Centre mooring cleats / fairleads for single-handing ?

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Boo2

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Hi,

I'm thinking of adding central fairleads / mooring cleats as an aid to parking when single-handing and wondered if anyone here has tried them and has an opinion ?

I assume that the best place for central cleats/fairleads is the point of maximum beam so as to give the best ability to pivot the boat using the engine ? My boat has some spare cleats on the cockpit coamings that predate the current self-tailing winches so I think I can get away with fairleads instead of cleats but cleats might be better for springs, comments anyone ?

SL Yachting have closed and open type fairleads, also a useful looking spring cleat which looks ideal for bolting to the toerail. Seascrew do a Central Terminal fairlead with rollers which looks OK, if a bit complicated and maybe harder to fit.

Any concrete recommendations or general comments as to things I've missed or the general utility of what I'm trying to do would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Boo2
 
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Boo2 said:
Hi,

I'm thinking of adding central fairleads / mooring cleats as an aid to parking when single-handing and wondered if anyone here has tried them and has an opinion ?

I assume that the best place for central cleats/fairleads is the point of maximum beam so as to give the best ability to pivot the boat using the engine ? My boat has some spare cleats on the cockpit coamings that predate the current self-tailing winches so I think I can get away with fairleads instead of cleats but cleats might be better for springs, comments anyone ?

SL Yachting[/URL] have closed and open type fairleads, also a useful looking spring cleat which looks ideal for bolting to the toerail. Seascrew do a Central Terminal fairlead with rollers which looks OK, if a bit complicated and maybe harder to fit.

Any concrete recommendations or general comments as to things I've missed or the general utility of what I'm trying to do would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Boo2
Click to expand...

very usefull in locks as well, tie on quick n short then use the engine to control the boat
 
Old Troll

I often sail single handed and use the jib sheet cars as mobile leads for mooring alongside. This method has been effective but then my boat is not a heavyweight being a Vega 27.
 
I have Barton cleats that clamp onto the genoa track.

http://www.bartonmarine.com/products-special-cleats.asp

They are very useful for berthing alongside. I make a bowline in the end of a rope lead it round the front horn of the cleat and back to the cockpit where it is passed a couple of times round a sheet winch.

When I come alongside the bowline is dropped over a pontoon cleat, the slack is taken up on the line and the end belayed round a cleat near the winch, the engine put to slow ahead and the tiller held over towards the pontoon with a loop of shockcord.

The boat wil sit happily like that for as long as you like whilst you secure the other shore lines.
 
One of the first things I did when I got my boat 21 years ago, was to fit Centre cleats, I use one every time I return to my jetty, line with eye splice is fitted to jetty, when I go along side I just pick up the eye splice, drop it over the centre cleat and then manouver the boat so that I can step ashore and attach berthing lines.
When I go along side strange jetty's, I always secure a line to the centre cleat, secure other end of line ashore and then you can controll the boat on that line.
If fitting with bolts through deck, do back it up from inside to spread the load.
 
I suggest before you fit any new cleats or fairleads you try experimenting with lines round stanchions (gently), or from a line stretched bow to stern, in different positions fore and aft, to ensure you get the cleat in the right place for your boat.

We have no centre cleats, but do have 'centre' fairleads, and I take a doubled line through either of those and back to the cleats at the cockpit (though I'm always worried that the rope may jump out under load). However, I have experimented trying to hold the boat against a pontoon using a spring through this centre fairlead, but I can't keep the stern in - it just drives the boat round the fairlead so the bow is in and the stern is out, whatever the rudder position is (we do have a long-keeler, though).
 
LittleSister said:
I suggest before you fit any new cleats or fairleads you try experimenting with lines round stanchions (gently), or from a line stretched bow to stern, in different positions fore and aft, to ensure you get the cleat in the right place for your boat.

We have no centre cleats, but do have 'centre' fairleads, and I take a doubled line through either of those and back to the cleats at the cockpit (though I'm always worried that the rope may jump out under load). However, I have experimented trying to hold the boat against a pontoon using a spring through this centre fairlead, but I can't keep the stern in - it just drives the boat round the fairlead so the bow is in and the stern is out, whatever the rudder position is (we do have a long-keeler, though).
Click to expand...

That is strange. My boat is also a long-keeler (with a small rudder) yet it works fine. I'd suggest your midship fairlead needs to be moved aft but you say you have experimented.
 
I find it the best cleat onboard. When coming into a mooring its ideal to fasten your first throwing line to, then if the person taking the line is over eager you still have control of your steering.
Also as already said its ideal in locks, once taken around a bollard and returned to you you once again have full control of how your boat lies. Fit one but mke sure its very secure with a good backing plate as its going to get a lot of use in future.
 
I have never tried using the midship spring in a lock but I like the idea.

Once you have secured the midship line do you put bow and stern lines on or is the midship line enough?
 
It sounds as though you have a YS toerail which is what is fitted to my boat. I experimented last year by fitting a large s/s shackle to one of the holes in the toerail to act as a centre cleat which worked well. It might be worth trying this first. At least you can use it to gauge the correct position of the cleats when you finally buy them.
 
Boo2 said:
Hi,

I'm thinking of adding central fairleads / mooring cleats as an aid to parking when single-handing and wondered if anyone here has tried them and has an opinion ?


Any concrete recommendations or general comments as to things I've missed or the general utility of what I'm trying to do would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Boo2
Click to expand...

For single handed sailing - ie coming alongside, absolutely vital. Go for it.

A useful trick is to run a line from the aft cleat to the middle with a measure of slack in it, so that when coming alongside a pontoon with open cleat (not one of these useless ring devices) you can reach over and drop the line to secure the boat. Then hop over and make tight. Also very useful in a lock to secure the boat.

PWG
 
Whilst testing for exact positions for the cleat secure a warp to the bow cleat and lead aft to about the midship position and tie a small bowline in its end. Secure a second warp aft and pass the end through the bowline ,and lead the warp end outside the lifelines to about the stern position and tie a bowline large enough to go over the pontoon cleat.
Now practice the method described above of dropping the stern bowline on the pontoon cleat with the engine in forward gear on tickover revs. When stopped, step ashore and secure the bow warp, then the stern line; stop engine and fit a forward spring through the centre bowline.

We have no centre cleats on the Tiger so setting springs either has to be done from the bow to the aft cleat on a pontoon, and a second from the stern cleat to the forward cleat on the pontoon; however recently we have been to Cowes marinas where there are centre cleats fitted to the pontoon.
In this case I secure a long spring from the bow cleat to the centre cleat on the pontoon and take the remainder of the spring to the aft cleat aboard and secure there.
May not be 'right' but it works OK for springing off if needed.

ianat182
 
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The cleats mentioned by Parsifal which clamp to the genoa tracks are ideal, adjustable too !

Not particularly cheap, but hopefully you'll only buy a pair once...very useful.
 
I don't have centre cleats but instead have a line led through a large block which can be snap shackled to a centre stanchion foot. The idea is that when coming alongside the quay, or pontoon, the doubled line can be fed through a ring or round a bollard / cleat which holds the boat in place and gives sufficient time to sort out bow /stern lines and springs if wanted. There is never a huge strain on this central line so attachment to a stanchion is safe.
 
I have an alu toerail with holes and experimented by clipping in a climbing Krab. For securing after arriving and stopping, midships worked OK but I wanted to be able to drop a line over a cleat when arriving single-handed without the back end sashaying out sideways. The final position is quite a way further aft than I would have thought and I reckon it's essential for me. Still using the Krab and haven't fitted a cleat.
 
There is no doubt centre cleats are so useful they ane very close to essential on almost any boat. Winches on the cockpit coming are useful but in the end a poor substitute.
 
I didn't have them for some time, as I thought I might trip on them or they would snag on 'things'.
I finally did and cursed not having done it sooner.
I mounted them just aft of centre so the tail wouldn't swing out when in fwd tick-over.
IMO they need strong fittings - bolt through with large back plates and anti compression sleeves - as they may have to take a high load.
I wouldn't like to put my trust in a toe rail, but they are good for hooking on fenders ;)
 
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