Bum prep.

lisilou

lisilou

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I don't mind antifouling the boat. I don't mind washing and polishing the boat. In fact I find it quite therapeutic but....the one thing I loath, loath, LOATH is rubbing her bum down in prep for the antifoul. I have rubbish strength in my arms working at that angle so doing it is a killer for me (yes I know...pathetic girl blah blah blah :p). I've just finished rubbing her down and just pray to God that my pathetic effort is good enough.
So...my question is, how much 'keying' is enough? I've done it by hand using a block and gone through several sheets of medium wet & dry. You reckon I've been heavy enough?

Thanks muchly
L
:)
 
Lisa, do what I do. Use Hemple Tiger Xtra erodable antifoul and never worry about sanding again. Just apply a new coat to that to replace that which has eroded
 
I'm with you Gary Hempel Tiger Xtra (personally I like white) and then you need minimal prep after a full season and a really good jet wash.

Lisa you are looking for it to be both smooth to minimise drag so no big lumps, bumps, steps or patches and abraided to give a key for the new paint to grip to.
 
Hi Lisa,

Do consider coat Coat, I have it on the new boat, it is too early to give you a proper report, but today I wiped of a layer of / dust / slime with a mop!
 
If you have a reasonably smooth surface on the old paint, all you need to do if its eroding AF is to rub over the surface with a nylon scourer to give a nice key for the new paint to grip to (like Captmike says) Then for your if there are any lumps/flakes/patches, rub these out with a bit of Wet and dry (like you have probably done!). Just before you go to apply the new paint, wipe the whole area over with corresponding AF thinners on a rag. This removes any fine/dust/other foreign substances and just softens the old paint surface a little and makes it very slightly sticky (you'll see the cloth turning the colour of the old paint) making it ideal to receive its new paint. If you do this, you should get a successful application every time.
 
lisilou said:
I don't mind antifouling the boat. I don't mind washing and polishing the boat. In fact I find it quite therapeutic but....the one thing I loath, loath, LOATH is rubbing her bum down in prep for the antifoul. I have rubbish strength in my arms working at that angle so doing it is a killer for me (yes I know...pathetic girl blah blah blah :p). I've just finished rubbing her down and just pray to God that my pathetic effort is good enough.
So...my question is, how much 'keying' is enough? I've done it by hand using a block and gone through several sheets of medium wet & dry. You reckon I've been heavy enough?

Thanks muchly
L
:)
Click to expand...

I,ve never abraded it at all..I scrape off the odd loose bit and once took the whole hull back.. a power scraper (bosch or #15 Lidl when they have them)
I dont think a few rough bits is going to make difference to a few hundred hp at the props! Hell, the stuff is so damn sticky, and assuming the hull was jet washed, just put it on a with a 4inch gloss roller -warm the a/f first or in the cold it will be like glue !!
 
Thanks all. Think I've done it ok by the sounds of it. No lumps or bumps anywhere anymore. Gary, Mike,...I've had to rub it down (or so I've been told) as I'm using a different antifoul this time.
Paul, too late hon....I've already bought the paint. I've gone for Hempel Cruising Performer (think that's the one anyway). Will be interested to see how yours has performed by your next lift out tho.
Ripster, thankyou. I didn't know about thinners for that purpose.

Knackered now! I'm not made for manual work!
L
;)
 
Hiya Gavin.
This time I've had to go round with a scraper to get the barnacles off. Not too bad as the jet wash got most of it off but the Cruiser Uno didn't come up trumps for me this year :(.
L
:)
 
gjgm said:
I,ve never abraded it at all..I scrape off the odd loose bit and once took the whole hull back.. a power scraper (bosch or #15 Lidl when they have them)
I dont think a few rough bits is going to make difference to a few hundred hp at the props! Hell, the stuff is so damn sticky, and assuming the hull was jet washed, just put it on a with a 4inch gloss roller -warm the a/f first or in the cold it will be like glue !!
Click to expand...

+1 :)
 
Copper coat, give her bum a jet wash when she's lifted and job done.

Can't remember exactly how long it's been on but at least 8 years, am sure Elassar will be along at some point with the correct length of time
 
Jurgen said:
Copper coat, give her bum a jet wash when she's lifted and job done.

Can't remember exactly how long it's been on but at least 8 years, am sure Elassar will be along at some point with the correct length of time
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We've considered it Jurgen but at some point we'll likely trade up so can't justify the expense on this one.
L
:)
 
You need one of these. Get one that has clips on it to hold the wet and dry. I use a 6 ft pole but get an 8 ft if you have a wide boat.

Use 80 grade 3 M wet and dry. ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES !

This dramatically reduces the fatigue as you can work standing up with your arms down instead of crouching with your arms above your head.

View attachment 46347
 
TQA said:
You need one of these. Get one that has clips on it to hold the wet and dry. I use a 6 ft pole but get an 8 ft if you have a wide boat.

Use 80 grade 3 M wet and dry. ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES !

This dramatically reduces the fatigue as you can work standing up with your arms down instead of crouching with your arms above your head.

View attachment 46347
Click to expand...

using the pad and pole is the way to go but sanding mesh is much faster than wet and dry
 
lisilou said:
but at some point we'll likely trade up
L
:)
Click to expand...

Thought you already had... :D

imagejpg1_zpsa201722b.jpg
 
ratbag said:
using the pad and pole is the way to go but sanding mesh is much faster than wet and dry
Click to expand...

+1

B&Q sell it as "drywall sanding mesh". The point being that both plasterboard and antifoul produce lots of dust which quickly blocks conventional sandpaper - the mesh lets it fall through and the abrasive keeps working. Obviously with antifoul you use it wet so it's sludge rather than dust, but the point stands. Also get a decent-sized bucket (I use an old tile-grout tub) to dunk it in regularly to rinse away the sludge, and hose the hull down occasionally as well.

A single piece of mesh used to do the whole of our 24' sailing boat, and as TQA says, being able to use your back, shoulders and whole arms rather than just your hands and forearms makes the work much less tiring.

On our new boat we have coppercoat instead :D

Pete
 
A must for the next upgrade, CopperCoat or simlar.
A once and for all job
Just finished our 9th season and not bought a drop of anti foul in that time.
Lift, pressure wash and abrade with 3m washing up scourers or green pads whatever is cheaper.
 
Gwylan said:
A must for the next upgrade, CopperCoat or simlar.
A once and for all job
Just finished our 9th season and not bought a drop of anti foul in that time.
Lift, pressure wash and abrade with 3m washing up scourers or green pads whatever is cheaper.
Click to expand...

Was advised by the previous owner of Evenstar (Elessar) who owns a Copper Coat business just to wash the hull.
 
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