Scotty_Tradewind
Active member
What's the best joiner to use for joining two 30metre lengths of chain pl's
ta
S.
ta
S.
Chain join/joiner for going through windlass-pl's advise
- Thread starter Scotty_Tradewind
- Start date
greenalien
New member
Ideally, of course, a proper chain link is the best option - cut a slot in an old link, bend it open just sufficiently to fit the 2 new links in, then close it up and weld it. You would need to test the weld to be sure the link is sound, most professional riggers will be able to arrange that as they have the appropriate measuring kit. Unless you want to have the whole chain regalvanised, protecting the link with zinc-rich anti-corrosion paint and reapplying it regularly as needed should give you a long-lasting solution.
If you only need a temporary join, a suitably sized shackle will do, but might jam on the windlass - depends on the shackle - worth a try, but the shackle may not be as strong as the chain.
If you only need a temporary join, a suitably sized shackle will do, but might jam on the windlass - depends on the shackle - worth a try, but the shackle may not be as strong as the chain.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
I think you know that I tested many of these a few years ago. All the results are on my website here. Since then some things have changed. Crosby links are still good but the supplier in Leeds has instituted a £100 minimum charge. Skipper Stu sometimes has them for sale, dependent upon demand.
The manufacture of ACCO links was transferred from USA to Taiwan and for a while the links shown on my site as 'G30 China 5/16' were sold by West Marine as ACCO. Although one of these held a good force the other did not and the make-up hammering showed them not to be hardened. West subsequently withdrew them when a forumite pointed out that they were not the real thing.
The ones currently being sold by West Marine appear to be the genuine article. I shall be testing some in the not-too-distant future.
There is no way I would trust any welder to produce a guaranteed strong butt-weld in a chain link.
The manufacture of ACCO links was transferred from USA to Taiwan and for a while the links shown on my site as 'G30 China 5/16' were sold by West Marine as ACCO. Although one of these held a good force the other did not and the make-up hammering showed them not to be hardened. West subsequently withdrew them when a forumite pointed out that they were not the real thing.
The ones currently being sold by West Marine appear to be the genuine article. I shall be testing some in the not-too-distant future.
There is no way I would trust any welder to produce a guaranteed strong butt-weld in a chain link.
Scotty_Tradewind
Active member
thanks for the update Vyv....
greenalien
New member
Absolutely, which is why subsequent testing of a welded link is essential.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
Perhaps the biggest concern is welding a galvanised link. Zinc in the weld pool can cause embrittlement, so it must all be removed. I suspect that by the time this was done, then welded by a certificated welder, plus testing, it would be a lot cheaper to buy a C-link.
vyv_cox
Well-known member
I found the same thing. When I first bought a windlass I tried the chain I had before buying new. It was three totally different pieces joined with C-links, a long time before I knew much about them. After doing the testing I decided to replace the chain and found that one of the C-links was far bigger than the chain, almost 1.5 times as long. It had been going through the windlass without problems for a couple of years.
cliff
Active member
Your perogative - I prefer to use welded links but there again I know what I am doing when it comes to welding and know my limitations. i have tested several self welded links in the dark days when I ran a materials test facility and found the subject welds satisfactory insofar as original welds broke before mine.
Not essential - not all welds need testing - following a qualified procedure and subsequent NDT should be all that is needed. Remember you will rip your cleats out of the deck before you come anywhere near the breaking strain of your chain
Agree about the zink - need to make sure the weld area is free of all traces of zinc but 5~10 mins of my time, a puff of argon and a bit of filler wire is a lot cheaper than a c-link.
Bosun Higgs
N/A
I havent found a good way. I bought one of Skipper Stu's links ( after I had been warned by the distributor that they usually got problems fitting them to 8mm short link chain) and true to warning I did get problems. Basically the link, which was a sound design, was a bit too fat to fit into the chain freely and whilst I did fit it in the end ( took a dremel to the embossed name etc) I found that that bit of the chain didnt articulate properly through the gypsy.
No criticism of Skipper Stu who was very helpful and nothing wrong with the link itself except that its basic design made it a different size and thickness to all the other links of the chain. For what it cost me, it was worth ignoring the warning and trying a link but I couldnt recommend them to anyone else.
No criticism of Skipper Stu who was very helpful and nothing wrong with the link itself except that its basic design made it a different size and thickness to all the other links of the chain. For what it cost me, it was worth ignoring the warning and trying a link but I couldnt recommend them to anyone else.