Can one add a safety stay ahead of a furling genoa thing?

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Wiesmier

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We had a slight issue the other day on our old Leisure17. The furling forestay fell off at sea. Not sure whether the clevis pin broke or just fell out. Anyway, we got it sorted after a bit of hassle [ see http://boxesbellows.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/a-comedy-of-errors-how-to-have.html ].

Was wondering if one can add a safety line in front of forestay as a last line of defense should this sort of thing happen again. Mind you, I hope it won't, it wasn't that fun.
 
It's certainly possible to add an additional forestay provided you have something solid to attach it to. Our old boat had no fewer than three "forestays", counting the wire jib luff and the staysail furler, but on a gaff rig with a bowsprit that's not uncommon.

As David suggests, while it seems attractive because of your specific accident, I'm not sure it's a sensible modification. The experience probably means you'll keep a closer eye on that area and it'll now be the least likely to fail!

Pete
 
On a small boat I have seen a spare forestay fitted .
Taken outside the pulpit and then down to then stem head with an extra bottle screw to reach it. Just taped in position on the pulpit.
OK on small boat ( this was 19ft) but probably not a good idea on a bigger one.

On a larger boat I sailled we always secured the spinaker halyards to the pulpit. The rail had an extra support added at the front. Not for this purpose but it made a good secure place to make off the halyard ( both ends).

You'd need to ensure anything fitted would be clear of the furler with no possiblity of becoming entangled with it. That could be a disaster

Am I right? L17 has swept back spreaders with no forward lower shrouds or baby stay? So nothing forward of the mast other than the forestay?
 
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Another problem is that the tension on your extra forestay reduces the tension on your original one, which possibly makes it more liable to component fatigue failure, which seems to be the way they fail.
 
Thanks for all the help.
No, the L17 has forward shrouds which prevented the mast braining us when the forestay came off.
I think the problem was caused by the clevis pin not having the requisite spacer washers to keep the thing central and when the ferry came past nearbyish creating a big swell, that was the last straw and the 'probably' lop-sided clevis pin went. Either complete or in bits! I'm still trying to locate another clevis pin or SS bolt to replace and re hang the mast - or whatever one does. Nothing here on the island despite a plethora of boats.
 
The Moody 33 moored next to me has an extra stay ahead of the furler. The forestay inside the furler is very slack so I can't see it going to windward very well. I would have thought the "safety" stay could be slacker than "main" forestay.
Allan
 
I'd agree that an extra forestay on a small boat is more likely to be an encumbrance than a help. Although a larger boat, I have a spinnaker halyard and spare halyard, both can be taken down to the rail near the bow should a problem arise.

Rob.
 
Why are clevis pins so difficult? I have been trying to get replacement clevis pins all round - only they all seem to be diffrent - in pairs as it were. And a clevis pin called 4.75mm for example is actually 5mm. What's that all about then?
 
I just added a roller for my dinghy's genoa and I had to shift the existing forestay foot and top connections forward and upward, to allow for the thickness of the rolled sail.

It's good to know that the mast isn't in danger if, for whatever reason, the genoa bolt-rope, or the drum, or top swivel, or halyard, or halyard cleat, lets go...

...on balance, as long as the stays aren't in each other's way, I reckon two are much better than a doubtful one. :encouragement:

20140803_173154_zps8219680b.jpg
 
So, the weather was a tad breezy but I took the tub round to lazy corner between the ancient fishing boats to get some quiet water, no wind and a quay. Some friends my partner and I re-upped the mast attaching all the requisite steel strings. I'd already drilled out the plate on the foredeck so I could use a 8mm clevis pin instead of the 6mm that was in before - all packed out with penny washers to make sure sure it doesn't move around too much.
Then I attached a little wire strop from the other hole on the foredeck plate thing where the jib would have been attached that goes through the chainplate so, if the clevis pin goes again, it all can't go too far! The spinnaker halyard is now tied to the fence around the pointy end of the boat. Should be better I hope !
 
Just to add another perspective from my little boat (only slightly bigger then the L17)

I fitted a roller furling jib, but not the sort that rolls on a solid foil, the Barton system that just has a drum at the bottom and a swivel at the top and a steel luff wire in the jib.

Obviously you need a lot of tension in the jib luff wire for the sail to set well, so the result is the original forestay just sits there a little slack, but acting as a backup should there be any problem with the jib.

An advantage of this simple system is that if something jams and for some reason you can't furl the jib, you can still let go the jib halyard and drop it like you would a hanked on sail, so virtually impossible to get into a situation where the jib is stuck out and you can't do anything with it.

My boat only has swept back shrouds, so if the forestay went the mast would go over, so having in effect two forestays seems like a good plan.

The bow roller plate, which is where the forestay and jib furling drum mount, has several sets of holes so it's easy to get enough separation.
 
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Wiesmier said:
all packed out with penny washers to make sure sure it doesn't move around too much.
Click to expand...

Just make sure that the bottle screw is not restricted from lining up with the forestay. The angle from one tack to another might be greater than you think. You wouldn't want bending forces on the bottle screw.
 
One problem you need to be aware of is that the 2 wires or ropes will go to virtually the same point on the hounds ( if not disregard) this can mean that if one goes a bit slack ie a spinnaker halliard fixed to the pulpit it can get wrapped in the jib as you start to furl. As it is at height the crew will not realise & feeling it caught may apply more power ie on a winch
This can cause more problems than it solves
Ideally the point on the mast where the 2 are attached needs to be fairly well apart. However if the shrouds are at a different lower point than the upper support it could cause mast inversion
Personally i would not bother - just apply a bit of correct maintenance!!!
 
Daydream believer said:
One problem you need to be aware of is that the 2 wires or ropes will go to virtually the same point on the hounds...
Click to expand...

Yup, that was my problem. Cured by attaching the top of the wire forestay (whose foot is well ahead of the furling drum) to the spinnaker eye, a few inches above the top of the genoa halyard sheave. It may cause a problem using the spinnaker, but if I can't rely on my genoa to furl when I need it to, I'll never get as far as trying the spinny.
 
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