erm .. thought it might be .. problem is getting the bugger out, major furniture dismantling job .. hoped to hear the words "weel there's a wee fuse just inside the thingie!"
If you can get access to the wiring, you could disconnect the element and put a meter on it. Should read low number ohms if OK but my money's on open circuit and a blown element. Not much else to go wrong. Thermostats are a lot more reliable and, assuming the wiring was correct for the instalation, that's about it.
I agree Colin, 'fraid young Jimi's in for a new element. By the time he has b-----d around getting access and checking the old one out , it would be false economy not to change.
Jimi - sorry if this is sucking eggs for you but if it is the element try to match and get a new element at say plumbers world or control centre. Saves the 500% markup one gets in our Marine World
Not sucking eggs for me at all .. any advice gratefully received!! Presume the best thing is to isolate the calorifier from the engine with a bit of rubber tube before starting my saloon destruction?
Jimi. Is your's the "Quick" calorifier? If so I think there is some sort of thermostatic protection for the element on the unit. There was a post, on the BOA site, on this topic last year. A 361 owner was finding that he could not use the mains facility without resetting the thermostatic trip on the heater, which flipped out a soon as the engine started to provide hot water. I believe the thermostat was replaced without a new element, but I'm not sure.
Quick products are marketted by XM. may be worth giving them a call.
<hr width=100% size=1>Think I'll draw some little rabbits on my head, from a distance they might be mistaken for hairs.
there is generally a thermostat rod in the heater in series with the element, either could have failed. Only way to test is with a meter or possibly a neon tester if you have one.
Those supplied by ECS have a trip separate from the thermostat. Red button I think.
Lift the immersion heater lid and have a peer inside;- could save an awful lot of cusses especially if you've removed all the cabinet work unnecessarily.
Make sure the element you buy from whatever source isn't too powerful, about 1200W is about right, anything more and it will flip the trips on some marinas power supply especially in France. Otherwise just pump out all the water via the galley taps, no need to touch any hoses on the engine part of the system. The element is probably inserted from the top of the cylinder anyway so if there is some water left in the bottom of the tank it won't leak out. Hopefully you will be able to change the element without removing the tank itself, do change both the thermostat and the element, they aren't that pricey and you wouldn't want to have the job twice....
Robin
<hr width=100% size=1><font size=1>Sermons from my pulpit are with tongue firmly in cheek and come with no warranty!</font size=1>
Low wattage immersion heaters are awkward to source - "all" domestic ones are 3Kw or thereabouts. ASAP have them - sudden isnpiration - what about caravan suppliers (not tried them).
Running the taps will not empty the calorifier, merely take a small quantity "off the top" - enough to depressurise the tank. IME this is not quite enough to be able to remove the heater without a spill (Sod's Law). Best to plan to drain the cylinder if you can.
You will probably find that the thermostat thermal switch is corroded. If you are careful you can get the plastic cover off and then clean the contacts with some very fine wet and dry.Did this on my friends.did his in situ saves removing heater.DONT FORGET TO ISOLATE SUPPLY>
If this is a true marine installation there will be a thermostat on the heating element and also a safety thermostat. It is the safety thermostat that tends to trip as the water temp from your engine is approx 30 degrees above that set on the element thermostat.
Yes, domestic immersion heaters are cheaper, but try getting hold of a 1KW one...you'll have more luck searching for rocking horsedroppings. You can buy a "switch" that reduces the power taken by a domestic element down to about 1KW but this isn't cheap and something else to go wrong.
Get in touch with ASAP and they will sort you out.