Calling the Paint Doctors

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absit_omen

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I want to change hull colour (wooden boat) from International Squall Blue Brightside to another International product - perhaps Brightside again or Toplac - in either Ivory or Cream.
Alternatively Blakes Warm Cream.

What preparation would you recommend? Sand, undercoat (what brand and colour undercoat?).

As the finish is currently very good (probably a depth of three coats of previously applied paint) I am reluctant to strip back to bare teak and go through the whole priming process again.

Any comments welcome.
 
No problem as far as it goes, just use enough undercoats to cover the original colour properly. Insufficient coats will allow the colour to show through and look terrible. 2 possibly 3 should be adequate.

Where you will have problems is later on, any dings in the paintwork will show through the original colour, and be much more noticeable! No solution to that one except either remove the original paint system, or avoid dings!
 
Just repainted my Squib from green to blue - rubbed down but not to base; 1 undercoat; 2 undercoat/topcoat 50:50 mix; 2 Toplac topcoat. Rubbed down between coats with 280? grit. Looks good - IMHO!. Topcoat went on better thinned a bit tho' it was cold at the time 8-10'C.
 
I just repainted a boat for someone. Brightside, and as BAtoo says, thinned a bit to account for cold causing less flow in the paint.
But don't thin any more than the 5% they reccommend, or it will run before you get a decent film on.
Use (good quality) mini foam rollers and tip off with the exhausted roller before recharging it. Don't tip off with a brush when it's cold, or you'll introduce brush strokes which won't flow out.

I say good quality rollers because some of the cheap packs of foam refills have a glue bonding the foam to the centre tube which is melted by paint solvents. Handy, eh?

preludepaint.jpg



Use a white undercoat to help make the finished colour brighter and so you can see where you are painting when applying the cream.

Cream is very nice if you have a bit of wood as well

HeronVarnish02.jpg
 
Pleased to see Blakes agree with me [ QUOTE ]
Temperature too hot causing paint to cure too quickly and not allowing the product to flow naturally.
Temperature too cold making the product too thick and difficult to distribute evenly.

[/ QUOTE ] /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I'm just about to paint my hull, and I was thinking of using a 2 pack paint (most probably perfection) is there much difference in toughness between a single pack and a two pack?
Would anyone comment on their preference?
 
I haven't used 2 pack for some time. I would suggest that it is considerably tougher than single pot paint. I used Blake's Brilliant Enamel last year and it was softer than their previous Yacht Enamel. Quite easily bruised.
 
Two-pot is designed to be tougher but harder to get a really good finish - it is overall less tolerant of conditions/preparation/application etc than a 1-pot.

Read the instructions too!! If I had re low temperature application the first coat on my Squib would not have needed so much rubbing down after going on too thick!! But the thinned coats were fine!!
One learns by experience - or is that mistakes????
 
If the hull is already painted with ordinary paint, you cant use 2 pot over it, although you can do it the other way - single over 2 pot.

I believe International reckon on 2 years life for one part paint systems, and five to seven years for two pot paints.

Dulux Weathershield on the other hand lasts ten years - guaranteed (by Dulux - it says so on the tin!)! I once painted a boat in dark blue weathershield. It still looked fine after five years when it went elsewhere.

So you 'pays your money and takes your choice as they say. Unlikely that Dulux would honour their 'guarantee' after ten years marine use though!
 
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