Chain joiners....new query

Spuddy

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During the recent thread on this topic I bought an 8mm link + certificate from the theatrical suppliers(forgot name). I couldn't really tell from the pic if it would go down my hawsepipe but thought it worth a punt. Sure nuff, it won't go down! I've looked thro the thread incl Vyv Cox' helpful site but I'm still at a loss as to what to use. Are there any of c links that fit back to back and then need rivetting that are any good ?
I'll scrape the money together to buy one length of chain if it's unavoidable but if there's a product that isn't chubbier than the chain and has sufficient strength then I can spend the money on summat else instead.
 

john_morris_uk

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During the recent thread on this topic I bought an 8mm link + certificate from the theatrical suppliers(forgot name). I couldn't really tell from the pic if it would go down my hawsepipe but thought it worth a punt. Sure nuff, it won't go down! I've looked thro the thread incl Vyv Cox' helpful site but I'm still at a loss as to what to use. Are there any of c links that fit back to back and then need rivetting that are any good ?
I'll scrape the money together to buy one length of chain if it's unavoidable but if there's a product that isn't chubbier than the chain and has sufficient strength then I can spend the money on summat else instead.
Like an idiot - don't tell me I already know - I thought I knew what chain I had without measuring it.

The end result is that I bought an 8mm link and now find I need a 10mm link.

This means that if you want a load certified 8mm link which will join the chain together and still allow it to go down your hawsepipe etc, let me know and you can have it at cost to me etc.
 

Spuddy

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John, you're a gent - but I knew that already.
I'll PM you my address and send a cheque when you let me know yours.
Thanks
 

vyv_cox

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During the recent thread on this topic I bought an 8mm link + certificate from the theatrical suppliers(forgot name). I couldn't really tell from the pic if it would go down my hawsepipe but thought it worth a punt. Sure nuff, it won't go down! I've looked thro the thread incl Vyv Cox' helpful site but I'm still at a loss as to what to use. Are there any of c links that fit back to back and then need rivetting that are any good ?
I'll scrape the money together to buy one length of chain if it's unavoidable but if there's a product that isn't chubbier than the chain and has sufficient strength then I can spend the money on summat else instead.

Skipper Stu is intending to obtain more but as has been shown by the recent interest it's a process that consumes a lot of his time. I will put his details on my website when something happens.

Otherwise as a temporary measure I would use one of the West Marine ones like these. I didn't test these AFAIK but the figures look OK. I would quiz them hard about exactly what they are selling.
 

Poignard

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Otherwise as a temporary measure I would use one of the West Marine ones like these.

:confused:

I can't see how that type of link can be anywhere near as strong as the chain it is joining because in four places the diameter of the material is reduced by 50%. The only way the full strength of the chain might be maintained is by making the joining link of high-tensile steel but if that was done it would not be soft enough for rivetting.

If I am wrong, can you, or anyone else, please explain why I am wrong.
 

Heckler

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Got mine. Once it's in place between two lengths of chain, it's not going to be easy to hit the pointy bits hard with a hammer unless some sort of punch is used. Or am I being a wimp?
Thats what Vyv advocates, some sort of punch. Ive got a drill press vice that Im going to use to hold the vertical links each side of the joiner and let the joiner rest on the edges of the jaws to absorb the blow.
Stu
 

vyv_cox

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:confused:

I can't see how that type of link can be anywhere near as strong as the chain it is joining because in four places the diameter of the material is reduced by 50%. The only way the full strength of the chain might be maintained is by making the joining link of high-tensile steel but if that was done it would not be soft enough for rivetting.

If I am wrong, can you, or anyone else, please explain why I am wrong.

Look at this page of my site for the full info. Two C-links were as strong as the chain, which itself was well over minimum specification. They are made of Q&T steel which makes them quite difficult to make up. If the rivets are soft the link will be too - only about 50% of the chain strength.

When I made them up during the test series I used a good hammer, at least 2 lb but probably more. Gripping the C-link with a mole wrench helps to hold it on the edge of the block or vice. I then used a steel drift, about 3/4 inch square, six inches long. I'm pretty good with a hammer (legacy of O-level metalwork) but if you are not you might like to borrow someone who is. They take some welly to make up.
 

prv

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Ive got a drill press vice that Im going to use to hold the vertical links each side of the joiner and let the joiner rest on the edges of the jaws to absorb the blow.

Cheers, good plan!

My metalwork vice is on a piece of wood that clamps into my woodwork vice (don't have space for both) so it's not really solid enough for serious hammering.

Not sure what to use as a punch.

Pete
 

Pinnacle

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Well, I made mine up at the weekend.:) I am surprised everyone in Haslar didn't come to see what all the noise was.:eek:

I used a sledgehammer head as the "anvil" and used a biggish hammer to beat the thing. Put some glue in between the halves first. Got SWMBO to hold the chain in place while I swung the hammer. ( Smart, eh? ;) )

Really pleased with the result! :D

Many thanks to all for the research/procurement.

ps - It will be really interesting to read how to do it in PBO.
 
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