Cleaning crustations off the prop

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There was a thread on here recently about cleaning stuff off a bronze prop where hydrocloric acid was suggested but others thought that far too risky. Having spent the best part of £2k on a maxprop twelve months ago I'm not that keen to see it dissolve in front of my eyes! Has anybody a recommendation to remove small crustations and general pooh from a prop with no risk of damage to the bronze. Either chemical or elbow grease I don't mind - I was thinking of using wire wool maybe?

TIA
Rob
 
A hardwood scraper will remove most of it. Bronze is actually pretty hard though so don't be too afraid of damaging it. Just don't use a hammer and chisel like one guy I saw recently!
 
I've found a wire brush removes the easy stuff ,and the side of a wood chisel (not the cutting edge) scraped over the bronze surface deals with the rest without marking the prop to any great degree
 
I use my little angle grinder with a wire mop on it. I give the prop a good going over every spring to get the previous years anti foul off. It appears to simply 'burnish' the surface.

Nick
 
If you are interested to maintain a good finish on your prop don't attack it with a steel wire brush. It will clean it for sure but you will scratch up the surface giving next years molluscs a good footing! If you decide to use a wire brush use a BRASS one. As the other post says you can get them to suit an angle grinder and there's nothing wrong with that, but IMHO not steel.
 
You can also buy little brass brushes that are a similar size and shape to a toothbrush, that are ordinarily used for cleaning spark plugs, from a decent motor factors, and they are perfect for getting into the little nooks and crannies without damaging the bronze....
 
After the worst is off I like to use wet and dry by hand.

Start with course and work down to fine for a nice smooth finish. I find fouling is much less when you do this.

Perhaps more of the copper is on show to the bugs . Seems to make sense as antifoul base product is copper.
 
I apologise for not living up to your lofty standards of education, I regret that I am a mere simpleton. Whilst writing I would remind you that software which checks spelling is referred to as a "Spellchecker". I'd be grateful if you would hereafter refer to such functionality using the correct terminology.

With regards,

Robert
 
[ QUOTE ]
I apologise for not living up to your lofty standards of education, I regret that I am a mere simpleton. Whilst writing I would remind you that software which checks spelling is referred to as a "Spellchecker". I'd be grateful if you would hereafter refer to such functionality using the correct terminology.

With regards,

Robert

[/ QUOTE ]

Robert, I think your spelling is much more interesting, so pay no heed to pedantic posters.
 
After brushing, do you think there is any merit in spending 30 mins with a polishing mop & some compound?

- well, apart from the time-spent-out-the-house and Ohhh-shiney factor, natch.
 
[ QUOTE ]
There was a thread on here recently about cleaning stuff off a bronze prop where hydrocloric acid was suggested

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My suggestion. But my prop is just a lump of bronze!

BTW I spent ages with wet and dry removing deep scratches I'd made with a scraper 2 years ago.
 
Hi Rob, I notice on your website that you make reference to applying a single coat of a/f on the prop to see whether it would stay clean. Did it? Did the a/f stay on? What a/f did you use?

TIA

rob
 
Mark Grimwade, in PBO no. 395 (November 1999), wrote:

"To antifoul or not the antifoul the propeller? I've tried both, to little effect. Then remembering the Thames bargemen's trick of blackleading the bottom before a race, I tried it on Vetiver's 3-bladed bronze prop and it worked like magic. For the past four years I've had virtually no growth over the seasons and winters lying afloat.

"Black lead, or graphite powder - comes in the form of a paste for ease of application and can be bought in supermarkets and solid fuel stove specialists (a well known brand is Zebo).

"Use fine emery cloth on all surfaces of the propeller to give a smooth, keyed - but not polished - surface.

"Make sure that the prop is thoroughly clean and free of grease - you must even remove finger marks.

"Before you apply the black lead be sure to wear gloves - it's a messy business.

"Apply the black lead (I use and old toothbrush) and then burnish it to a high polish with a soft cloth. This is very important as the purpose of the exercise is to produce a slippery surface to which growth can't get a grip.

"Apply a second - ore even a third - coat, and polish, polish, polish. . ."

I haven't tried this yet myself, but will do so soon if I don't get deluged by dire warnings from forumites who've come unstuck with it.

Mark
 
[ QUOTE ]
The word is CRUSTACEANS!!!!!
Just for once, can't you use your spellchecks?

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I suggest that you check your dictionary.

Crustation - an adherent crust.
See also "encrustation", of which even you may have heard.

If you want to be a successful pedant, you really must try to get your facts right and I suggest that you be a little less strident in your criticism.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Rob, I notice on your website that you make reference to applying a single coat of a/f on the prop to see whether it would stay clean. Did it? Did the a/f stay on? What a/f did you use?


[/ QUOTE ]

I can't remember! It was a while ago. You need a small (3/4l) can of hard antifouling. Trouble is you have to abrade the surface to get it to stick which is rather self defeating. If you do try it don't use it on the shaft - the stainless steel needs to be exposed to O2 in the water.

Your best bet is to use the boat a lot. Even if your just down to charge the battery run the engine in gear

prop.jpg
 
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