Changing a counter top colour in Galley or Bathroom?

Tim Good

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Ok so the colour of my counter top is pretty dated. I'd ideally like to just replace it with slightly off white like you get in most beneteaus and seems timeless.

Other than actually removing the panels is there an easier way to do it in situ? I have the same issue in the heads.

Par example:

1476370_10152023440533162_833066212_n.jpg


And ideally like this colour:

bare-boat-yacht-charter-thailand-beneteau-oceanis-clipper-343-interior.jpg
 
Template surfaces with lining paper. Buy some Formica sheet and contact adhesive and get stuck in.

...although if you can get a seamless edge without gaps and cracks for manky washing-up water and food scraps to get stuck in, you're a better man than I.

If I wanted to do a pukka job with that approach I'd start by taking off the fiddles. Depending on what's under them, they can either be moved upwards by the thickness of the new layer or have a corresponding amount trimmed off the rebate using a router. The rebate will cover the edge of the new laminate.

If that's too much effort then it's out with the silicone to fill the gaps, but that never really lasts. Maybe slightly-thickened epoxy could be trowelled into the cracks, but I've never tried it. Still won't look as good as the laminate disappearing under the edge of the woodwork.

You also need to consider what happens around the sink cutouts.

Pete
 
Ok so the colour of my counter top is pretty dated. I'd ideally like to just replace it with slightly off white like you get in most beneteaus and seems timeless. ok

Other than actually removing the panels is there an easier way to do it in situ? I have the same issue in the heads.




I just finished doing the heads ,I used Polygloss two pack paint, I used a special spray primer used in the motor trade to paint plastic/rubber bumpers. One head I completed in Almond white ,the other white gloss. I am pleased with the result

The next job is on the Formica work tops although i will wait until you have finished yours
 
Template surfaces with lining paper. Buy some Formica sheet and contact adhesive and get stuck in. Ventilation important with the adhesive. Formica can be sourced all over the place but example below:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/formica-sheets-/121218076377?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c39290ed9

It is in my experience near-impossible to precut Formica accurately to complex shapes, and if you try and get it wrong during the sticking down phase you are in trouble. The normal way of applying it is to cut slightly oversize and glue on and then router off the extra bit overhanging the edges, using a router bit with a roller guide. Not possible to do this though on your galley unless you disassemble the worktop. You also have to deal with the sink/fridge edges with glue-on trim strip.
 
Did mine earlier this year. It was a workshop job I'm afraid. Having said that I found it remarkably easy to get the worktop out, all fixed from underneath. Once I had it on the workbench getting the fiddles off and doing a proper job with the formica was easy. I was even able to fix the sink and fiddles back in place and drop the whole thing in one piece back on the boat. Just needed a bit of trimming and making good. The fridge lid was a bit of a challenge as it had to go back in exactly the same place so that the insulation under the lid would fit into the fixed fridge box underneath. I did this by screwing it into place with two battens from the top. (didn't matter about damaging the finish I was replacing it!). Then on the workbench I fixed it in place from underneath to facilitate fixing the new formica, these fixings were hidden when it was back in place. I also had to carefully trim the lid openings with a router to allow room for the new edging laminate. All in all not too difficult once I made the decision to get the tops off and into the workshop. Good luck!
 
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Ha, if you are really really clever ( ie comfortable with hand tools) you can underscore the fiddle rails in situ, epoxy seal the exposed wood and then bend the oversize formica into recessed position ..Use a quality caulk too cos it will have to take all those years of edge wiping and solvents..Sikaflex innit.

Dont skimp on quality mica or it will stain prematurely!
 
How did you cut the formica to shape?

I used some instructions from the web ( similar link below ). The Formica can (and did) split on the first go. I also used a fine toothed saw on one bit and tidied it up with a flat file and some glass paper.As long as you clamp the sheet to a firm board it didn't seem too onerous a job. Just take your time. Use plenty of good quality sharp blades, changed often and a wooden straight edge clamped in place to score on several passes. Cutting oversize and routing the Formica back was not an option as I didn't want to remove the fiddles. I thought the finished result was pretty good - but that was 2 boats ago, so would have to look on the old computer to see if I have any photos. Apparently you can also cut the stuff with tin snips but it might result in a more wobbly edge if you are a shaky hand man. Instructions like these http://www.ehow.com/how_4870401_cut-formica-sheet.html
 
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Looking at the picture I thought the fiddles would be the worst part. However 'Hadenough' has already done his and found the whole top unscrews from underneath and can be taken home.
As that's the case I wouldn't even consider covering the existing work surface but replacing it. A sheet of Hanex solid surface would be my choice but it's expensive. Formica on either plywood or waterproof mdf would be next choice but a few months down the line I would expect chips to the edges. To trim the edges of Formica I would use an edge trimmer bit on a router.
Another poster recently used thin granite and reported that it wasn't too heavy so worth considering.
Take some photos and keep us posted.
 
We had granite fitted in our kitchen, awesome.

We have granite in our kitchen, but I'm not too sure about weight on the boat. ?

When rebuilding our fridge I managed to acquire some sheet Corian. Glued onto ply as a backing it can't be cut with a saw but must always be routed. Very nice to work with and with the right glue you get invisible joins. It's the way I'd go again if necessary.

The only problem is getting hold of the Corian as its a bit 'trade only closed shop...'
 
'Hadenough' has already done his and found the whole top unscrews from underneath and can be taken home.
As that's the case I wouldn't even consider covering the existing work surface but replacing it.

Just because Hadenough's worktop easily unscrewed doesn't mean the OP's will!

Pete
 
Laminate merchants can supply laminate, cut on a CNC machine to whatever complex shape you require. You just need to measure accurately and provide a suitable CAD file.
 
counter tops

we did it our way as you can see we didn't like all the pink
 

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