Brass Keelband

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Old Bumbulum

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I want to protect my teak capping rail from mooring-rope chafe by fitting brass keelband (D section).

As capping rails are curved how does one bend the band to fit without it breaking or kinking?

The stuff seems astonishingly expensive, anyone found a source at sensible prices? I'm in for 16m of 15mm wide band.
 
most times I have seen it used, it's been in ~20cm strips where the warps actually pass over the capping rail. That way you don't have the expense or the bending issues...
 
You give the impression that it is your intention to apply the brass band along the whole length of the capping.
Why? It is usual to apply anti-chafe strips only where they are needed.
 
It can be bent edgeways, but probably not enough to take the tighter radius close to the bow. However I go with those who say it is unusual to do the whole length of the top of the toe rail. I put on brass rubbing strips, some slightly curved 40 years ago in the strategic areas of new toe rails where I experienced chafe on the previous ones. Never felt the need to put them elsewhere.

Yes, it is expensive but if done properly will last a lifetime.
 
No mention/implication was made of covering the full length of the toerail. Even so, what if it was? This is an aberration of readers' imagination.

I merely asked how one bends keelband to fit the curve of the rail. Perhaps I need to ask a boatbuilder instead.
 
Old Bumbulum said:
No mention/implication was made of covering the full length of the toerail. Even so, what if it was? This is an aberration of readers' imagination.

I merely asked how one bends keelband to fit the curve of the rail. Perhaps I need to ask a boatbuilder instead.
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Sorry if you think you have been misunderstood, but it was not an unreasonable assumption to make from your question and the length of band you want.

However I answered your question. Yes you can edge bend it but not very much. So if you are putting it on the top of the toe rail you will not get much bend before it kinks. If you are putting it on the vertical surface then it will bend very easily and you can follow the curve of the hull.

As you see from tillergirl's photos it is common to use short lengths in strategic places. If you want to use brass that is what you have to do because of the limitations of the material you are using.

Suggest you make up your strips doing all the cutting and bending before you drill and countersink the holes for screws.
 
Old Bumbulum said:
I want to protect my teak capping rail from mooring-rope chafe by fitting brass keelband (D section)...
Click to expand...

Old Bumbulum I have at the same issue on my Rival 41C teak cap rail. I use plastic drain pipe, 3" OD type, with about a 1" slot cut out longitudinally. I have various lengths: 6" for the fender lines, 2' for the brest lines and 4' for the springs. The drain pipe is prised apart longitudinal and snapped over the cap rail and then slid into position. I cut the slot too wide on some and they do not sit snug so I have tied them to a stanchion to stop them moving off station. Very low cost, very effective, store easily in the cockpit locker when underway.
 
BlowingOldBoots said:
Old Bumbulum I have at the same issue on my Rival 41C teak cap rail. I use plastic drain pipe, 3" OD type, with about a 1" slot cut out longitudinally. I have various lengths: 6" for the fender lines, 2' for the brest lines and 4' for the springs. The drain pipe is prised apart longitudinal and snapped over the cap rail and then slid into position. I cut the slot too wide on some and they do not sit snug so I have tied them to a stanchion to stop them moving off station. Very low cost, very effective, store easily in the cockpit locker when underway.
Click to expand...

Similar approach - I use hose that has the same construction as spiral wound toilet hose but is something like 3 inches bore. This was very stiff when first bought, so I cut a longitudinal slot in it about 2 cm wide. I have three or four lengths of this that fit nicely over the teak toerail as needed.
 
An engineer can probably help. I asked one to put a 90deg bend in 30mm x 6mm ally, which is very stiff....it came back like a hockey stick, not what I wanted but I should have been more specific! So it is possible. He could roll it between two pieces of flat steel, to stop it capsizing.
 
I've got some 12mm brass that I'll put on both sides of the rail (hence the amount needed) and it looks as though it will bend round the curves - just. A few judicious taps with a ball pein hammer on the outer edges might help stretch it round the bends too. It certainly needs to be curved before drilling though.
Thanks for the advice, and I will stock up on 3in hose - I had a length but forgot to remove it when sailing last month and it washed away. Keelband though is more permanent and a neater solution.
 
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