CAV DPA Injection Pump, Removing governor casing to solve leak?

[Graham Pearson]

Hi all,

I have a leak from the engine stop stud on the governor...have researched as much as I can and find this is not unusual. Have also reviewed some videos on U tube dealing with this problem but as far as I can tell, these seem to be older pumps with a mechanical governor whereas i believe mine to be hydraulic. It also seems to be the case that with the mechanical version, it is possible to remove only the governor casing (to solve the leak) while leaving the pump in place which I also would like to do.

Question is, is this possible with the hydraulic governor, and if it is can someone who has actually done it give me some tips before I start.

Pump reference is 3266 D ?(illegible) 18 and dates circa 1979

Have service kit from an ebay seller who of course couldn't find my pump reference but "thinks the kit he sent me will be ok"

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
Graham

 

[Bodach na mara]

Hi Graham, I started a thread here http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?339464-Leak-from-Injection-pump&highlight= earlier thid year. My leak was from the cross shaft carrying the throttle and stop arms.

I did not need to remove the manifold thank goodness to take off the top cover which carries the shaft. The two bolts that hold it on are a bit unusual however, not having hex heads but 12 point star heads. I have a lot of wee spanners and one of them had a 12 point ring end. I cannot remember the size and it is at the boat. I got a repair kit via ebay from http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/allmakes-...h=item257934c501&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

He has a website under development here http://www.diydieselshop.com/113109966 but it does not appear fully functional yet.

I will look and see if I can find and post some of the photos I took of the job. Good luck,

 

[Bodach na mara]

View attachment 34655I have found the only photo that I took of the job. The problem was the o-rings on the cross shaft, which were perished. The leak came dripping from the throttle lever so your problem may be the same. It may also be the rubber washers under the bolt heads.

There used to be a small repair kit available but that is no longer the case. You need to buy the full kit of bits for a complete overhaul, but it was not too expensive.

 

[Graham Pearson]

Hi Ken, many thanks for reply and info.

Do you mean that you managed to access the cross shaft by removing the governor casing only or did you remove the top cover of the pump and then managed to get to the cross shaft from the inside?
I have the full service kit but am only planning to replace the o ring on the cross shaft.

Graham

 

[Bilgediver]

Have service kit from an ebay seller who of course couldn't find my pump reference but "thinks the kit he sent me will be ok"

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
Graham

When you get the old o ring out check it out for indication of type of failure.. Some seal failures happening now have been attributed
to an incompatibility with fuels containing bio fuels so beware of fitting similar new seals. A good diesel shop can advise on this.

 

[Bodach na mara]

To get the cross shaft out you need to completely remove the bolts holding the cover down as they hold he shaft in place. They engage in the grooves that you can see in the two parts of the shaft. I suppose that as the shaft is in two bits you could remove the bit that you want to renew the seal in by withdrawing only one bolt. But you will run into trouble in re-assembly as the vertical plunger bit has to be in the right position to allow the bits of shaft to engage. So it is easier to remove the lot and work on a nice clean bench.