Clear Anti-foul

Happy1 · 12 Apr 2003

I have bought some 'clear anti-foul' today for the leg, has anyone used it, or got any tips. It comes in a can, but I thought there are parts I should mask up before spraying it all over, e.g. those piston things, anode. It costs £18.99 for a tin, so I don't want to waste it!!

Thought it may keep my legs looking nice /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

<hr width=100% size=1> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

BarryH · 13 Apr 2003

Whats type is it and what one have you got on the hull. I seem to remeber reading a while ago about leaving a 1 inch gap clear of antifoul around the transom shield. Something to do with electrolytic corrosion. Might be woth doing a search of the forums!

Mask off all the rods on the rams and the anodes, sounds about right, altho I don't antifoul cos I keep mine on a trailer.

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Happy1 · 13 Apr 2003

It is Polymarine Crystal Clear antifouling (400ml spray can), specially formulated for outboard engine legs, stern drives, sail drives and bow thrusters.

I checked my anti-fouling, you are right, they have left an inch all round the leg.

P.S. I don't have all of those on my boat /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

 "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

BarryH · 13 Apr 2003

I should hope you do, or the dealers fogoten something else as well as the offset and hour meter!!!

byron · 13 Apr 2003

Take the can of anti-foul and sell it. You don't need any on your boat.

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BrendanS · 13 Apr 2003

He'll need some sort of anti-fouling or regular scrubbing, no matter what sized boat?

He's marina based, not regularly trailering.

I didn't need to antifoul when Thames based, just a good scrub every so often, but most boats based in sea marinas are going to need antifoul? or scrub often?

I'd be interested to know what he's already got on the hull, as many of the soft types may not be suitable for a fast planing hull that's trailered occasionally

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byron · 13 Apr 2003

Ah! I understood the boat was trailered dropped in used then brought out. Or maybe left in for the weekend or so. In which case anti-foul is a total waste of dosh. At worst you would need stick your finger over the end of a hose pipe and wash down once every yonkettyyonk. Even leaving a boat in for a week or two wouldn't hurt it even in a high growth area.

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Happy1 · 13 Apr 2003

Just to clarify things. I had the dealer anti-foul the whole of the boat with 'Interspeed ultra' which is a hard anti-foul, I was then concerned about the leg as that had not been done, and heard about the clear stuff, I decided to do it while i had the boat out of the water to take down to Poole. My boat is in a marina on a mooring ALL the rest of the year. I have looked at the bottom of some of the boats in Chatham marina and they looked very fouled, with th elegs looking bad as well. As mine is new it should be easier to keep it clean.

<hr width=100% size=1> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

Solitaire · 13 Apr 2003

There are two primary types of antifoul - although you need to know that most of the active ingredients are now banned under EU law so its debatable as to thier overall effectivness. The antifoul used on the hull is differnt from that used on the outdrive and is also the reason why there is an inch left around the transom shield - the hull antifoul (used?) to contain ingredients which reacted with the transom shield and legs. This area is prone to fouling and should be treated with the same antioul you put on the outdrive. A product called Trilux by International is perhaps the most commonly used, but as you have discovered, you can now buy product in a can - usually containg Teflon. Most fouling occures on the water line where the sun and water meet and it does no harm to treat the water line with an extra coat. Depending on how often you use your boat in the season the hull itself will remain farliy clear as the the water rush will keep it clean.
For the past few years I have used a product called Slippy Bottom, but have found it a problem getting it this year so have moved to another product called SeaSpay which has the same effect as Sippy Bottom - basically, the rmore you use the boat the shinnier the product becomes and the fouling just slides off - whats more it good for two years! Interspeed is very expensive about £85 for 2.5 litres. The Seaspary costs £45 for the same quantitity and in my oppinion does the job better!

I've just completed my antifouling. I scraped the hull back to gelcoat, primed and applied two main coats. Its a chore, but saves the build up over time. When I first scrapped the antifoul off my boat it must have had a about 10 - 12 layers - a real b*******d of a job!

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Happy1 · 13 Apr 2003

Are you saying I should put the clear antifoul on the 1" gap around the leg as well? I am off out now to ensure all the grease is off and mask up what I don't want sprayed. And why is this stuff so expensive?

<hr width=100% size=1> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

lanason · 13 Apr 2003

As a matter of interest my boat follows your original thort of going in only when being used. The boat has already been antifouled and looks crappy now as it was a qucik job - I wanna do it again just to look nice on the trailer (and on the plane) - so whats the best (and cheapest) and simplist solution...... Tin of Dulux sprang to mind - having spent all yesterday decorating the lounge ...... Seriously what is good looking as I dont care about its anti-fouling resistance

<hr width=100% size=1>Adrian
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Happy1 · 13 Apr 2003

Please note

I asked for tips on putting it on and where not to put it, not whether or not I should get it, I have already decided that and do have it.

Cheers,

<hr width=100% size=1> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

Happy1 · 13 Apr 2003

Definately NOT the clear stuff I would say /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

<hr width=100% size=1> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

lanason · 13 Apr 2003

a nice burgundy red sounds ideal to match in with Kelishas colour scheme - So your right - /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

<hr width=100% size=1>Adrian
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DavidJ · 13 Apr 2003

The hull antifoul probably does not contain copper so probably the 1 inch does not matter. However to be on the safe side leave the inch. It only means that next year you will have to rub the uncoated bit a little bit more to get the growth off.
David

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Solitaire · 13 Apr 2003

Yes - you should put it around the gap. It is not really a gap as such, it is simply that you don't want to let your hull antifoul touch your leg or tramsom shield. Before the EU laws came in, the hull antifoul contained copper which reacted against the metal of the leg - I don't think it does now but you can't be too careful.
As to why its so expensive - it a marine product and anything with the word marine in it costs three times as much as anything else. I'm convinced manufactures believe that because we own boats we all must be loaded!!!!!

Happy1 · 13 Apr 2003

Do I do the Prop ?

Could someone please advise me if I should anti-foul the prop.

Cheers,

<hr width=100% size=1> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

BarryH · 13 Apr 2003

Re: Do I do the Prop ?

Is it stainless or ali. It wont last long even if you do. I've never seen a prop antifouled

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Happy1 · 13 Apr 2003

Re: Do I do the Prop ?

It's titanium, does that make a difference? no it's ally really /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

<hr width=100% size=1> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know"

lanason · 13 Apr 2003

Re: Do I do the Prop ?

the previous owner of my boat antifouled the prop /forums/images/icons/mad.gif

<hr width=100% size=1>Adrian
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/kelisha>More Pics of Kelisha</A> /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

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