bronze/dzr seacocks and fittings

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colvic987

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can bronze skin fittings be mixed with dzr seacocks and tails. Will this setup last a reasonable time fitted to boat, i am looking on changing a couple of seacocks during the winter layup. the seacocks are looking a little tired, mild steel handle starting to fall to bits.
 
Yes, you can mix them. Bronze ball valves are available, too, but they're very expensive and I reckon ball valves are pretty chunky components compared with through-hulls so DZR should be OK.

I've just changed my heads outlet seacock and through-hull for a bronze through-hull and a DZR ball valve. Look for "ISIS" brand ball valves - they have a good spec and a neat PVC-coated handle (although the handle itself is only zinc-plated steel).
 
colvic987 said:
can bronze skin fittings be mixed with dzr seacocks and tails. Will this setup last a reasonable time fitted to boat, i am looking on changing a couple of seacocks during the winter layup. the seacocks are looking a little tired, mild steel handle starting to fall to bits.
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Yes no problem. Good that you have bronze skin fittings.

Why not go for better quality tails/seacocks ( Bronze/Gunmetal) while you are at it. E C Smith ,if I remember, do a good range. Check out others also. They don't cost that much more.

I'm sure VicS will come along shortly who probably knows more suppliers and a bit more.

With regard to longevity, my boat is over thirty year's old and still has the same seacocks. Neither has the boat ever had an anode. However, the propeller definitely needs an anode in my case anyway.
 
LONG_KEELER said:
Why not go for better quality tails/seacocks ( Bronze/Gunmetal) while you are at it. E C Smith ,if I remember, do a good range. Check out others also. They don't cost that much more.
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It's all relative, I suppose, but using ASAP's prices as a typical guide, a bronze 1.5" ball valve is £106, whereas one in DZR is only £41. In my book, that's quite a lot more.
 
LONG_KEELER said:
I think you may be right.

I am referring to these http://www.ecs-marine-equipment.co.uk/marine-equipment/bronze-ball-valve-item-5427.html

Perhaps they are DZR . I know we don't like Gate Valves but they do gunmetal for round about the same price. Seems a bit odd.
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Ive recently replaced the toilet outlet and used the cheaper version, didnt consider the more expensive ones as if they last a few years and I have to replace them it will possibly balance out. Just have to keep an eye on them, watch this space. N
 
Yes, bronze are generally twice the price of DZR. You often find that it is difficult to remove the valve without disturbing the skin fitting, so there is some sense in replacing the whole lot. Grinding (carefully) the outer flange off the skin fitting is much easier than trying to undo the nuts!
 
Tranona said:
Grinding (carefully) the outer flange off the skin fitting is much easier than trying to undo the nuts!
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Agreed! That's what I did, using a 4" disc in an angle grinder. Grind until the rim drops off, then wiggle the fitting out. If it's really stuck, close the seacock, poke big rod up the hole from outside, and thump with big hammer!
 
I'm sure VicS will come along shortly who probably knows more suppliers and a bit more.
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Cannot help with suppliers I am afraid.
Just like to add though that when buying DZR fittings make sure that they really are DZR and not "Tonval", an alloy that is also a leaded brass but which was, largely responsible for the near loss of the F.V. Random Harvest off Brighton a few years ago ( Find the MAIB report for details)

All my skin fittings are plastic... well its a plastic boat .. and show no signs of dezincification or other corrosion after 32 years in service. They have all been carefully located where they are not exposed to UV light. :D
 
VicS said:
make sure that they really are DZR and not "Tonval", an alloy that is also a leaded brass but which was, largely responsible for the near loss of the F.V. Random Harvest off Brighton a few years ago ( Find the MAIB report for details)
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Found. Interesting to note that the skipper "...started the electric bilge pump, and diverted the engine cooling water intake to direct bilge suction..."

That's a new one to me - it this a common arrangement on fishing boats ? Has anyone here rigged their sailing boat to do this or do the relatively small auxiliary engine sizes on SBs make that a pointless thing to do ?

Boo2
 
Boo2 said:
Found. Interesting to note that the skipper "...started the electric bilge pump, and diverted the engine cooling water intake to direct bilge suction..."

That's a new one to me - it this a common arrangement on fishing boats ? Has anyone here rigged their sailing boat to do this or do the relatively small auxiliary engine sizes on SBs make that a pointless thing to do ?

Boo2
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Not sure whether this is just tech-speak for 'took the suction hose off and dropped it in the bilge'. With an indirectly cooled engine, which often seems to have a larger pump and flow rate, this is a recognised method of reducing inflooding water level quite quickly. With raw water cooling it would be less effective but perhaps also worth doing.
 
The seacock/filter on my old Stuart Turner set up had 3 positions. Off / Seawater / Bilge with a pipe running to the bilge so the engine could act as a bilge pump. Used to be common in the days before efficient diaphragm and electric pumps - and also boats that by nature leaked and need regular pumping. Bit redundant on modern boats.
 
Back to skin fittings

I would do almost anything to get away from through hull fittings that are threaded along their full length with a massive ball valve wound on the end. I've seen too many snap off due to corrosion or excessive stress causing failure in the thread. Not wanting to promote a product but you cannot beat Blakes type seacocks. I know they are expensive but how do they compare to the value of your boat?
 
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