Twister_Ken
Well-known member
Prop is coated in left-over wriggly shells. Anybody have a method of removing these that doesn't involve aggressive scraping or abrasion?
Cleaning a prop.
- Thread starter Twister_Ken
- Start date
FullCircle
Well-known member
Some sort of limescale remover? After all, its is chitin thats left there....
PuffTheMagicDragon
Active member
If you intend to remove it from the shaft, you could put it in a plastic basin and submerge it under a mild acid like vinegar, or Coke. Used to work wonders for the radiator of my Mini.
The nest of tubes inside the heat exchanger of my engine is regularly cleaned in a <u>weak</u> solution of hydrochloric acid, but this is more 'aggressive' than coke.
The nest of tubes inside the heat exchanger of my engine is regularly cleaned in a <u>weak</u> solution of hydrochloric acid, but this is more 'aggressive' than coke.
ccscott49
Active member
Hydrochloric acid, shift all the crap in seconds. Called ferronet in Spain. Or muriatic acid in Italy. or Agua forte also in Spain.
Poignard
Well-known member
I cleaned mine with a twist-knot brush in a small angle grinder. Didn't seem to harm it it any way.
hamblemike
New member
Cleaned the leftover shells etc from my props using B&Q brick cleaner. Washed it off reqularly with water and props came up very clean.
paulwitney
New member
Just scrape it off!!! By the time you etch prime and antifoul you're not going to see any scratches and the shell will return in 6-12 months no matter how carefully it is polished.
tome
New member
Blimey, call that a dirty prop?
I just use a sharp wood chisel to clean it up and then a light scrub/abrasion
I just use a sharp wood chisel to clean it up and then a light scrub/abrasion
Matrosen
New member
Unfortunatly, it removes the tin from a bronze prop also!
OK for stainless though.
OK for stainless though.
Ross1
New member
Scrape the barnacles off then use wet n dry paper to sand/clean the prop. Use a fine grade and finish off with about 1200G. Then just polish! the sanding with fine sand paper is fine. However large scrathes etc...(not too course sand paper) can provide perfect holding for the coming seasons barnacles and growth!
abdiel
New member
Hi Ken, I use a wooden chisell also then a scotch brite pad with brasso then I polish to a high shine with brasso and cloth.
Do the high polish through the closed season say one polish per visit. Just before the launch coat with copperslip grease, when you beach again you will be amazed how clean the prop is. Good luck , Abdiel.
Do the high polish through the closed season say one polish per visit. Just before the launch coat with copperslip grease, when you beach again you will be amazed how clean the prop is. Good luck , Abdiel.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
<< Unfortunatly, it removes the tin from a bronze prop also!
OK for stainless though. >>
Why do people who clearly have little knowledge post things like this?
1. 'Bronze' is an alloy. An alloy is a metallurgical phase with a specific composition, not a simple mixture of copper and tin. So there is no, or very little, free tin present.
2. Bronze is highly resistant to corrosive attack by hydrochloric acid.
3. Tin is resistant to corrosion by almost every acid. Concentrated sulphuric acid pumps use tin bearings, with the acid as the lubricant. Hydrochloric acid will not touch it.
4. Modern propellers have virtually no tin content. They are basically brass, with about 2% tin if you are lucky. That's why they suffer from dezincification.
5. Stainless steels ARE attacked by hydrochloric acid. AISI 316 contains 2% molybdenum to assist in reducing chloride pitting, wheras AISI 304, which does not, is more susceptible.
OK for stainless though. >>
Why do people who clearly have little knowledge post things like this?
1. 'Bronze' is an alloy. An alloy is a metallurgical phase with a specific composition, not a simple mixture of copper and tin. So there is no, or very little, free tin present.
2. Bronze is highly resistant to corrosive attack by hydrochloric acid.
3. Tin is resistant to corrosion by almost every acid. Concentrated sulphuric acid pumps use tin bearings, with the acid as the lubricant. Hydrochloric acid will not touch it.
4. Modern propellers have virtually no tin content. They are basically brass, with about 2% tin if you are lucky. That's why they suffer from dezincification.
5. Stainless steels ARE attacked by hydrochloric acid. AISI 316 contains 2% molybdenum to assist in reducing chloride pitting, wheras AISI 304, which does not, is more susceptible.
Twister_Ken
Well-known member
Vyv - so I can try Brick Cleaner, as long as I keep it away from the shaft?
vyv_cox
Well-known member
I would think that brick cleaner would do the job quite well so far as attacking the shell is concerned. Bearing in mind that we are almost certainly talking brass, not bronze, provided you wash down well after cleaning I doubt if dilute sulphuric acid will do much harm to either prop or shaft in the time it will take. What you must avoid is leaving acid in the crevices, particularly between the prop and shaft, where it will concentrate by evaporation and definitely attack the shaft and possibly the prop.
fireball
New member
I sandblasted ours ... quick, clean and easy ...
duncan
Active member
having bitten the bullet and gone down the lanolin route this year (that expansive grease stuff) I will admit to using hydrochloric on my SS props before the warming with a blowtorch / applying the grease..........
weather wasn't condusive to paint / antifouling the drive Sunday but I had to put the props back on 'cos I had borrowed the spanner!
time (about 6 months) will tell if this stuff really works.
have to admit props looked more like kens than tom's but that was after being attacked by a serious jet wash!
weather wasn't condusive to paint / antifouling the drive Sunday but I had to put the props back on 'cos I had borrowed the spanner!
time (about 6 months) will tell if this stuff really works.
have to admit props looked more like kens than tom's but that was after being attacked by a serious jet wash!
