Classic Rewiring & Switching

[Kristal]

As some of you may know, the second most ambitious improvement to Crystal I am planning is a complete rewire, and with it, a remodelling of the chart table to bring it into line with the rest of the interior joinery - at the moment, it's a bit flimsy and wasteful of space. I'm planning to replace all navigation lamps with LED clusters in traditional-looking outers, add another two batteries (should help with trim as well as doubling our power capacity), fit more complex switching and protection, an ammeter and voltemeter, replace engine control panel with something a little more substantial, and install a shore power & battery conditioning unit.

The original design used modern trip switches such as might be found on a brand new yacht these days - switch them on, and if they trip, they switch themselves off. However, I've just come across these Meggis Marine Switches which would really look the part in a mahogany and teak panelled interior. I can't think of any practical disadvantges to the push-pull system (and they would remind me of my classic car days quite wonderfully), and would presumably look very pretty.

Does anyone have any experience of such things? I mainly want to know if they are called "Marine Switches" because they are specifically designed to cope with a moist salt atmosphere, and not for some obscure aesthetic reason.

Expect many more questions like this as I think Crystal may shortly leave the water for maintenance and that will be the perfect opportunity to move this project up a gear. It is my vice to plan and never do.

/<

 

[LittleShip]

Re: Classic Rewiring &amp; Switching

I have just removed these switches from my boat and they are over 30 years old and still in great working order.
However I would say that if you are fitting them where people can lean against them (mine were fitted low down) they are not a good idea as they will easily switch off. fit them overhead or away from areas where people stand.
Good luck with the rewire

Tom.

 

[Peterduck]

Re: Classic Rewiring &amp; Switching

I started by converting my masthead anchor light to LEDs, then my navigation lamps, and the latest is my cabin lamps. When I get around to installing bunk lamps, these too will be LED powered. My battery's main task now is only to start the engine. Do you really think that you need to add more batteries?
Peter.

 

[Victorious]

Re: Classic Rewiring &amp; Switching

And the best place to get the LED clusters is.....?
Go on guys...enlighten me!

 

[Peterduck]

Re: Classic Rewiring &amp;amp; Switching

I'm in Melbourne, so my sources of supply won't be a great help to you, I'm afraid. I've no idea where you would go in the UK, except to direct you to places who supply the electronics industry or electronics hobbyists.
One further note about LEDs; the majority of the light comes out of the end of the LED in a concentrated beam. It's not evenly distributed all around, like an incandescent globe. If you're going to use the clusters mounted on a globe base, it would be prudent to make sure that the light is pointing where it is needed - out of the lens! I mounted my LEDs on a printed circuit board [PCB] in order to get them pointing in the correct direction. I also painted the inside of my lamp housings white for maximum reflection.
Development of LEDs seems to be heading toward widening the beam and maintaining or even increasing the light output. The earlier 'white' LEDs were actually a bluish-white, but now really white ones are available. However, you might have to search a bit for them.
Peter.

 

[wrr]

I have just finished a rewire and I have managed to avoid using too many plastic cable clips. I was able to source brass 'P' cable clips from vintage car electrical suppliers. Saddle clips were a bigger challenge but these were available in copper from Wrexham Mineral Cables, delivered via my local City Electrical Factors branch. Much more in character than moulded plastic!

 

[Kristal]

I like the sound of these - I'm guessing that sadle clips are those that look a bit like a horses saddle? The bit you would sit on goes against the surface, and is tacked in, and the cable is grasped in the two flexible bits that do up a bit like a belt?

If so, Crystal already has a few of these kicking about, and I shall order 100 or them...

/<

 

[wrr]

Not really, the saddle clips are like a single span bridge over a flat cable with a screw either side. Being soft copper, larger ones can be shaped to accommodate two cables.

 

[Kristal]

Oh, of course they are!! I've got about 50 of them already in the Bosun's stores. Silly boy...

Wonder what those ones I was talking about are - we have an abundance of them on Crystal, which will need replacing.

 

[wrr]

I think that you are referring to cable buckles. These consist of a strap with a buckle at one end and are fixed with a tack though the strap. These are usually supplied in aluminium with a brassed steel pin, so are not exactly suited to the marine environment! However, tinned brass cable buckles are still made, see: http://www.saren.co.uk/index.html. Again your local CEF may be able to source these.

 

[Mirelle]

A different approach

When we rewired Mirelle we used cable tray under the deck beams. It's galvanised, but not very well, so I painted it first, before screwing it in place (fibre washers between round head bronze screws and mild steel cable tray...)

Good enough for the RN; good enough for me.

Another wiring fad of mine is rubber insulated cable; more expensive and bulkier than PVC but less of a fire risk and more durable. Tinned multistrand of course. Clipped every six inches.

Ten years on, we have had NO electrical problems of any kind, apart from replacing the odd bulb.