bumblefish
Well-Known Member
A short while ago I was advised to put some oil down the injector port of my Bukh 10, can anyone tell me how to remove the injector or if I should leave it a pro?
Bukh 10 Injector removal
- Thread starter bumblefish
- Start date
EASLOOP
Well-Known Member
Direct from the guys at Bukh (they will give you all the free advice you could possibly need) here goes. if you want to get oil into the cylinder the least disruptive way is to take the air filter off. While looking into the inlet chamber turn the fly wheel slowly and you will see the inlet valve begin to open; when it is fully open, i.e. the valve is all the way down, squirt your oil directly into the inlet. As the valve is open the oil will flow into the cylinder. The more open the valve the easier it will be to squirt the oil in. Sorted.
If you put too much oil into the cylinder it will become very difficult to turn over as oil is not compressible. I had to heave on my DV10 to get the oil to run down the side of the cylinder into the sump.
Why do you need to put oil into the cylinder?
If you put too much oil into the cylinder it will become very difficult to turn over as oil is not compressible. I had to heave on my DV10 to get the oil to run down the side of the cylinder into the sump.
Why do you need to put oil into the cylinder?
cliff
Well-Known Member
I don't understand why you would want to put oil down the injector port but, if you do, the injector is easily removed.
Undo the fuel lines from the injector
Remove the complete unit by turning the lower hex section - do not turn the upper section as you will open the injector.
Fish out the heat shield washer from below the injector noting which way round it goes and you now have access to the precombustion chamber.
Refitting is the revers of the above.
Make sure the heat shield washer is refitted the correct way round. Tighten the injector to the correct torque and refit the fuel lines. Ensure everything is clean and all sould be well.
--------------------
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
Undo the fuel lines from the injector
Remove the complete unit by turning the lower hex section - do not turn the upper section as you will open the injector.
Fish out the heat shield washer from below the injector noting which way round it goes and you now have access to the precombustion chamber.
Refitting is the revers of the above.
Make sure the heat shield washer is refitted the correct way round. Tighten the injector to the correct torque and refit the fuel lines. Ensure everything is clean and all sould be well.
--------------------
bumblefish
Well-Known Member
The engine has not been used for at least 2 years and now will not budge, this is to try and free it up!
bumblefish
Well-Known Member
Would that be the absolutely lowest hex?
EASLOOP
Well-Known Member
I have had a similar problem. Though my DV10 had no compression but would turn over. Previously over the years ashore I would try and turn the engine over by hand with the de-compression lever fully on. On one occasion I stood on the crank handle and bounced up and down to get it free. But like I say, this was earlier.
I had my cylinder head re-engineered and refittted it in Apri this year. But no compression. In the end I poured engine oil into the open inlet valve, about 3 cups full. Stood astride the engine grabbed the crank handle and pulled long and hard as I could against the compression (with oil in there I got good compression) and forced the oil past the piston into the sump. After a lot of tries I got it going and I figure that the compression rings has siezed. The copious amounts of oil freeing them up. The engine started everytime since withour hesitation.
Keep at it. Bukh afre amazing engines. My DV10 is circa 1975 ad runs really well now. I plan to keep it that way with loads of TLC (as any engine should have).
I had my cylinder head re-engineered and refittted it in Apri this year. But no compression. In the end I poured engine oil into the open inlet valve, about 3 cups full. Stood astride the engine grabbed the crank handle and pulled long and hard as I could against the compression (with oil in there I got good compression) and forced the oil past the piston into the sump. After a lot of tries I got it going and I figure that the compression rings has siezed. The copious amounts of oil freeing them up. The engine started everytime since withour hesitation.
Keep at it. Bukh afre amazing engines. My DV10 is circa 1975 ad runs really well now. I plan to keep it that way with loads of TLC (as any engine should have).
cliff
Well-Known Member
Yes - I have sent details by email, please read section C and section H carefully - all will be explained.
--------------------
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
--------------------
bumblefish
Well-Known Member
From section C the upper part of the pre-combustion chamber is the last item and the injector immediately precedes it, do you know the correct size torque wrench by any chance?
cliff
Well-Known Member
Torque settings are in section H.
--------------------
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
--------------------
