Q
quimby
Guest
What would be the result of replacing a faulty coil in a 2hp yamaha outboard with one of another make providing I can fit it beneath the Flywheel? motor is a Yamaha 2A
VicS
Well-Known Member
If you are talking about one with points ignition then it would probably work provided you found another from a points ignition engine that fitted properly
They fit with very small clearances between the pole pieces and the flywheel magnets. Special tools are available to fit them correctly
They fit with very small clearances between the pole pieces and the flywheel magnets. Special tools are available to fit them correctly
rotrax
Well-Known Member
Hi, the clearance between the rotating magnets and coil end pieces is very important.
Q
quimby
Guest
Hi VicS,
Looking at the coil it appears that there is no adjustment.
If there is it must be miniscule!
Worth a try?
Would be a lot simpler if I could locate a replacement coil though, anyone have one please!
Looking at the coil it appears that there is no adjustment.
If there is it must be miniscule!
Worth a try?
Would be a lot simpler if I could locate a replacement coil though, anyone have one please!
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oldharry
Well-Known Member
If you are sure its a 2A with the recoil start, Orca Marine had one in their store thursday this week - I was looking for a new fuel tank for my Mariner/ Yamaha 2. Mine has the wind up start, and the tank is different to the recoil start 2A - anyone got one Chichester? Yours is like my model 646, no recoil start, and a fixed base plate. the 2A has a moving base plate, and acheives tickover by retarding the ignition. No idea if the coils are interchangeable - the flywheels are the same.
Orca contact: http://www.orcamarine.co.uk/contact.html
Orca contact: http://www.orcamarine.co.uk/contact.html
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DownWest
Well-Known Member
I was left a 2A as part of a load of bits. Good history of reliability, but no spark. I assumed the coil was bust. Looked ok, no continuity from the plug cap to the block. By chance, I took off the cap and inspected the wire. It had retreated down the lead and was no longer close enough to the screw in tha cap to transmit the spark. Quick cut, refit the cap and now runs like a good'un.
So, worth a closer look at the lead before you condemn the coil.
A
Old H,
Mine is a 2A and is wind up cord start. The base plate is fixed with no timing change. Just a rather curious sliding plate to do with the throttle.
Remembered. You can alter the timing by moving the plate, but only on the bench.
So, worth a closer look at the lead before you condemn the coil.
A
Old H,
Mine is a 2A and is wind up cord start. The base plate is fixed with no timing change. Just a rather curious sliding plate to do with the throttle.
Remembered. You can alter the timing by moving the plate, but only on the bench.
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Q
quimby
Guest
Mine has lever in control face that moves the base plate ie advance /retard
The plug lead from the coil is sealed in the plug connector, so doubt that this is the fault, but will remove it and test it. It will have to be removed if I have to replace the coil anyway.
The plug lead from the coil is sealed in the plug connector, so doubt that this is the fault, but will remove it and test it. It will have to be removed if I have to replace the coil anyway.
Q
quimby
Guest
Will post photo as there is only a number but no prefix ie 2A or 646
DownWest
Well-Known Member
Mine has 2A writ big on the plate.
The plug cap is secured to the lead by a a spiked screw that also is the clip to the top of the plug. Shortening the lead and replacing the screw found fresh wire. No idea why it retreated or the insulation expanded(?)
A
The plug cap is secured to the lead by a a spiked screw that also is the clip to the top of the plug. Shortening the lead and replacing the screw found fresh wire. No idea why it retreated or the insulation expanded(?)
A
Q
quimby
Guest
Just rechecked and its a 646, I thought the 646 was part of the serial number!