cascover sheathing

[meldrum]

My water witch has been out of the water for two years. she was cascover sheathed when new, and the sheathing and ply hull are still in sound condition. However a line of fasteneings along the waterline are starting to noticibly bulge out through the sheathing, upon investigation the cause seems to be that the stopping put into the fastening holes has dried out and needs replacing. Would it be better to cut and peel the sheathing away,refill the holes and then reglue or put a new section of sheathing in.? What glue /sheathing should I use, is the original cascover and glue still available or should I use glassfibre and polyester resin or epoxy and glassfibre.?

 

[Tranona]

Provided the sheathing has not become detached from the ply around the fastening, I would leave them be. My Eventide had a repair done over 30 years ago where the stopping was left proud before the re-sheathing. There is a line of bubbles about the size of a penny, but they are solid and have not changed.

If, however you do decide to cut the sheathing away because it is detaching, stop the holes with thickened epoxy as probably something like the old Brummer was used originally, which shrinks and falls out. Repair with glass cloth and epoxy. Naturally everything must be completely dry and clean for this to work. I have done a number of local repairs to the sheathing over the years using this method.

By the way, suggest you leave your seacocks bare. Make sure they are well greased and bedded in sealer. I replaced my toilet outlet last year and took the opportunity to coat all the holes in the ply with epoxy. Belt and braces!

 

[oldharry]

As Tranona says, probably nothing to worry about, unless the sheathing is loose round the lumps. Best repair is with Epoxy/ woven glass mat (make sure it is well impregnated). Never use Polyester resin on wood - it doesnt stay stuck for long; water gets behind it and rots the timber like nothing else!