Can you diagnose this engine symptom??

Airscrew

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I have an engine that appears to be increasingly showing a symptom, and want to work carefully through the potential culprits before opening my wallet to a suitable engineer.
Have you come across this before??

MD11c in a Centaur. Yes I have read almost everything on this forum about MD11s.
I understand from previous owner that the engine was a 'swap-in', with unknown hours, but was fully refurbed in c2010, bores, valves, heads etc. It has been regularly and fully serviced since then, including a new impeller each year, with maybe 30 hours per year since then.

I expect there will be a host of people that will say get rid of it and buy a Beta 14 or 20. OK, I accept that some people would ditch and buy new. But until it totally destroys itself, I would prefer to keep it going as a project as a classic/semi classic engine and yacht. However, I am not going to throw alot of money at it, so I am hopefully looking in this forum for keen and experienced advocated of maintenance of older diesel engines.

The symptom is a 'white' exhaust. I wont call it smoke or steam at this point. I will let you help me consider.

I understand from previous owner that it has done this since the refurb. The injectors were checked and set, but did not change the symptom at that time, and the owner ran the engine like this for 5 years without problem.

We have had the boat for 3 years, and this 'symptom has increased this year. The visible 'volume' of this white exhaust was about the volume of a small pedal bin liner. A little more on colder days, and more on higher revs (normal would be 1500-1800, higher for us is 2000, and it will open up to 22-2300 under load). The volume last week is now double that, and double again under load, enough to give some visible concern to onlookers(!). So yes it has deteriorated more in the last 4 months than in the last 8 years.

The engine appears to have reasonable compression, but I suspect not great. I haven't had it tested, but it is very difficult to turn with the handle or flywheel, but that is subjective, and I have no meaningful comparison for a baseline. (Yes, the MD11 does have 'valve lifter' levers).

Starting is reasonable, usually after 5 seconds or so. It has a manual 'cold start', which is almost always needed from cold, and occasional 'user error' might mean that I over fuel it, and it might take 10 or 15 seconds and than also a puff of black smoke. Certainly not instant as with a modern marine diesel, but I dont know what to expect from a 'good' 40 year old MD11.

From stone cold, there is a small amount of blue smoke lasting only seconds and then it is gone.

This 'white exhaust' appears to rise and dissipate, rather than sink onto the water, so I was thinking steam, and to others at some club it certainly gives the appearance of steam. Engine temps have been stable, but I first looked into the cooling.

Last winter I ran various fluids through the system, and did remove some crud. I took off the exhaust elbow and manifold, and gave them a through clean on the workbench. I would say the elbow only needed a little cleaning, and the elbow and exhaust manifold are in great shape. The thermostat works perfectly to spec.
I bought a digital thermometer, and the exhaust manifold / thermostat housing is around 65-70, pretty much as expected. There was only 5' difference between the 2 cylinders, so no evidence of a major problem in only one cylinder.
Prior to all this, I measured the coolant flow rate at around 3 litres per minute (at 1000 fast idle) and now 4 litres per minute. So some improvement, and (I think) little to worry about on the cooling side.

So, (if you are still with me!), what about fuel and oil.

On collecting and measuring the water in a bucket, I would say there is some evidence of fuel on the surface, that blue rainbow sheen you might see on a petrol station forecourt. But minimal. There were also a couple of black blobs, two or three and less than 1mm in dia. But I dont know wether that is oil or soot.

Fuel consumption is normal at around 2 litres per hour, but very difficult to measure accurately to be a meaningful measure.
Oil consumption was around .25 litres for each of the last two years, and does not appear to be higher part way through this year.

So, my dear forum friends, here is the question.
Is it a water, or fuel, or oil problem?
In my head right now, it is not 100% clear.

And the engine works 'fine', as in not broken. So I am looking at some investigation over the winter. But rather than throwing it over to an expensive engineer to perform the investigation, where to I start?

What underlying problem will cause a 'white exhaust'?

Fuel pump?
fuel pressure?
Injectors?
Valves/guides?
Rings?
Head gasket? (there are absolutely no external signs of any problem anywhere)
Or possibly an 'internal block leak'?

Alternatively,
do you know of a rock solid diesel engineer in the Solent area, ideally with very grey hair, who can diagnose it by eye and fix it with a hammer and gaffer tape in exchange for a couple of pints??? :)
 
I had an MD2B, so very similar. I also had white exhaust emissions. I think it is almost certainly water vapour, and most likely to be a head gasket failure. Better fixed ASAP. The gasket begins to leak, and then you get high prssure discharge between the gasket and the head or block. I had a thin groove being cut on the block, which meant pulling the block out to have the groove weld filled and then machined. If the groove happens in the head it is an easier fix.

The sooner you fix it, the less likely you are to develop the groove in the head or block. A simple head gasket change is not such a big job, but better the exhaust manifold off can be a bugger.
 
I'm assuming that the engine is raw water cooled?

I agree with PJ that it sounds like water vapour. The puff of blue oil smoke on start up is normal for an old engine but if that's all you ever see of significant blue or grey smoke then it's not oil.

If the vapour continues to drift away so a few dozen metres before dispersing it's likely to be diesel although you would probably smell unburnt diesel as well but if it disperses quickly and is more evident in cooler weather then it's water vapour.

A compression test might be worthwhile.

Richard
 
White smoke is steam (or a new pope) and generally indicated a failed cylinder head gasket. As stated earlier, if left for long, erosion of either the head or block will occur. I'd whip the heads off over winter and check the mating surfaces for damage which would have to be sorted by filling and machining.
Head gaskets are about £30 and you could try a budget repair with JD Weld or have it done professionally.
 
I had a similar problem of steam in the exhaust. After much investigation found the stub on the raw water strainer that the pipe to the raw water pump attached to had narrowed with calcification to the size of a bic pen ink tube.
There was sufficient coolant getting through to cool the engine but not enough to stop steam forming in the exhaust. Worth checking before taking the engine apart.
 
Had a similar problem recently with our old Perkins. White exhaust, which everyone was saying was steam, so I checked the raw water flow from the strainer through the pump and so on. No obvious problems. So then I read somewhere that it might be unburnt fuel - it certainly smelt of fuel. I replaced the two fuel filters just in case, which largely cured the problem. I suspect that there may be an underlying problem with the lift pump that I will need to address at some stage.
 
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Sounds more like water vapour, and so cracked head and/or gasket.

I guess I anticipated this, as when I bought the manifold gasket set, I also bought a full head gasket set.
This looks like my autumn project. :)

Any specific advice on DM11 head removal and refitting?
Especially the fiddly bits like oil pipes, pushrods, valve guides etcetc.

Also your thoughts on the value (extra cost) of getting the valves ground/lapped at the same time?

Thanks.
 
The most important thing is to get the head checked for straightness and skimmed if it is not dead flat. You can do everything else yourself. The skimming will cost less than £50 but if it needs doing you could ask the engineer to do the valves at the same time. It will push the cost up to £200.

It's probably overheating which has distorted the head and weakened the gasket and if you don't get it skimmed it will probably fail again.

Of course, if it's cracked then that is a much bigger repair job or a new head but I think that is very unlikely.

Richard
 
Like many people I also had a similar problem, which as you describe became progressively worse. It was suggested to me that a head gasket was the cause, but there was no cross contamination either way to support this. I found 3 problems contributed to the issue. First, the baffle plates in the heat exchanger had completely corroded away, so virtually no heat being exchanged! Second, I suspect because of the first issue, there was a build up at the water injection point in the exhaust, which must have atomised the water getting through, to little more than an aerosol. After replacing the tube bundle in the heat exchanger, and cleaning out the exhaust manifold thing drastically improved for me, but not completely cured. The third problem I found was that on installation someone had fitted a half inch hose for the sea water supply, and the manufacturers confirmed a one inch supply as minimum. After replacing this, the issue has completely disappeared. It might not be one thing that is causing your issue, and if the engine has been replaced, may be worth checking the install criteria?
 
Like many people I also had a similar problem, which as you describe became progressively worse. It was suggested to me that a head gasket was the cause, but there was no cross contamination either way to support this. I found 3 problems contributed to the issue. First, the baffle plates in the heat exchanger had completely corroded away, so virtually no heat being exchanged! Second, I suspect because of the first issue, there was a build up at the water injection point in the exhaust, which must have atomised the water getting through, to little more than an aerosol. After replacing the tube bundle in the heat exchanger, and cleaning out the exhaust manifold thing drastically improved for me, but not completely cured. The third problem I found was that on installation someone had fitted a half inch hose for the sea water supply, and the manufacturers confirmed a one inch supply as minimum. After replacing this, the issue has completely disappeared. It might not be one thing that is causing your issue, and if the engine has been replaced, may be worth checking the install criteria?

I was guessing that the OP has a raw water cooled engine but I might be mistaken?

Richard
 
The most important thing is to get the head checked for straightness and skimmed if it is not dead flat. You can do everything else yourself. The skimming will cost less than £50 but if it needs doing you could ask the engineer to do the valves at the same time. It will push the cost up to £200.

It's probably overheating which has distorted the head and weakened the gasket and if you don't get it skimmed it will probably fail again.

Of course, if it's cracked then that is a much bigger repair job or a new head but I think that is very unlikely.

Richard

Th MD11C has 2 cylinder heads, and two separate cylinder blocks.
 
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