Building a slipper launch

[Captain Coochie]

I bought the plans from Selway Fisher a while ago and have finally decided to build a model of the boat first rather than messing up lots of expensive materials . Glad i did as its not as easy as i thought .
I have a few things dont ring true to me as i follow the plans so if anyone can put me right id be very thankfull .
1 . The frames and moulds are plywood then strengthened with timber ? Is this normal ?
2. If the frames and moulds are plywood why do the plans say cut rebates in the Hog to take the frames and moulds , wouldnt it be better to cut the frames and moulds around the Hog to keep max structure to the Hog ?
3 Is it normal to have 10 sash cramps holding everything together then as you put the 11th one on they all fall off ! ?

 

[snowleopard]

You'll have more luck with this one on the Classic Boat forum.

I would guess that cutting into both frame and hog will give more strength than a deep cut into either one. Presumably there are other keel members laminated onto the outside of the hog which will give it strength and stiffness.

Sash cramps are a pain in the a***. Better to use g-clamps onto a stringer where possible. If you get the new trigger-action ones that work on the same principle as a skeleton gun you'll find it much quicker. If you need to pull e.g. gunwales together, try a spanish windlass. Tie a loop of cord around the two members, put a stick through the loop and twist. when tight enough, wedge one end of the stick against something solid to stop it untwisting.

When I was assembling my cat I spent a lot of time trying to get the hulls to mate with the bridgedeck assembly. I spent a couple of hours jacking them into position but still had a gap of about an inch. In the end I took a big mooring warp, tied a loop around both bows, put in a length of 2x4 and twisted. in less than a minute I had a tight joint.