Coachroof handrail fastening conundrum

LittleSister

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Our current boat has wooden handrails on the coachroof, bolted through the deck to matching wooden handrails on the inside of the cabin. As these interior handholds are very practical and aesthetically pleasing, and it provides very strong anchoring of all the rails, we’d like to do the same on our ‘new’ project boat, but I’d like some advice on the best arrangement of fasteners.

The arrangement on the current boat is that stainless bolts (6mm IIRC) go through holes in the inside handrail, through holes in the balsa cored deck, through holes in the underside of the outside handrail into a nut and washer sunk in a wider hole drilled into the top of the rail. This is then capped off by a teak plug in the hole.

The shortcoming of this arrangement is that if you remove the handrail inside, when you come to reassemble there’s a good chance that, no matter how careful you are, one or more of the bolts will dislodge the nut in the outside rail rather than screw into it, or screw into it and then just keep turning it without it gripping to clamp the two rails together against the deck. Then you’re into removing the external plug, which in turn means revarnishing, which in turn means sailing time lost, etc. Even then, as you can’t get a spanner onto the nut in the hole, it’s a challenge to somehow grip the nut sunk in the hole while the bolt underneath is being tightened.

So I am looking either for some different sort of fastener, or for some method of fixing the nut in place in the hole so it won’t turn, and can’t be pushed up, but ideally can move around slightly so one can get the thread started when there are slight differences in angle, etc., because of small variation in hole spacing, or perhaps a slight burr on the top of the bolt thread, etc.

Any suggestions?
 
Just what I need as well. I'm making a GRP diesel tank and need to set the nuts into the laminated flange so they can't turn. I was going to weld prongs onto each nut but these will be fine. Brilliant!
 
or studs?

You don't specify what happens to the bolt heads on the inside, but i assume they screw into a counter-bored hole in the inside hand holds and are concealed also by a removable plug?
In this case why not use the bolts the other way round? Insert into external hand holds and epoxy in place with cap over also epoxied so they become a permanent stud. So your outside rails have a number of permannetly fixed threaded studs sticking out. Place external handhold and then fit up internal handhold and screw on nuts and washers using a socket or nut driver. If bolts are too long, cut to length so that concealing caps can be installed.
Would this work for you?
Good luck.
 
Or you may be able to use some of these:
$(KGrHqF,!g8E6ZfyIOPhBOwY,k!mBg~~60_1.JPG

much beloved of flat pack furniture. I don't know if they do them in stainless though.
 
You don't specify what happens to the bolt heads on the inside, but i assume they screw into a counter-bored hole in the inside hand holds and are concealed also by a removable plug?
In this case why not use the bolts the other way round? ...
Would this work for you?
Good luck.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it some thought. On our 'old' boat', what I described as bolts are actually bits of studding in dome headed nuts that project below the handhold. I was hoping to improve on this in our 'new' boat by having socket headed (Allen key) bolts sunk into the handrails. The other issue might be a degree of flexibility is desirable to allow for slight variations in the spacing/angle of the various holes/fittings.
 
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Or you may be able to use some of these:
$(KGrHqF,!g8E6ZfyIOPhBOwY,k!mBg~~60_1.JPG

much beloved of flat pack furniture. I don't know if they do them in stainless though.

Thanks for the suggestion. I've assembled enough flat pack furniture, though, to know that they will spin so the threaded hole is facing the wrong way as soon as you look round to pick up your screwdriver!;)
 
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