Cleaning electrical contacts

yoda

yoda

Well-Known Member
Joined
12 Dec 2001
Messages
2,494
Location
Tamar river, Devon
Visit site
Is there any chemical means (spray can type thing) of removing corrosion products from small electrical connections (at the mast head!) before I revert to mechanical means? Thanks

Yoda
 
I have tried many of the spray contact cleaners over the years, but have never found anything with the same long term effectiveness as a 'contact lubricant' which used to come in a pen-like device (with a long retractable spout-tube). I think it was marketed by VERO .... though could have been RS. It was particularly good on noisy potentiometer tracks!.
 
VicMallows said:
I have tried many of the spray contact cleaners over the years, but have never found anything with the same long term effectiveness as a 'contact lubricant' which used to come in a pen-like device (with a long retractable spout-tube). I think it was marketed by VERO .... though could have been RS. It was particularly good on noisy potentiometer tracks!.
Click to expand...

Like this. RS Contact Fluid, Made by Electrolube Ltd. Must have had it for 40 years.

DSCF1108.jpg
 
Last edited:
The method of cleaning depends on the amount of corrosion, for light corrosion any of the cleaners mentioned will probably do the job. For heavier corrsion it will be best to physically clean first and then protect from future corrosion using either 'Lanocote' or Contralube 770 also known as :'The Connector Protector' In both cases dont forcet to check the cable connections to both the plug and the socket as it is likely that there will be corrosion there also, especially if your boat like many others is wired in ordinary copper cable as opposed to tinned copper cable. If the cable is turning black you can attempt to clean with some emory cloth and again smear some contralube on the cable before re-assembling. In the worst case scenario replace the cable with tinned copper as this will not corrode so readily. I would also consider dumping the plug and socket arrangement in favour of a through deck gland with the connections being inside the boat and away from the salt water.


Dean
 
use a pencil eraser, as hard as possible, the type on the end of the pencils would be ideal. I have a 'proper' rubber contact cleaner which feeds the rubber like a mechanical pencil, hence my suggestion to use a turned pencil eraser combo.

Anyhow, if you can get at the contacts rubbing with rubber will work better than chemicals, if space is limited a micro file or scalpel might scrape severe corrosion.

Chemical solvents are very good on chemical spillage or similar, but not so great on corroded contacts.
 
Sorry VicS... Didn't click your links cos I couldn't conceive that Maplin would sell anything useful these days. Unless you want cheap radio controlled helicopters or ineffective disco lighting...;)
 
Once you have a clean contact, try a dab/ smear of vaseline - ordinary household stuff, it is great at holding off the damp. Always used it on cars and bikes, now in use on the boat.
 
MudShipper said:
Once you have a clean contact, try a dab/ smear of vaseline - ordinary household stuff, it is great at holding off the damp. Always used it on cars and bikes, now in use on the boat.
Click to expand...

Apologies for interjecting a question on someone elses thread but ..

I've often seen vaseline/petroleum jelly suggested for electrical contacts but I'm not at all clear if it is just to waterproof the contact or to make a better connection or both.
I used to cover the posts on the car battery with vaseline before assembly and it seemed to be effective both in preventing corrosion and giving good contact. But somewhere I've read that it's not a conductor.

So can anyone clarify this?

Thanks, Graham
 
Sinc said:
Apologies for interjecting a question on someone elses thread but ..

I've often seen vaseline/petroleum jelly suggested for electrical contacts but I'm not at all clear if it is just to waterproof the contact or to make a better connection or both.
I used to cover the posts on the car battery with vaseline before assembly and it seemed to be effective both in preventing corrosion and giving good contact. But somewhere I've read that it's not a conductor.

So can anyone clarify this?

Thanks, Graham
Click to expand...

Vaesline is not a conductor but it does not seem to prevent a good electrical connection being made.


I suppose clean the posts, make the connections, apply the Vaseline and then warm it with a hair drier or hot air gun so that it runs into all the gasps will solve any electrical contact question yet protect the terminals from corrosion.
 
Last edited:
Sinc said:
Apologies for interjecting a question on someone elses thread but ..

I've often seen vaseline/petroleum jelly suggested for electrical contacts but I'm not at all clear if it is just to waterproof the contact or to make a better connection or both.
I used to cover the posts on the car battery with vaseline before assembly and it seemed to be effective both in preventing corrosion and giving good contact. But somewhere I've read that it's not a conductor.

So can anyone clarify this?

Thanks, Graham
Click to expand...

You are quite correct in that it is not a conductor, but it sticks to anything and is very good at keeping contacts clean free from damp and oxidation. We used vaseline when fettling aluminium busbars as otherwise they oxidise before you can assemble them. If it's good enough for that, then boat electrics must benefit as well.
 
MudShipper said:
You are quite correct in that it is not a conductor, but it sticks to anything and is very good at keeping contacts clean free from damp and oxidation. We used vaseline when fettling aluminium busbars as otherwise they oxidise before you can assemble them. If it's good enough for that, then boat electrics must benefit as well.
Click to expand...

So I guess that when you assemble parts covered in vaseline, when they are tightened together the vaseline breaks down and allows the current flow?
 
I think what happens is that the grease/vaseline is pushed away at the immediate point of contact and is therefore not a barrier. This will be especially true where an interference fit or push on connector is used -i.e. Lucar, or where the terminal is screwed down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top