mick
Member
I need to add a short length to the existing cable to enable me to move my bow nav light. The cable will be exposed. What is the most secure waterproof way to do this?
Cable join
- Thread starter mick
- Start date
sailorman
Well-known member
quality marine crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing around the joint
Rigger Mortice
N/A
Can you insert a section further back and then pull the cable through so that the joins are in a more protected area?
If you can't do that then I would join the wire/s with a crimp connection and then wrap it with self amalgamating tape. Brilliant stuff. If it is exposed to the sun you may need to renew it every few years but it does make very good waterproof protection.
I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to say you shouldn't do it like that!
If you can't do that then I would join the wire/s with a crimp connection and then wrap it with self amalgamating tape. Brilliant stuff. If it is exposed to the sun you may need to renew it every few years but it does make very good waterproof protection.
I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to say you shouldn't do it like that!
SAWDOC
Active member
Can you insert a section further back and then pull the cable through so that the joins are in a more protected area?
Like it!
dunmor
New member
put a new wire in so its in one piece.
monkfish24
Active member
Google:
Solder Sleeve
Solder Sleeve
DavidGrieves
Member
Self amalgamating tape.
Boathook
Well-known member
I would renew the cable to put the joint in a protected area. The joints seem to fail otherwise - mainly when the item ie your nav light is really required.
Boo2
Well-known member
If you can't adjust the cable so as to move the join then I would solder bare wire to bare wire and cover with adhesive heat shrink tube. Note the adhesive HST is different from the plain stuff and much more likely to prevent water ingress.
Boo2
Elessar
Well-known member
use the in line splice, which is the 6th item down on the following page
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/heatsealterms.php
All joints on an aircraft are crimped not soldered. The soldering iron should be used as sparingly on a boat IMHO.
uxb
New member
Seal with heat shrink tubing.
To join
Bare the ends of the two wires, tin them and then solder together- but mind and slip over the heat shrink tubing before you do...
Crimp connectors can be OK if well made but I've had bad experiences with them. the onlny ones I like to use are the silicone grease filled Scotch-loc connectors similar to the ones BT uses - very hard to get hold of though.
To join
Bare the ends of the two wires, tin them and then solder together- but mind and slip over the heat shrink tubing before you do...
Crimp connectors can be OK if well made but I've had bad experiences with them. the onlny ones I like to use are the silicone grease filled Scotch-loc connectors similar to the ones BT uses - very hard to get hold of though.
aitchem
Member
Talbot
Active member
Anyone used gel-filled connectors onboard yet? The concept must have some marine utility.
Billjratt
Active member
definately another vote for a below-deck joint, and that will allow a cut-back to nice clean wire, rather than trying to scrape black/green stuff back to life.
As for the joint, I'm not against soldering if the cable is reasonably well secured against vibration or movement. The air/automotive guys like crimps to survive motion.
Whichever you use, it should be protected - even if you shrink tube it, there is an argument for a protective layer of self-amalgamating tape if you want to 'fit and forget'.
No rocket science involved really.
As for the joint, I'm not against soldering if the cable is reasonably well secured against vibration or movement. The air/automotive guys like crimps to survive motion.
Whichever you use, it should be protected - even if you shrink tube it, there is an argument for a protective layer of self-amalgamating tape if you want to 'fit and forget'.
No rocket science involved really.
mick
Member
Thanks, all. Replacing the cable would be a pain but I think I might bite the bullet on that one.
Boo2
Well-known member
I personally would use the in-line solder splice from that page in preference to the the crimp splice Elessar recommends. You will find it hard to get hold of a crimping tool for the heatshrink crimps shown on that page. I eventually imported one at considerable expense from the USA and it was nfg, this thread refers.
Aircraft crimps are made by uber-expensive crimp tools which are regularly calibrated. Aircraft electronics is also exposed to continual high levels of high-frequency vibration whereas boats are exposed to lower levels of low-frequency vibration which is fal less solder-unfriendly.
I think the OP will have more joy with solder than crimps, but it's up to them...
Boo2
Elessar
Well-known member
Crimp tool £17.35.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/preinscrimps.php
I agree at a the front of a saily boat the vibrations aren't as bad as near the engine, but the solder joints may still crack in the end, that's why I use crimps.
Boo2
Well-known member
I don't believe that tool to be suitable for the HeatSeal crimps they sell. If you follow the link I posted to the older thread you will see some of the issues discussed.
IMO well soldered wire-wire joints will be as reliable as crimps so long as the joints are supported by (adhesive) heat shrink tube.
Boo2
doug748
Well-known member
Yes, I would always support the wire whatever the joint.
M'self, I crimp with cheap pliers and solder as well. The solder also helps if you are using standard, untinned wires.
LadyInBed
Well-known member
It shouldn't be too much of a job. Soldering the new wire to the old one using an insulated staggered lap joint to pull through, then if the worst happens and it gets stuck, your joint is in a concealed part of the run. It all depends on the angles!
Good luck.
