Canvas covering

[tini121]

Hi, Ladies and Gents. Having just removed a wood-burning stove from Tini, I have patched the hole in the cabin roof but this now leaves a hole in the painted canvas covering. The remainder of the canvas is in pretty poor condition and will need replacing soon. Does anyone know of a supplier for this canvas? From experience, Artists canvas is too fine, I am looking for something that will still have a grain after numerous coats of paint.
Can anyone suggest a supplier?
Thanks in anticipation.
Marc.

 

[dombuckley]

You can get the genuine article from Traditional Boat Supplies in Beccles, Suffolk.

 

[tini121]

Many thanks, I will give them a call.
Marc.

 

[trouville]

I went down the traditional canvas deck cover its very hard work!Very expensive and needs just enough paint.It must be tight and not on the deck to stop rot mine had a wax paper underlay

If you do re canvas just remember that every hole you make with a drill to replace a fitting is a potential leak and make a very good job of a seal!

I used a stapel gun with copper stapels to get the tention before fitting the trim to hold it.Again hear dont drill hole of the leaks start.BUT if you dont use screws how do you hold the "clamp" the canvas??Thats the problem not to mention the toe rail now that is a pain to stop leaks

Remember before covering the canvas with say a toe rail,you should pain/proof the canvas otherwise it will rot within 2 or 3 years & leak!!

Good luck

 

[tini121]

Many thanks for your good advice. Whilst I appreciate I am letting myself in for some hard and messy work, as the cabin roof already has canvas, I feel that's the way to go I understand about the leaks as she has more drips than The House of Commons!! Hopefully, re-covering and sealing will stop the leaks.
Regards, Marc.

 

[srp]

Some years ago I replaced the canvas deck on my gaffer. It was bedded in paint and tacked down with copper nails in the traditional way. At the same time all the toe rails, rubbing strake and beadings were renewed, all bedded in mastic, screwed down with silicon bronze screws and plugged. Not a single leak. After 4 years the canvas was already showing signs of giving up, despite being maintained with Blakes deck paint.
If I had kept the boat, I would have had no hesitation in using woven glass cloth and epoxy resin, despite my severe misgivings about using non-traditional materials on a classic. For a very good 'impersonation' of the look of a canvas deck you can use peel-ply on the final coat of epoxy. There are some occasions when it has to be admitted that, sometimes, the traditional materials are really not up to it.

 

[tini121]

Thank you. This could be a better way to go. Although she is a traditional wooden-hulled boat, I doubt she'll be winning in any rallies! Forgive my ignorance, but I've not heard of peel-ply before. Where would I find it?
Regards, Marc.

 

[srp]

Peel-ply is a sacrificial covering material that is laid over wet epoxy while it is curing. After the epoxy has cured it is peeled off to expose a clean, solvent-free surface ready for the next application of epoxy. Because it is woven, it will leave a canvas-like impression, ready for painting with deck paint, and no one will know you've cheated! Get it from any epoxy supplier that does West or SP Systems, eg . here

 

[trouville]

Deck leaks

As said canvas isent really up to the job.It dose have the advantage of being very light so keeping the weight above the waterline down,it was once very cheap.

In the past i bought a proofed industrial canvas cover then i painted the deck to “hold the canvas as well as stopping rot.Then gave the canvas several coats of paint before refitting the toe rails etc Each hole i drilled i put in buttel rubber,then put the toe rail in place added more buttel rubber then put the screw in with calking cotten before plugging the hole with a bung which id coated with polysulfide

That stopped the leaks but after a few years even that canvas suffered rot and began leaking.Haveing “glued” the canvas down i patched but couldent change it without damageing the wood underneith

The second time i canvased i left it loose most of the deck was leak proof untill i got to the bows where water would find a way to get in & run down to the cabin where it would soon be leaking well over the bearths.I used a hose to look for leaks.

I did everything to find the leak resealed everything but never could stop the leak untill i bought another boat!

I dont like epoxy on wood as wood can never be dry enough to give a garenteed adheasion and rot will eventually set in

Of all the soulutions but a big & expensive solution is to cut and fit a ply deck!I found teak ply with the black polysulfide joints once laid it looks like a teak deck and lasts for years.A boat next to mine sometime ago was impressed with how leak proof it was.The ply had been glued to the origanal teak deck which had become very thin.no screws were used except for the fittings

They got a “carpenter” to do the same to her deck i suffered the first day being covered in teak dust as he sanded the old deck with a band sander a bad thing to use!

.When i came back some weeks later the ply was on and he was putting on the handrails (as hes covered the cabintop as well) then the toerails cleats winch etc i think he must have just discoverd a battry powerd drill once he had fiited everything useing mild steel screws and no sealent nor cotten he then went around the deck drilling holes putting in a mild steel screw then glueing with white glue a cap!

The owners when they came down wouldent listen to me as they had employed a proffesional!!That boat really did leak!!!They soon sold it and bought a crisc craft which ran really well;with that they began spending a fortune to stop the engins smoking!!