Bukh stop solenoid replacement issues

[Airscrew]

Hi all Bukh owners.

The stop solenoid on my DV24 has failed. Had to resort to using the decomp lever to stop. I havent tested it on the bench, but on the boat (yesterday evening) putting 12v directly to it does not result in a click.

Any issues I should plan for?
How to remove?
Sealant? Adjustment?
Looking at the parts diagram, Do I leave the 'mounting flange' untouched/unchanged?

Thanks.


PS
Almost certainly cased by the stop button sticking at the end of the last outing, and me not turning off the electrics for a minute or two.
How long should a normal solenoid be able to hold 'energised' before burning out?

 

[Bilgediver]

There are warnings regarding leaving the ignition in the stop position for too long. See Page 11 in the manual. A check for continuity will confirm if the solenoid coil is still intact'
Better not tell SWMBO how much a new coil costs.

No doubt someone will be along soon who is familiar with the correct setting up on reassembly



Bukh Stop Solenoid
https://bukh.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2016/09/Owners-Handbook-BUKH-DV-10-20-ME.pdf

 

[Airscrew]

There are warnings regarding leaving the ignition in the stop position for too long. See Page 11 in the manual. A check for continuity will confirm if the solenoid coil is still intact'
Better not tell SWMBO how much a new coil costs.

No doubt someone will be along soon who is familiar with the correct setting up on reassembly



Bukh Stop Solenoid
https://bukh.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2016/09/Owners-Handbook-BUKH-DV-10-20-ME.pdf

Hi, and yes I was previously aware of the ignition issue.

But this is a button arrangement, not a key, to avoid the issue, but it appears the button had stuck/shorted!!

80USD shipped from India is quite acceptable...

 

[Poignard]

Deleted [info about DV10 solenoid which may not be relevant to DV24]

 

[Poignard]

Deleted [info about DV10 solenoid which may not be relevant to DV24]

 

[rotrax]

I removed the one from our DV20 a few years ago. It was screwed into the end of the pump. Taking the current away-switching off the ignition-de-energised it and the solenoid spring pushed a rod forward which shut off the fuel.

Sticking a finger into the hole where the solenoid fitted and pushing what the solenoid pushed stopped the engine.

I converted mine to cable operation using the burned out guts of the solenoid and a Norton Commando 750 front brake cable.

It cost but an hour or so of time in the workshop.

$80.00 USD for a button seems quite expensive. A HD momentary switch might do it, and be readily available.

 

[Poecheng]

You will probs have tried this but check it is not just sticking or gummed up with crap. I have had success with 'dead' Bukh solenoids introduced to freeing/anti corrosion sprays (not WD40) and some time and also cleaning up the contacts.
PS: Good luck

 

[Airscrew]

I removed the one from our DV20 a few years ago. It was screwed into the end of the pump. Taking the current away-switching off the ignition-de-energised it and the solenoid spring pushed a rod forward which shut off the fuel.

Sticking a finger into the hole where the solenoid fitted and pushing what the solenoid pushed stopped the engine.

I converted mine to cable operation using the burned out guts of the solenoid and a Norton Commando 750 front brake cable.

It cost but an hour or so of time in the workshop.

$80.00 USD for a button seems quite expensive. A HD momentary switch might do it, and be readily available.

80 is for a new solenoid. The new button was 8

 

[Airscrew]

You will probs have tried this but check it is not just sticking or gummed up with crap. I have had success with 'dead' Bukh solenoids introduced to freeing/anti corrosion sprays (not WD40) and some time and also cleaning up the contacts.
PS: Good luck

Thanks.
I will check the existing one before buying another.
Do you recall is it a sealed unit, or serviceable?

 

[Poecheng]

Thanks.
I will check the existing one before buying another.
Do you recall is it a sealed unit, or serviceable?

I haven't taken one to bits though I may have taken one off, cannot recall.
I think the actuating rod is not sealed within the unit and it is this that can get stuck either by inactivity or by crud/seawater (!)
When it happened the last time on a 10hp, I liberally sprayed it (tried to drown it) with anti-corrosion fluid, left it 24 hrs and then tried it. I would also try it by rapidly flicking the ignition switch to the left to keep activating it and trying to dislodge - bit by bit - the actuating rod.

£80 is a good price as these are rare and very expensive new as, from recollection, they operate in the opposite direction to all other solenoids.
Others will know (much) better.

 

[Misterbreeze]

Replaced mine this year £200ish secondhand. Burnt old one out due to leaving key in off position. Solenoid is not serviceable, a local firm looked at it and said the construction is such that whilst they would have a go the labour & machining cost would be over 400 squids, so not really viable. Fit a cable, I wish now that I had, cheaper and much less to go wrong.

 

[rotrax]

80 is for a new solenoid. The new button was 8

The Bukh agent in Auckland wanted nearly 400 NZ Dollars for a new one. That is over 200 quid.

That is why I modified mine to a cable pull stop.

 

[Poignard]

The Bukh agent in Auckland wanted nearly 400 NZ Dollars for a new one. That is over 200 quid.

That is why I modified mine to a cable pull stop.

Something like this?

 

[rotrax]

Not really. I chucked the Bosch solenoid body in my little lathe and removed the windings. The smell was awful!

The rod that the magnet pulled forward to push the pump was used inside the solenoid body as it was already sized and was the bearing. I controlled it by a cable. IIRC a discarded hair roller spring was used as a cable return spring and the cable pull was a discarded curtain ring.

As my old - and very clever - mate Bill used to say with conviction " An Engineer is a man who can make for a tanner what most pay a quid for! "

I am NOT an engineer by any standards but can knock up simple repairs and modifications in my well equiped workshop.

I bought the burned out solenoid back to the UK to modify and fitted it to 'Ella' upon our return the next year. I could not have done it without my workshop and 'junk box' into which useful looking discarded stuff is put.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I don't understand why a timer is not fitted that will remove the power on the solenoid after a time delay thus saving the solenoid from burning out

The run lever on my old injector pump is operated by a wiper motor with limit switched to control the movement of the arm

 

[rotrax]

My system was that during cranking a high current held open the fuel stop valve. Once cranking had finished when the engine had started, a low current replaced it but into a different winding which was powerful enough to hold it open. Turning the ignition off removed this low current and a heavyish internal spring closed the fuel valve.

Simples.

Excessive cranking could have been the cause of burnout, probably while the previous owner or a mechanic was bleeding the pump or injectors.

It was a Bosch solenoid, Bosch NZ were unable to supply. The Bukh agent had one but at 200 quid.

No thanks......................................................

 

[Poignard]

 

[rotrax]

The one pictured is not a new one. You can clearly see discoloration and marks around the screw holes. Also the terminals are missing.

Are you sure that is not a hookey site?

 

[Poignard]

It's Amazon UK

 

[Airscrew]

The one pictured is not a new one. You can clearly see discoloration and marks around the screw holes. Also the terminals are missing.

Are you sure that is not a hookey site?

The single spade terminal is completely correct. As is the p/n.