chainplates, rotten timber and three ways forward

RBH

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Hi,

I'm new here and already have learnt a LOT from previous threads, so thank you!
I'm hoping to get some advice from the forum on a chainplate issue.
She a 32 foot, new to me timber sailboat from 1973.
She is in otherwise lovely condition, but I had noticed a few cracks in the paint around the base of the backstay chainplate.
And so being a conscientious new owner I ground it all back and discovered quite a bit of rot.
I have removed some of it, but there is more to go.

As far as I can tell I have three options for repair and am turning to your collective experience for advice.

1. The quick and dirty repair (the one I know deep down that I should not do): Dig out all rot that I can reach, dry with a heat gun, wrap tissue (or similar) around the chainplate and then squeeze thickened epoxy into the cavity. Once cured pull/grind out tissue and seal around chainplate with 3M 4200

2. The semi quick repair: Remove the horizontal plate (what is this thing called?). Cut out all the rot. Dry out thoroughly. Wrap chainplate and then layer in fiberglass mat and epoxy in cavity. Once cured pull/grind out tissue and seal around chainplate with 3M 4200

3. The 'proper' repair: Remove the horizontal plate, remove the chainplate, cut everything out back to deck level and put in a new piece of timber (possibly using a lap type joint to transfer load to existing carling ). And then reinstate as above.
.
What do you all think?

Is there a better option that I have overlooked?

Can I get away with option 1 or 2 for a few years until I am due to renew the standing rigging (at which point I will pull all chainplates)?

Thank you in advance!
 

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Who knows ? If it's bolted through steelwork underneath then the visible rotted would could be filled.
If the rotten wood is the main supporting structure then I would replace the wood.
 
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Thanks guys!

So the chainplate goes through the deck and attaches to the sternpost.
The horizontal plate fitting (which I'm assuming transfers load forward) and surrounding pins are attached to the deck... well the raised piece of timber attached to the deck.
No Steelwork or plates under the deck.

The fittings are silicon bronze and timber is kauri if that makes any difference.

Thanks
 
The picture shows a GRP moulding with timber under? You neded to look underside to determine the structure.
 
Consider how you will feel when things get lively on a passage, will you be 100% confident of your repair?
It looks like a bronze fitting, so presumably a quality built yacht.
I would assume there is some sort of vertical strap bolted to the hull internally, not just the deck bolts we can see. If the bits we can see are cosmetic trim then you may be OK with a quick repair.
 
Can I get away with option 1 or 2 for a few years until I am due to renew the standing rigging (at which point I will pull all chainplates)?

Welcome to the forums!

Bearing in mind you've just found concealed rot, I'd be eager to look at whether there's concealed rot elsewhere affecting major load-bearing items. So it might be best to check all the chainplates now.
 
Is she a recognised make, because if there are others of her breed then there may be others who have already met the same problem. You need more details to track down those who know unlike me, who would merely speculate.
 
The real question is 'What is the chain plate bolted onto and is there any sign of rot in that?' What's underneath the deck at that point? What is the chainplate actually bolted onto?

Good point, the actual chainplate attaches to the sternpost on the vertical.
This is rock soild, so I think I have caught it it time.
And yes the decks and cabintop are glass over ply.
 
Ah, a Townson 32 from 1973, built by Bill Townson. The boat looks good, but I'd still want to be assured that there isn't rot lurking in important places.

Yes indeed! She is beautifully built, but I take your point and will bring forward my maintenance programme, pull all the chainplates now and do the repair properly.
 
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