Cold cranking power for starter only battery Penta 2010

chrisbitz

Well-Known Member
Joined
18 Sep 2012
Messages
509
Location
Bromley, Kent - Sail in Medway
www.freyacat.co.uk
I'm confused by all the technicalities involved.

I'm going to have 2 banks of batteries - One for starting, and 2 100AH batteries for daily use.

For the starter, the manual says the starter motor is 0.7KW, but doesn't mention the CCA requirement.

I can get a sealed starter battery from batterymegastore, 44AH and CCA of 380 for £35.... would that be powerful enough?
I'm imagining that if it can turn over and start a 1000CC car, it can manage a 450cc 10hp diesel?

If not, what sort of CCA battery should I be looking for?
 
I can get a sealed starter battery from batterymegastore, 44AH and CCA of 380 for £35.... would that be powerful enough?
I'm imagining that if it can turn over and start a 1000CC car, it can manage a 450cc 10hp diesel?

There's a difference between 22:1 compression arriving in two lumps and 10:1 compression arriving in four small ones: the starter for the latter gets a much easier time. A CCA of 380 sounds just about adequate but maybe a little marginal (it's acceptable on the broadly similar Beta 10). On the other hand there's no need for anything but a regular car starter battery,
 
I've got the same engine... That battery will start it ok, *but* if you have any little issues such as, forgetting to push the stop button back in, or a filter blockage, or a very frosty morning, it will go flat quick! I would double the capacity if poss., it gives you a bit of wiggle room for bleeding and other normal occurences. cheers Jerry
 
I'm confused by all the technicalities involved.

I'm going to have 2 banks of batteries - One for starting, and 2 100AH batteries for daily use.

For the starter, the manual says the starter motor is 0.7KW, but doesn't mention the CCA requirement.

I can get a sealed starter battery from batterymegastore, 44AH and CCA of 380 for £35.... would that be powerful enough?
I'm imagining that if it can turn over and start a 1000CC car, it can manage a 450cc 10hp diesel?

If not, what sort of CCA battery should I be looking for?

VP do not specify a battery of any particular CCA rating ... For the MD2010 they specify a battery of 70Ah,

Basically any starter battery with a capacity of 70Ah will be suitable. Typically 70Ah starter batteries have CCA ratings in the range 540 to 750 A.

VP do specify the same battery for the entire range from MD2010 to MD2040, which is quite a wide range of engine capacities, so I'd suggest for the smaller engines a battery from the lower end of that range would be more than adequate while for the larger engines one of the higher rated batteries might be a more prudent choice.

Maybe a 44Ah / 380CCA battery will do the trick but why not stick to what VP specify ?
 
Last edited:
I'm confused by all the technicalities involved.

I'm going to have 2 banks of batteries - One for starting, and 2 100AH batteries for daily use.

For the starter, the manual says the starter motor is 0.7KW, but doesn't mention the CCA requirement.

I can get a sealed starter battery from batterymegastore, 44AH and CCA of 380 for £35.... would that be powerful enough?
I'm imagining that if it can turn over and start a 1000CC car, it can manage a 450cc 10hp diesel?

If not, what sort of CCA battery should I be looking for?

That battery does not have enough CCA, although it does have enough capacity. To give you an idea, a low capacity, high power dedicated start battery such as an Odyssey with a capacity of 28AH has a CCA of 695. However a "normal" car battery of around 70AH (such as Volvo recommend) normally has a CCA of between 5-600 which is what is needed for reliable starting. The big advantages of the micro batteries are small size and ability to mount in any orientation - but comes at a cost, typically 50% higher than a car battery. If you don't have a space problem buy a car battery and make sure you have a good charging mechanism to ensure it is kept fully charged. Having a means of paralleling or switching to use the house bank in an emergency for starting is useful.
 
That battery does not have enough CCA, although it does have enough capacity. To give you an idea, a low capacity, high power dedicated start battery such as an Odyssey with a capacity of 28AH has a CCA of 695. However a "normal" car battery of around 70AH (such as Volvo recommend) normally has a CCA of between 5-600 which is what is needed for reliable starting. The big advantages of the micro batteries are small size and ability to mount in any orientation - but comes at a cost, typically 50% higher than a car battery. If you don't have a space problem buy a car battery and make sure you have a good charging mechanism to ensure it is kept fully charged. Having a means of paralleling or switching to use the house bank in an emergency for starting is useful.

That's basically right, but cold cranking amps are not always exactly related to ambient cranking amps.
And often the question is not the lab performance of a new battery, but how it fares after 3 years or so.
Also beware there are more than one way of defining CCA, I think the US uses a different temperature and voltage.

Even the same type number of battery can have different CCA depending on the manufacturer, the one for my bike has 25% more if you buy a Yuasa compared to a Varta.
But in reality, the Varta was fine until 3 years old.

A smaller CCA battery with shorter wires because it will go nearer the engine might be just as good.
Any battery is only as good as what is charging it.
 
Have you considered the pre-heat requirements. I believe the 2010 manual states 10-30 seconds of preheat before attempting to start. If you go for a bottom end battery you may fairly quickly find yourself running out of juice. For an extra £20-£30 pounds, get the bigger battery.
 
Top