SandTiger
New Member
Hi - Just wondering what the best material is for caulking below the waterline (larch on oak)?
Caulking Materials...
- Thread starter SandTiger
- Start date
nordic_ranger
Well-Known Member
I have used Hemp and finished of the job with Boatlife Life Caulk. and it has worked fine for a number of years on a friends boat.
Porthandbuoy
Well-Known Member
I'm coming to the conclusion that traditional cotton caulking payed with a modern mastic, such as Boatlife Caulk, is the way to go. Saying that I did pay Mariposa with red lead putty.
LittleShip
Well-Known Member
I vote red lead putty as well.
If you use some of the modern day compounds they stick to the planks, which is OK until you dry out ashore. Some can cause the side of the plank to splinter when the planks shrink.
Once again Red Lead!
Tom
If you use some of the modern day compounds they stick to the planks, which is OK until you dry out ashore. Some can cause the side of the plank to splinter when the planks shrink.
Once again Red Lead!
Tom
Seagreen
Well-Known Member
Cleone is caulked with Cotten and payed with Sikaflex. This has to be done when the wood is very dry. Theres a bit of cracking over one or two seams, but the hull is essentially ok. I've used Red Lead putty as a filler and fairing compound, which works ok.
mclark
Well-Known Member
I would not wish to be a prophet of doom but I have a little direct experience here.
About 18 years ago I replanked most of the starboard side topsides on White Heather, new larch I felled and planked myself. I caulked with cotton and payed with a mix of linseed oil putty, red lead powder and water pump grease.
The following year, again with fresh larch I worked on the port side only this time someone who had no experience but 'his mate told him' and who I should never have listened to talked me into paying with Arbocaulk (I think it was called) as I recall a polysulphide caulking compound. This was used over cotton and was applied with their primer.
Cracks appeared soon after where the joint between the caulk and the wood had given up but I was too busy with other jobs on the boat to correct the problem.
Last year Scott Metcalf had the boat to re-install the lug rig and when fitting new chain plates he found the planks on the arbocaulk side had rotted from the edge in. No visible evidence outside or in. Water had got behind the rubber and of course couldn't escape. There was no anti-fungicidal component in the arbocaulk as there is in red lead so rot started.
The other, red lead side was unaffected and the putty still retained the consistancy of firm cheese after about 18 years.
You can bet your life I am even more reluctant to use modern materials in her now especially since the arbocaulk cost about 20 times as much as red lead putty.
Mike
About 18 years ago I replanked most of the starboard side topsides on White Heather, new larch I felled and planked myself. I caulked with cotton and payed with a mix of linseed oil putty, red lead powder and water pump grease.
The following year, again with fresh larch I worked on the port side only this time someone who had no experience but 'his mate told him' and who I should never have listened to talked me into paying with Arbocaulk (I think it was called) as I recall a polysulphide caulking compound. This was used over cotton and was applied with their primer.
Cracks appeared soon after where the joint between the caulk and the wood had given up but I was too busy with other jobs on the boat to correct the problem.
Last year Scott Metcalf had the boat to re-install the lug rig and when fitting new chain plates he found the planks on the arbocaulk side had rotted from the edge in. No visible evidence outside or in. Water had got behind the rubber and of course couldn't escape. There was no anti-fungicidal component in the arbocaulk as there is in red lead so rot started.
The other, red lead side was unaffected and the putty still retained the consistancy of firm cheese after about 18 years.
You can bet your life I am even more reluctant to use modern materials in her now especially since the arbocaulk cost about 20 times as much as red lead putty.
Mike
EASLOOP
Well-Known Member
For the carvel hull I reamed out and re-caulked every seam. I used white lead and raw linseed oil and putty above the w/l and the same but with red lead below the w/l. That was 7 years ago and there are no leaks. Prior to reaming out (with the bent tang of a file) there was a small area of sikaflex type stuff that pulled out in a long strip - it failed to adhere. Putty wont come out in strips and remaking the caulk is a doddle with putty stuff. make up some red lead paint and prime the seams with that before you caulk and fill.
good luck
good luck
EASLOOP
Well-Known Member
I'm with you Mike.
Seagreen
Well-Known Member
Have to say the sikaflex worked very well, but is showing a little wear after 17 years. Not too bad though. Given I won't be drying the hull out again for a while, running repairs are going to be in Red lead putty.
BTW, I find spraying the wood in places with WD40 helps to lubricate the putty, and quickly evaporates off. Useful to know?
BTW, I find spraying the wood in places with WD40 helps to lubricate the putty, and quickly evaporates off. Useful to know?