Calorifier orientation.

[icarusbop]

Hello:

I have removed and will be re-fitting my calorifier, and am seeking some advice.
My calorifier looks about 900 years old but still works well, it's just in a really inconvenient place, so I'm hoping to relocate it.

Where it was, it was mounted vertically, my question is: can I mount it horizontally or will this interfere with it's operation?
Also, it does not currently has an expansion tank fitted, I presume I should fit one; can anyone advise how they are connected in?

Thanks.
Ian

 

[vyv_cox]

Hello:

I have removed and will be re-fitting my calorifier, and am seeking some advice.
My calorifier looks about 900 years old but still works well, it's just in a really inconvenient place, so I'm hoping to relocate it.

Where it was, it was mounted vertically, my question is: can I mount it horizontally or will this interfere with it's operation?
Also, it does not currently has an expansion tank fitted, I presume I should fit one; can anyone advise how they are connected in?

Thanks.
Ian

Calorifiers intended for horizontal installation have an internal pipe that draws hot water from the highest point. Unless yours has one it will not work with the standard top outlet half way down the side.

An expansion tank is never essential (my Sadler did not have one from new although it has a calorifier). Under most circumstances the accumulator installed immediately after the pump, the best place for flow smoothing, will absorb any expansion. The only exception is if the calorifier has a NRV on the cold inlet, in which case the accumulator, if it needs one, should be between calorifier and tap.

In many cases the expansion of the water in the calorifier will be absorbed by the hoses. If it isn't the relief valve will open and you will find hot water in the bilge. If this doesn't happen I would not bother.

You will find quite a lot of info on calorifiers at http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Calorifier.aspx

 

[icarusbop]

Hello:

So I've put a plan together and started collecting my bits.
I'm going to use 16mm car heater host at £4.5 per metre, and add a thermostatic mixing valve and an air vent for the fresh water system while I'm at it.
The old system also did not have a pressure relief valve! So I'm adding one with a gauge.
I'll report back with the results in a couple of weeks.

Again - thanks to all for your help.

 

[superheat6k]

If your take off point is effectively half way down with the calorifier on its side you could make a collection tube from a piece of copper tube with its OD the same as the ID of the existing fitting, with a bend to allow the tube to collect from the top of the tank. To make braze a suitable length of this tube into a suitable fitting that will mate with the existing outlet connection, place it in position but with the tube still straight and do up tight. Mark the upper position on the fitting, undo then bend the pipe so its high point coincides with the upper mark, and bend just enough for its open end to sit approx 10-20mm from the upper inner surface of the tank wall, then reinstall with sealant on the fitting threads, e.g PTFE tape or loctite 577.

I have made similar collection tubes for the low point drains on my fuel tanks, as these sit about 50mm above the tank base.

The heating water should enter higher and exit low to encourage a natural thermo-syphon.

If you do use a relief Vv with gauge fitting you can attach a small ball valve and flexi hose with nozzle (airline hose) - very useful for jetting out the bilge and engines on my boat.