Cold Start on a Volvo Penta 2003

for a family of 4

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aluijten

aluijten

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Does anyone know how I can check if the cold-start trick for the VP 2003 actually works. The trick being that you first set full throttle and then pull the stop handle (and push it back) before starting. I presume something happens at the fuel injection pump, but can this be verified?
Reason for asking is that the engine starts difficult the first time a day, but during the day with little effort, even after a few hours.

Thanks in advance,

Arno
 
I have a 2003 with exactly the same problems!!

I am not too sure how you check if it is working, but I have been told that it opens the rack or a lever to supply extra fuel. After starting, this lever is returned to normal.

I have problems starting for the first start of the day, even using the cold start system. My way around this, is to keep the cooling water inlet closed, operate the decompression lever to decompress, then put the throttle lever fully open and pull/push the stop handle. Turn the engine over for about 5 to 10 seconds.

Next, open the water inlet, put the decompression lever to normal position, close then open the throttle to 2/3rds, pull/push the stop handle, and turn the engine over on the key.

I find that this allows me to start the engine within 5 seconds. For the remainder of the day, the engine starts with no hesitation.

Engineers have checked and tested the injectors, but told me that my engine has low compression. Starting the way I do, allows some fuel to help seal the rings and give a slighly higher compression. It works for me, so maybe it will for you.
 
Hi Philip,

Thanks for that, a few questions though:
Why do you keep the coolingwater valve closed at first start? Do you have an intercooler?
Does you engine produce any smoke directly after starting?

The thing is, I would expect some (diesel) smoke directly after starting because of the extra fuel, but my engine starts (and runs) virtually without any smoke at all. It just takes a long time to start the first time. I was also thinking about low compression, but wouldn't that also impact the power output of the engine?

Arno
 
This problem with these engines is one shared by all the earlier engine versions as well. Its not generally low compression ( try to hand start it- after a couple of turns I bet you`re compression is like a brick wall - even stone cold!)Without the benefit of a manifold or cylinder pre-heating system,and relying solely on an extra fuelling device, the problem is that its simply too cold inside the cylinders and needs to be heated by multiple compressions before it will fire,
by turning it over rapidly on the starter for 5 - 10 seconds. This is always followed by a cloud of smoke as the accummulated fuel burns(or half burns) off.One benefit of a long start is that the oil pressure is right up before the engine starts. Not too dandy for your downwind neighbours in the marina or moorings, I`ve been apologising for 15 years........
 
If you are not getting smoke on cold start with one of these engines it may be that your cold start device is not working.Check your manual for initial set up at the injector pump. Also check your throttle operation at the pump,I think the cold start device only engages at half throttle or above.
Cheers
Pete
 
I have a volvo 2002 and always found it took several turns to start after not being used for a while, thinking there might be a fault I called my marine engineer he explained the cold start procedure and it definately works, fires up first turn,
and he didn't charge me
Keith
 
I have a friend with a VP2002 in his Moody. It was a very poor starter when cold. We took the head off & I ground in the valves. The resulting increase in compression seems to have cured the problem.

He seems to think that I'm some kind of magician with engines.

Martin
 
I have a 2002 and it was also sluggish to start, the local VP engineer told me that I should move the throttle to 3/4 -full first, then pull the cold start fully out once, then start. Much better now, also it needs a good fast spin from a healthy battery. I get a noticeable amount of extra smoking for a short time after starting.
 
I think I keep it closed out of habit from having a directly cooled Bukh on my previous boat. The 2003 does have an intercooler, but the outlet water still mixes on the exhaust bend, so I was concerned that I might fill up the waterlock, and get water back into the engine.

Thinking about it, it would take quite a lot of water to fill the waterlock, so I suppose I am just being very cautious.

Incidentally, since fitting the waterlock over the winter, I have noticed that the revs do not get quite as high as last year with a straight through exhaust. I fitted the correct size as per the exhaust outlet pipe on the engine - 45mm.

Is it just coincidence or did the waterlock makes some slight difference in revs. The boat speed is still the same as last year, though this could be due to having the bottom slurry blasted and then epoxied. A nice clean hull.
 
This is the absolutely correct method

If you do it the other way round, that is pull the stop in and out then set the throttle, from experience, hell has a better chance of freezing over before you start although if you pull and push the stop it does help resolve the problem!

Assuming all other things are good the reason for the poor starting reported by others may be for exactly this reason.
 
Still being happy with all responses, my initial question was if I could check someting at the engine/fuel pump to see if the cold-start trick actually is engaged. Hopefully someone can answer this.

Thanks again,

Arno
 
The stop control and the speed control work through two concentric shafts which emerge from the injection governor housing. You can check whether they physically move but that won't tell you what's happening inside. If you doubt whether the overfuel internal linkage is working - and in my experience it is very reliable - you are faced with a strip down and examination.
 
We had a 2003 until just recently.

Following similar starting problems I had the engine looked at by an engineer whilst in France on year.

Result - superb and even after 5 years it would still start on the first press, summer or winter, even if it had been left for a few weeks.

It can be fixed!!

Cheers
 
Just resurrected this post.....

My Volvo 2001 starts excellently and has good compression (that’s the positive), but it produces a great deal of smoke on cold start and seems to smoke most of the time now. It seems to use quite a lot of fuel (1.5 litres/hour at medium revs), but doesn't appear to consume oil. In addition, it creates a bit of a slick on the water after starting - not good for the swans!

I haven’t used the cold start procedure with the stop handle for months as the engine seems to start perfectly well without it from cold - is that normal for a UK summer? Could the smoke be due to a jammed cold start? Otherwise the engine runs fine.........
 
Just resurrected this post.....

My Volvo 2001 starts excellently and has good compression (that’s the positive), but it produces a great deal of smoke on cold start and seems to smoke most of the time now. It seems to use quite a lot of fuel (1.5 litres/hour at medium revs), but doesn't appear to consume oil. In addition, it creates a bit of a slick on the water after starting - not good for the swans!

I haven’t used the cold start procedure with the stop handle for months as the engine seems to start perfectly well without it from cold - is that normal for a UK summer? Could the smoke be due to a jammed cold start? Otherwise the engine runs fine.........
 
I have a similar problem- starts very suggishly at the moment with very low ambient temps. Like you, I believe it is just too cold. The fuel also is almos frozen. Is there a preheat kit for the 2003.

Regards
 
I read somewhere that you can hear a clunk from around the fuel pump/stop arm on the engine when the stop cable is pulled out. This is how you tell if it is working...however! I can't hear mine...any ideas?
 
I find that setting the Throttle ful open then working the stop start several times gets the engine to fire at once Other method is to put an electric heater next to engine for a short time to heat engine compartment
 
The cold start mechanisim is located in the control box on the right hand side of the engine. When throttle is applied the pull stop pushes a spring loaded arm back, allowing the rack to move forward, thus increasing the amount of fuel supplied by the pumps and normally controlled by the governor. When the throttle lever is returned to idle the arm springs back into place. You can't see it working because one of the springs in the mechanism attaches to the control box cover. You can however hear a little click if you listen very carefully.
 
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