Bottom paint for lapstrake

[Serendipitous]

I just bought my new project. I have a 1969 Nordic Folkboat that I am taking down to wood on the hull. It is Larch (pine) lapstrake (clinker). So far everything looks fine.... 1/4 of the way done with scraping 40 years away. Providing that I don't find any problems, (one can dream can't he?) what is recommended for the bottom? She will be pulled every winter to work on her, so ...... I want to do this right, that is why it is going down to wood. The inside will get bathed in linseed oil, so I am thinking an oil based paint will work better, dunno. Above the waterlines she is varnished. I will scrape that off this winter and reDo it with an oil-based varnish, haven't decided which one yet. Does primer help the paint adhere or is it more for filling? What paint is recommended that will not be too hard and will move with the wood? The boat will be moored in fresh water and sailed in salt water in The Netherlands (and beyond eventually).

 

[Niander]

Well i decided to paint most of mine as the wood is not perfect.....gota make her rainproof!
yea primer helps the paint adhere.....

 

[Serendipitous]

What paint will move with the movement of the wood. They have no gaps. I need to know what works here. The chandleries don't know. People with plywood boats tell me to CPES it, which I would do if I had a multiplex hull. What works with lapsrakes? I have done searches, but haven't found what is right that I can get here in the EU. I will use modern or old school methods. I don't care. What is right for this boat?

 

[Casey]

Get yourself a Blakes Paint Manual and follow the instructions therein. I did on my clinker built boat and have never regretted it. Blakes are part of the Hempels company.

 

[nmiller]

Teal and MacKrill of Hull do an excellent range called Teamac. They have a web site. Well worth a look.

 

[Spuddy]

Yes, the primer is important. Each layer of different paint type does a different job; the primer binds to the wood and to whatever you put on top. Two coats of primer, rubbed down between coats would be a good idea. Use decent paint and follow manufacturers instructions. Dunno if you know about using glass as a scraper ? All you need to do to get a sharp edge is break it again. Use thick leather gloves !
Friends got a clinker folkboat, like yours. The larch tends to move quite a bit when dried out then launched again, so will take time to swell up and stop leaking. Yes, it WILL leak but don't stuff anything up between the plank overlaps. You might want to ask again about tips just before launching.

 

[Peterduck]

Antifouling paint comes in two main kinds; the soft ablading paint which slowly wears away as you sail, and the hard racing kind where the poisons slowly dissolve. You need the soft kind.
Peter.

 

[Serendipitous]

I'm using a Carbide scraper to get through the layers. Good reminder on the glass part. 20 euros for the scraper vs. free for the glass. Funny stuff wood. 6 layers in one spot and none on another. I know it will leak at first. She has been out of the water for little more than a month. Three months total and she will be back in I hope. I looked at Blake's website. They look like a good company. I will also look for Teamac. I don't speak Dutch, so finding the right stuff has proven to be a small difficulty. Thanks everyone for the replies. As to the antifouling. I will haul out yearly for a bottom clean/paint. I was trying to stay away from the ablative paint. Is the other too hard to move with the wood? Okay, so far paint that moves with the wood are Teamac and Blakes. Are there any other favorites for clinkers? Above the waterline will be an oil-based varnish, so the boot stripe will need to adhere. Also, the inside will get linseed oil and then an oil-based varnish.