Checking a teak deck

sighmoon

sighmoon

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With an insane amount of luck, we may well go and have a look at a boat (SY38) over the next week or so. The financial time bomb I'm most concerned about is the teak decks. I know many people say don't do it, but if I was being entirely logical, I wouldn't be buying a boat at all. In due course, I'll be having a survey, but want to have an idea before we get that far.

How can I check it's all OK? What should I look for?

In a video of a different boat for sale on youtube, there's some sort of poking ritual going on:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RS8b-PHwSmk (1:18)

In the photos, it looks like there is a place where the caulking has parted a little. If this leak goes all the way down to the (balsa cored) deck, is it likely to signify other problems? How can I tell if there is any problem with the balsa core?

Thanks in advance!
S
 
Check the thickness of the teak - has it been sanded back? Ensure all deck plugs are secure and not showing any black staining. If the balsa core has been penetrated it will feel spongy underfoot. Any missing or peeling caulking must be replaced. That's about it! Great boat btw!
 
sighmoon said:
With an insane amount of luck, we may well go and have a look at a boat (SY38) over the next week or so. The financial time bomb I'm most concerned about is the teak decks. I know many people say don't do it, but if I was being entirely logical, I wouldn't be buying a boat at all. In due course, I'll be having a survey, but want to have an idea before we get that far.
How can I check it's all OK? What should I look for?
In a video of a different boat for sale on youtube, there's some sort of poking ritual going on:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RS8b-PHwSmk (1:18)
In the photos, it looks like there is a place where the caulking has parted a little. If this leak goes all the way down to the (balsa cored) deck, is it likely to signify other problems? How can I tell if there is any problem with the balsa core?
Thanks in advance!
S
Click to expand...
I think you know the answer already but I will still join the "many people" who "say don't do it".

Aging teak decks are a time-bomb ticking away to when you will have nightmares about replacement and the cost of doing so. They hide all manner of rot and leakage into a grp deck and its core. A genuine teak deck is ponderously heavy and the weight too high for optimal stability. The only redeeming feature is the grip underfoot when wet or dry. And, of course, the snob appeal, if that interests.

It is difficult to always trace where the caulking is not sealing and the water will creep under the wood to the lowest point on the deck - entering the core where either screw holes or deck fittings are.

I write as someone with just such a teak deck and all the problems it has caused, and will continue to cause, unless I rip it all off and lay something sensible.
 
The HR next to us has just had his teak deck refurbished and re-caulked for the second time. The first time it took two workers 6 weeks (imagine the labour cost!) to remove x thousand plugs, remove x thousand screws, replace them with flatter lower profile ones and reseal each hole through the deck before re-caulking and sanding. The low profile screws are apparently sold by HR for this purpose suggesting this is a frequent problem. Unfortunately the caulking failed first time round and has had to be removed and done yet again although I believe at no cost this time to the owner. However, the boat was in the repair shop for another 4 weeks, right at the height of our BBQ summer. Prior to the repairs water was not only finding it's way into the deck core but down through genoa track bolts to exit into the cabin, so the repairs were not just needed for cosmetic reasons.

We viewed a Westerly Oceanlord when looking at a new boat 8 years ago that had to have the original teak decks replaced at a cost of £25,000. The replacement was a proper job and very attractive but oh boy did the cost set alarm bells ringing to me!

I cannot see any sane reason to drill thousands of holes through an otherwise completely waterproof deck, just to add a bit of snob appeal!

You would think too that with modern adhesive sealants that screw fastenings would be redundant. Well on our Jeanneau thankfully we only have teak in the cockpit and that has no screws, so it is obviously possible, but two brand new 'up market' boats near us quite clearly have screwed down teak decks. No matter though to the owners of these new boats as they sell them on after a year or two, but pity the poor owners down the line.
 
Barnac1e said:
I think you know the answer already but I will still join the "many people" who "say don't do it".

Aging teak decks are a time-bomb ticking away to when you will have nightmares about replacement and the cost of doing so. They hide all manner of rot and leakage into a grp deck and its core. A genuine teak deck is ponderously heavy and the weight too high for optimal stability.
Click to expand...

Seconded - with the added benefit of 20/20 hindsight :(

Barnac1e said:
I write as someone with just such a teak deck and all the problems it has caused, and will continue to cause, unless I rip it all off and lay something sensible.
Click to expand...

Ditto - replaced teak wih Marinedeck 2000 last winter.

Full horror story - see link in signature.
 
We have a teak deck on our SY36

Hello sighmoon

We've got a teak deck on our Sweden 36 and one thing I've noticed is one small patch that never dries out, which worries me a bit....It might be worth looking for such areas and getting a surveyor to pay particular attention. I didn't notice this pre purchase, so it might be worth two visits and taking lots of photos and comparing them.

I hope it works out - we love our boat so much - The interior is such high quality and externally they're hansom boats - people often ask if it's a little Swan.

PM me if you want a chat about buying an SY from someone that bought in the last 12 months.

Cheers

Geoff
 
Try to visit the boat after heavy rain, or if dry, hose the decks thoroughly. Leave to dry, then look at the deck very carefully to see if any areas are drying more slowly (obviously shade/sun will affect this). Slow to dry areas might well indicate points where water is getting into or between strips.

Examine every inch of caulking. You are looking for loose caulking, and points where the caulking does not seem to be adhering to the strips alongside it. Those are water penetration points.

Look at plugs over screws. Are they all there? Is there any dampness around them? Either will indicate possible problems.

If possible, remove some or all of the headlining below. Is there any dampness/staining on the underside of the deck?

How ridged is the teak? If very ridgy it implies that the deck has been heavily scrubbed and might need sanding back or even replacing relatively soon.

There are ways of replacing teak decks, and laying the replacement without screws (I've had it done) so if replacement looks a possibility, get it costed and get that money off the selling price of the boat. If the vendor won't play ball, walk.
 
It's more the rest of the boat that appeals. If there were any about without teak decks, I'd certainly favour those. Would it be feasible to remove the teak cladding entirely at some point in the future, or does it add stiffness?

Fergus said:
Check the thickness of the teak - has it been sanded back? Ensure all deck plugs are secure and not showing any black staining. If the balsa core has been penetrated it will feel spongy underfoot. Any missing or peeling caulking must be replaced. That's about it! Great boat btw!
Click to expand...

How could I tell if it has been sanded back? How thick should it be?

In the broker's photos, the plugs, and the deck around them are pretty well all black, or at least dark. The broker says that it had rained just before the photos, and the plugs seem sound to him.
Could that be right?
 
You can tell if it has been sanded back by looking at the deck fittings - these are rarely all removed (e.g. foresail track, area around the emergency steering fitting on the transom). If some of the the plugs show staining they should really be replaced but it's not a disaster. Personally I prefer teak decks but they do eventually need replacing - in my case it is something I am prepared for..
 
"Would it be feasible to remove the teak cladding entirely at some point in the future, or does it add stiffness?"

Yes, it would, and no it doesn't. BUT, cosmetically the deck under the teak is likely to be a mess, so some substantial making good would be required before painting, or you'd be looking at putting down some other covering material like false teak, treadmaster, etc.

"In the broker's photos, the plugs, and the deck around them are pretty well all black, or at least dark."

Oh dear.

"The broker says that it had rained just before the photos, and the plugs seem sound to him."

Well, he would, wouldn't he.
 
Just to add a couple more pointers. Look carefully at the base of any fittings that go through the teak. If there is heavy wear or sanding you may see a ridge around the base. The obvious things are loose plugs, missing or lifting caulking, signs of patched caulking and ridges in the teak itself caused by poor quality wood or wear from scrubbing. The "damp" test is also a good one. Try to view the boat when it has dried out after recent rain. If water has penetrated under the teak it takes ages to dry out and shows up as dark damp patches. If these are near through deck fittings try to find the inside to see if there is any leakage through the deck.

If you are lucky enough to find one that is sound then the way to keep it like that given your proposed pattern of usage is to keep it covered when you are not using it. £3-4k on a good well ventilated overall cover will be your best investment.
 
Not quick enough on the keys! See that Ken and Fergus have given same advice. I don't think you will find one without teak decks as that was one of their major visual selling points. Problem with stripping off and re-surfacing with epoxy/glass is that it becomes difficult to sell the boat as buyers expect teak. Viscious circle! To turn into a virtuous circle from your point of view, look for a boat where the deck has been done in the last 5 years, then you won't have the problem!

From what you say about the one you are going to look at, suggest you take your running shoes with you!
 
Tranona said:
From what you say about the one you are going to look at, suggest you take your running shoes with you!
Click to expand...

The one I'm going to see is about £60k, the others go up to about twice that. If I have to spend another £7 - £8k on recaulking and replugging, it's still good value. Or so it seems at the moment.
 
sighmoon said:
The one I'm going to see is about £60k, the others go up to about twice that. If I have to spend another £7 - £8k on recaulking and replugging, it's still good value. Or so it seems at the moment.
Click to expand...

I bought a yacht (Westerly Oceanlord) which had just had the teak decks replaced at the cost of £25K. At least the new decks are not screwed down - merely epoxied to the deck - in which all the original screw holes had been filled.

The decks are in V good nick, but I worry about them epsecially as we are about to depart next year for the Med, where I gather the sun beats the hell out of them. I am hoping that the modern glued down decks won't suffer in the same way as screwed down decks.

I would not be happy at all with a screwed down deck with all the potential problems of water ingress, let alone the need for replacement by the one holding the baby at the time of resale.

As others have said - smashing boat - but look else where....
 
Changes things considerably - however would be suspicious of the whole boat at that price!. If you think recaulking is possible then the key things to look for are sufficient thickness (guess it was probably originally 9-12mm) and the damp patches as they have potential for deck penetration which may not be repairable without removing some of the teak. That is where you need an expert opinion if you reach the next stage.

Good luck
 
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