it's a very unusual boat that fuses its sailing instruments individually.

For what it's worth, the fuses/circuits on Ariam are:

With panel switches:
Autopilot and Instruments (combined because Seatalk power is supplied via the pilot; the Seatalk circuit actually has its own fuse inside the pilot box as well)
VHF and AIS
Plotter / Radar
Chart Nav (ie the Yeoman plotter, its associated Garmin GPS, and cockpit repeater for same)
Navtex
Cabin Lights (has a dim red LED below the switch so you can find it in the dark)
Water Pumps (freshwater and shower sump)
12v Sockets and Stereo (sockets are switched, stereo is not)

Without panel switches:
Deck Sockets (switches in the cockpit)
Windlass Controls (master on/off switch in the cockpit)
Engine Bay Accessories (lighting, hot water overflow light, charging controller)
Heater
Bilge Pump (manual switch near the pump, plus float switch)
Fridge
Gas Alarm

The nav lights also have their own separate little fusebox next to the main one, as they are fused individually. Long cables squeezed into metal tubes along with moving ropes etc means the risk of a short seems high enough for this to be worth doing.

Pete
 
I would not use fuses but miniature circuit breakers which also act as switches. My boat's panels have them for every circuit. Instruments are all on one MCB and the VHF on another. Others cover the nav lights, interior lights, water pumps, the bilge pump etc.
 
I would not use fuses but miniature circuit breakers which also act as switches. My boat's panels have them for every circuit. Instruments are all on one MCB and the VHF on another. Others cover the nav lights, interior lights, water pumps, the bilge pump etc.

Same on my Benny too. but there is a separate breaker panel for the windlass and also different set of breakers for AC shorepower stuff including the inverter and chargers .
 
Same on my Benny too. but there is a separate breaker panel for the windlass and also different set of breakers for AC shorepower stuff including the inverter and chargers .

Same on mine. I did not list them all but a look at a photo of my nav station electric panels reveals provision for 25 12 volt circuits, with a total of 23 breakers installed plus two blanks, 3 mains breakers plus the mains RCD, in addition to separate ones for the windlass, bow thruster, and electric winch.
 
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