Calling Fairline (hardware) experts

MapisM

MapisM

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I'm thinking to add a couple of fairleads at the bow, for several reasons irrelevant in this context.
While browsing around, I came across a couple of similar alternatives on Coastal Rides website, both allegedly OEM FL accessories:
1) https://coastalrides.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=14626
2) https://coastalrides.co.uk/stainless-fairlead

Now, aside from not understanding why the first is called cleat and the latter fairlead (considering that the only visible difference are the slightly rounded vs. squared borders), what I'm more interested in are the exact specs of the things.
I mean, I need something pretty solid, and from the pics alone it's impossible to tell for instance the diameter of the vertical cylinders, or the bolt size.
Also, I can't understand how large is the opening in between the two mushrooms.
Can anybody help?

Btw, in the second of the above links, they mention "Belmarsh Engineering" as the producer, but I couldn't find any reference about them... :confused:

TIA!
 
P, as you may know, CR takes a lot of old / new stock from the UK manufacturers (Pearl recently for example) so I've no reason to doubt that these aren't legit. The guy that runs it is called Paul Grieve and is very helpful (he replied to an email I sent him in about 15 mins this morning). He'd probably be happy to hold a tape measure against the parts or measure the specific bits if you drop him an email.

I haven't heard of "Belmarsh Engineering".
 
P. Given you want something “pretty solid” I think both of your likes might be too small for your DP, judging by the size info provided.
 
Pinnacle said:
P. Given you want something “pretty solid” I think both of your likes might be too small for your DP, judging by the size info provided.
Click to expand...
That's what I was also thinking, P. Otoh, I would strictly used the things as fairleads - never as cleats.

This means two things:

1) they must be large enough (height/aperture) to take a pretty substantial line, say 30mm at least.
But considering the visual proportions with the 160mm length, by and large I would expect them to be OK in this respect.

2) they don't need to be strong enough to withstand tons of pull, just a somewhat lateral force - that's why I was wondering what the bolt size is.
For the records, my current fairleads have relatively small 10mm bolts, as opposed to the massive 14mm of the cleats.

I just emailed them, let's see what happens...

PS: does anyone have an idea of what FL model those things were installed on?
 
vas said:
+1 are they for the tender P?
Click to expand...
Haha, nothing like saying that the reasons are irrelevant, in order to raise questions like this, I reckon! :D
Nope, the idea is to either replace the existing fairleads or add a second couple closer to the cleat, straight before the stanchions rather than after it, as they are in current setup (see below).
The problem of existing fairleads is that the opening in them is only good for up to 24mm or so lines, which is OK in most places, but when the bow lines are larger, as in the following pic, it's impossible to pass them inside the fairleads.
But as you can see, even if the existing fairleads are rather small in comparison with the cleats (which are about 15" long, just as a reference), they are actually ok, aside from the tight line passage.
Cb0hqpP9_o.jpg
 
MapisM said:
Haha, nothing like saying that the reasons are irrelevant, in order to raise questions like this, I reckon! :D
Nope, the idea is to either replace the existing fairleads or add a second couple closer to the cleat, straight before the stanchions rather than after it, as they are in current setup (see below).
The problem of existing fairleads is that the opening in them is only good for up to 24mm or so lines, which is OK in most places, but when the bow lines are larger, as in the following pic, it's impossible to pass them inside the fairleads.
But as you can see, even if the existing fairleads are rather small in comparison with the cleats (which are about 15" long, just as a reference), they are actually ok, aside from the tight line passage.
Cb0hqpP9_o.jpg
Click to expand...

Can I see two cable ties (Red and Green) to show you how far to pull the lines in?
 
MapisM said:
Haha, nothing like saying that the reasons are irrelevant, in order to raise questions like this, I reckon! :D
Nope, the idea is to either replace the existing fairleads or add a second couple closer to the cleat, straight before the stanchions rather than after it, as they are in current setup (see below).
The problem of existing fairleads is that the opening in them is only good for up to 24mm or so lines, which is OK in most places, but when the bow lines are larger, as in the following pic, it's impossible to pass them inside the fairleads.
But as you can see, even if the existing fairleads are rather small in comparison with the cleats (which are about 15" long, just as a reference), they are actually ok, aside from the tight line passage.
Cb0hqpP9_o.jpg
Click to expand...

You should know better than provocatively displaying the cleat with your preference of line tie off, bound to cause a stir :)
 
Would an angle grinder to widen the gap by a few mm solve the problem with less money and hassle?

Getting the old one out. Gel coat to fill old holes etc. New holes. New backing plate.

If polished there is no reasons for you to tell it has been ground away
 
petem said:
Can I see two cable ties (Red and Green) to show you how far to pull the lines in?
Click to expand...
The purpose is precisely that, but cable ties they aren't - just vinyl electrical tape.
The trick for making it last and stay attached well, aside obviously from waiting for the line to be bone dry, is to pull it well while going round the line. Good enough for a whole season, in my experience. :encouragement:
 
jrudge said:
Would an angle grinder to widen the gap by a few mm solve the problem with less money and hassle?
Click to expand...
I thought about that, J. But I also would prefer to have the fairlead closer to the cleat, i.e. without the stanchion in between.
It's not easy to explain why (though you might see what I mean, since you had a chance to try it in flesh), but this would also make line handling a bit easier.
And tbh, I don't mind leaving the existing fairleads in place.
I'm sure this would make aesthetic purists raise their eyebrows, but in my view, life's too short to remove those things and patch the gelcoat just for the sake of a cleaner look... :rolleyes:
 
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MapisM said:
The purpose is precisely that, but cable ties they aren't - just vinyl electrical tape.
The trick for making it last and stay attached well, aside obviously from waiting for the line to be bone dry, is to pull it well while going round the line. Good enough for a whole season, in my experience. :encouragement:
Click to expand...

Thanks, I might try that.
 
Hi mapism. I don't recognise them and I suspect they are 10++ years old. I think the second one looks great- the hand in thr photo tells you the size. It's says 115mm hole cars which is good, and from thr picture it has M12 studs. Only 40£; if you wait till 29/3/2019 you might find that to be about the price of a pizza to you.

Coastal Rides are good as dealers in surplus boatbuilder things. I have bought plenty from them and always been very pleased with them. Their internet listings are often careless and a bit wrong but they always refund me if there is a problem

"Belmarsh" is a coastal rides malapropism. It's a famous London jail :D. Category A. I think they meant to say "Barr Court" who used to make much of Fairline's ss, years ago. Www.barrscourt.com

I agree with you about moving the fairlead back. With your current arrangement you seem to have too little space between stachions
 
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jfm said:
Only 40£; if you wait till 29/3/2019 you might find that to be about the price of a pizza to you.
Click to expand...
Haha, do you think it's the right moment to place an order for a Princess Y85, and by delivery time it'll cost me as much as a RIB...? :D :rolleyes:
 
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